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My 5 year project. Coupe quattro Track car!

18K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  DE80q 
#1 ·
So I started this build on a local forum many years ago with the intentions of being just a stock CQ with a turbo added. But it morphed into a purpose built track car with most of the progress on this car has being from the last year. Most of the welding and fabrication was a learning experience for me and the first time ive tried to do something like this (with absence of proper machining equipment and fab tools) so please excuse the lack of perfection. :tard:
on with the pictures

here is the first picture of the car in 2011 when i bought it.


some internals I bought for the engine 83.5mm bore stock stroke nearly 2.4L



Filing the rings



assembled





mostly together, added a Cam sensor on the back of the valve cover to read a single window AEB 1.8t cam trigger wheel I welded to the end of the camshaft. Turbocharger is a precision 6266 with a 17LB wastegate spring from 034motorsport.Manifold is RS2 replica cast manifold with a T3 or T4 flange (cant remember) welded to it. the flange was properly heated and peened while welding with the proper fill rod . I drilled a hole in the 7A block for the drain tube where the factory AAN tube goes. also Added a oil filter housing from a turbo engine that has turbo oil feed and oil cooler setup.



I had a few 01E's laying around . This one needed new syncros for 2nd and 3rd so i tore it down and rebuilt it over the course of a couple weeks. I also sourced some shifter linkage and modified the rod to use with the stock B3 shifter for now. I also did the 4:1 diff mod to it. Im leaning towards buying a CAE cable shifter eventually.



Here is the 60-2 flywheel I purchased for the 7a to 01e conversion and the spec stage 5 clutch that will hopefully hold the power this engine will make.




Im using the RS2 rep mounts from 034 for the 01E to mount to the stock subframe.




ripping out the old engine and trans.






Manual brake conversion




new engine in with track density mounts


now suspension work.

5 lug conversion with ,all new wheel bearings, sandblasted and painted all spindles and strut housings.


lol at my rigged drum lathe setup to cut the hubs down to fit spindles.







sand blasted, painted, installed new boots on all axles.



got a Chevy s10 radiator off ebay to modify for around $150, much better than the $800 ones made for coupe and it has nearly same dimensions.


My friends at 2bennett supplied me the recommended spring rate coilovers and adjustable konis for my suspension setup.


cleaned and assembled



magic camber plates


D2 A8 Brembo rotors and 17Z 6 piston calipers work great up front with some custom brackets from BRYDON ENGINEERING!


b5 S4 vented rears will be fine in the rear


brake pads


only wheels i could find with et25 offset to clear everything. audi allroad wheels :)


now on to building manifold and fuel rail. took for ever to figure out what tools were needed and finding a way to cut everything.


drilling fuel rail with special bit




test fit the manifold after milling the flange and cutting the runners to length. I also mounted a B5 passat 1.8t power steering pump with a v belt pulley and modified the bracket so i could get rid of that behemoth hydroboost pump to make room for manifold.


built a front support brace for the snub mount and intercooler. I also mounted an rx7 oil cooler -10an so i wont have to worry about oil temps.




radius needed to be put on the manifold for better flow.










here is my super crappy weld job. this is my first time really using the tig for more than 5 minutes. took a few hours to get all the runners welded up. :frustrated:





I also drilled and tapped my 7A head for a water manifold -8 an fittings. Ignore my globbered stock flange in the center cast is not easy to weld to be leak free. i ended up having to scrap it and just make a new one out of flat aluminum and a tube. then use a universal gasket to seal it instead of the oring.



The fuel system: Overkill I know... but why not?

-8 feed and -6 return



hmm this might work. while using the stock pump and tank to feed the dual 044 surge tank.




Yes i cut a hole in the rear seat. :eek: this will be covered with a insulated sealed sheet metal panel after the roll cage is installed.



Finished up my megasquirt MS3X ecu. soldered in circuits for VAG low resistance COP for the sequential ignition and injection systems and 4 bar map sensor.




Finished up the radiator setup installed the 500w RS2 fan with shroud and filled the coolant system and fixed the leaks. wired the engine harness and finally fired it up after hours of trying to find the correct settings in the ecu.



started making the exhaust out of 304 stainless












made the intercooler piping and put a BOV on it.


I checked the alignment to see what max negative camber would be. im not going to run that much on the track obviously, but those camber plates worked pretty well.



Took it on its first drive. look at the smoke everywhere lol.


cleaned it up a bit with new trim peices, b4 headlights, fitted the RS2 front bumper. installed hood pins on the b4 hood.


remote mounted battery behind taillights


im going to mount my tablet some how in the dash about here.


have since installed 2 racing seats,sent the cluster off for rebuild at hollywood speedo, installed steering wheel with quick release hub, and removed the dash for preparations for the 8 point roll cage that will be built for it next week.

will update with more pictures after cage is installed and then its off for some body work and painting.
 
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#4 ·
Thanks varia,

I forgot to mention many things. some being I used 034motorsport delrin control arm bushings, and 034 snub mount kit and bracket that i welded to the intercooler support, I had to install a new reman powersteering rack with new tie rods because the original just bled fluid, MSD tach converter, heater box delete, wiper delete, sunroof delete, etc...

was using 1700cc injectors because i wanted to use E85, but because there is a bunch of aluminum on my fuel system i didnt want to let it sit over winter with e85 in the lines because it would corrode. I put 650cc ev14 injectors in and used 93 octane to break in the engine and tune it. may change back to e85 and 1700cc in the future.
 
#12 ·
Can you give some details on the manual brakes - how much is custom, how much off the shelf, parts, did you manage the brake pedal ratio by using a larger diameter Pistons in your master cylinders to handle pedal effort or.... And finally how do they feel (yes I know this is very subjective but...).
 
#13 ·
Great project!

Interested in some details on your use of an S10 radiator, had a browse on eBay and there are some great deals!

What exactly did you modify? I'd guess the forward outlet that's supposed to go to the aux rad? Does it mount in stock position? Does the RS2 shroud mount on without modification or does it take some work? Etc.
 
#14 ·
pry4sno as far as the radiator it was almost too easy. it would fit in the stock location if it wasnt for my custom intake manifold. for the lower mount i just extended it forward 2" with a piece of bar stock as for the side mount i drilled out the factory mount on the frame rail and moved it forward 3-4 " and rotated it a bit for an angle then re welded it. For mounting points on the radiator i took 1"x 1/2" aluminum bar stock and welded one to the bottom tank then drilled and tapped then put a stud in it. The side mount I welded a double stack of the bar stock to the side of the core and drilled and tapped a hole for the stock rubber side mount. as for the outlets they are the same location as stock, but i deleted the auxiliary radiator outlets. so I have the 2 radiator hose outlets and one 3/8" nipple welded for the overflow tank. Then cut 2 squares of the bar stock and mounted a temp sensor for the MS3 in the top. and on the bottom in the stock location i welded square to be drilled and tapped for the stock fan switch. for the rs2 fan shroud it fit just barely, i did modify it on the top and bottom so it sat flush against the core and i drilled holes on the edge material of the core so i could put a nut and bolt through to hold the fan assembly on. so for about $165 I built the radiator. obviously the fan and shroud were not part of that price.

i can get better pictures of it later.
 
#15 ·
Coreyj said:
pry4sno as far as the radiator it was almost too easy. it would fit in the stock location if it wasnt for my custom intake manifold. for the lower mount i just extended it forward 2" with a piece of bar stock as for the side mount i drilled out the factory mount on the frame rail and moved it forward 3-4 " and rotated it a bit for an angle then re welded it. For mounting points on the radiator i took 1"x 1/2" aluminum bar stock and welded one to the bottom tank then drilled and tapped then put a stud in it. The side mount I welded a double stack of the bar stock to the side of the core and drilled and tapped a hole for the stock rubber side mount. as for the outlets they are the same location as stock, but i deleted the auxiliary radiator outlets. so I have the 2 radiator hose outlets and one 3/8" nipple welded for the overflow tank. Then cut 2 squares of the bar stock and mounted a temp sensor for the MS3 in the top. and on the bottom in the stock location i welded square to be drilled and tapped for the stock fan switch. for the rs2 fan shroud it fit just barely, i did modify it on the top and bottom so it sat flush against the core and i drilled holes on the edge material of the core so i could put a nut and bolt through to hold the fan assembly on. so for about $165 I built the radiator. obviously the fan and shroud were not part of that price.

i can get better pictures of it later.
Awesome, thanks for going into detail.

I'd love to see more pics of the rad set up when you have time. And, updates as they occur!
 
#16 ·
Fbatwork said:
Can you give some details on the manual brakes - how much is custom, how much off the shelf, parts, did you manage the brake pedal ratio by using a larger diameter Pistons in your master cylinders to handle pedal effort or.... And finally how do they feel (yes I know this is very subjective but...).
its a whole kit i found here. http://www.compbrake.com/product/au...-pedal-box-kit-hydraulic-dual-cylinder-kit-b/ I would recommend upgrading to the AP racing master cylinders. It was a chore to find the fitting sizes for the cheap masters, and i had to use a halfway incomplete double flare to stop them from leaking brake fluid.
I would ditch the supplied pedal rod (its just all-thread) and make your own beefier rod out of steel tubing and bolts , because mine bent in half when i was moving the car in a parking lot.

so for the pedal feel... its mounted on the stock fulcrum location and is very manageable. the supplied smaller diameter master goes to the larger front calipers and larger diameter goes to the rear calipers. once my track pads get to temperature the stopping is excellent. I have about 20-40% increased pedal effort over stock depending on the temperature of the pad, however I can still lock up the wheels on demand if I wanted.
 

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#18 ·
What are the dimensions of the S10 radiator core?
 
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