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iluvfastcarz's 95 Audi 90 Quattro (Made up my mind, 1.8T)

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 Post subject: iluvfastcarz's 95 Audi 90 Quattro (Made up my mind, 1.8T)
PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:33 pm 
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Hello all my name is Lido. It is my pleasure to finally have my own project thread on Motorgeek. Last weekend I picked up this http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30257
My previous car is this VW Fox that Jonathan and I put together. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rS885tlc0FY
Unfortunately, due to my hunger for more power the car kept breaking third gear in two different stock transmissions and also had a slipping Spec Stage 4 clutch. I was only able to achieve a 12.96 @ 121mph pass down the 1/4 mile.

Plans for the 90 are:
1. Full interior
2. 01E 5 speed transmission (already in my possession)
3. Megasquirt 3
4. I am for sure staying with the 1.8T route.
5. 1/4 mile time in the mid to low 11s

The engine and turbo setup:
Stock AEB head
Scat rods
Calico rod bearings
Eurospec headbolts
Precision 6262 turbo with .63 turbine housing


Now of course I have plenty of questions and will take some pictures tomorrow.

Does anyone have pictures of Audi 90s with front mounted radiators and intercoolers? I can't seem to grasp how the intercooler piping would be routed.

My second question is can someone tell me what plugs/wires I need to keep from the original wiring harness in order to keep the gages in proper working condition (oil pressure, oil temp, tachometer, coolant temp)

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Last edited by iluvfastcarz on Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:32 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:57 pm 
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http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... start=1750 Part way down the page. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 3:19 pm 
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So today I start cleaning up the wiring harness. Tucked away the headlight wires so they are less visable. Cut all of the engine wiring harness, removed ABS system and wiring, etc. Here are some pics. Can anyone please tell me what color wires control the temperature gage, oil pressure & temp gage and speedometer. Thank you!
Image
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Image

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Lido, you're killing me. I can't believe you cut the engine harness. :(

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 8:57 pm 
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Jonathan wrote:
Lido, you're killing me. I can't believe you cut the engine harness. :(
:P

I had no idea what the game plan was for this car but noticed that and thought: "Ouch!"

Sounds like Jonathan gets to pick up the pieces?! :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:05 pm 
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Is this the car from the other thread that didn't run?

-Eric

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:21 pm 
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nismo wrote:
Is this the car from the other thread that didn't run?

-Eric


Yes, the FS thread of the car in the Dayton area. It's a pretty decent-looking car, especially if I am successful in my efforts to get Lido to keep the interior complete.

The harness would have been very helpful in my efforts to build a cheap rallycross car, but that ship has sailed. I guess it's CIS-E Audi V6 after all.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 10:43 am 
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Lol, sorry Jonathan for cutting the harness, at least I am keeping the full interior. :bashtard: I love simple and clean engine bays and all of that wiring made me want to punch unborn babies. Megasquirt is very simple to wire up and none of those wires were needed from the factory harness. I would love to rewire the speedometer, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, and battery voltage gauges.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 2:01 pm 
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I like simple and clean as well, which is why I remove harnesses as whole as possible. This isn't cutting down a tree; it is better to cut only at the trunk and pull everything else out whole.

Oh, well. Like I said, if I buy the engine for the rallycross car, it will just have to be CIS-E.

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 9:59 pm 
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Little update as I have not had the time to do anything to the car. Trying to buy as many parts as possible to achieve my hp level and still keep cost at a reasonable price. I spent $113 on fittings and fuel cell straps today. :bashtard:
Image
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A few last pics of the Fox with the AEB in it. (I am going to miss this car) I felt untouchable from a 40mph roll :(
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 10:16 pm 
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How soon will it be running man?

Take a look at my Avatar sucka! :-D

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:23 am 
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Yea man, done yet? :D

Did this car have Climatronic? Are you keeping it? :-D

My Coupe just lunched it's throwout bearing yesterday, literally right as I pulled in to Forward Air's terminal to pick up my spare transmission for it. :bashtard:

Brendan

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 9:32 am 
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8) watching ....

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 3:20 pm 
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Chris, it won't be running anytime soon (and faaaaaaack your UR Quattro). :-D Probably at least 2-3 months I am assuming (did I mention I hate you). Brendan, sorry to hear about your luck, and yest I am keeping the climate control. The car is going to be a sleeper.

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:06 pm 
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iluvfastcarz wrote:
Chris, it won't be running anytime soon (and faaaaaaack your UR Quattro). :-D Probably at least 2-3 months I am assuming (did I mention I hate you).



Don't be a poor sport....I'll make it up to you and give you a ride in it. :D

When it's all said and done I'm sure your Audi will be faster than my Ur...but it will never ooze nearly as much cool. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 2:54 pm 
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So finally got around to doing some work. I am converting to the Audi 200 one piece front struts in order to do the 5x112 conversion. Also installing coilovers so supporting rings were made for the perches.
Image
Image
Got the fuel cell and fuel pump setup mostly squared away. Decided to leave the trunk carpet in so that I keep the stock(ish) looking theme.
Image
Peekaboo, I love the sound of the two Bosch CIS fuel pumps
Image
Also tore the motor apart, man was I running rich. Here is a comparison of the stock AEB rods next to SCAT rods.
Image

I will try to make more progress on it the upcoming few weeks, although my money is very tight as I am saving in order to buy the GT35/40R from Toxcheap. :-)

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 4:39 pm 
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Good work so far. I hear those perches can be a pain to cut off if you don't have a vise and a grinder. Are the strut housings done? How did they turn out?

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 9:41 pm 
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Jonathan, yes they are a pain. I have seen it done! I have yet to grind the welds from hosings as I am in no rush to get those one there, since I do not have the money to buy tires for the wheels that I bought from you. I did measure the housings and they are 55mm OD, the same as the 90 so I may be able to just fit the 90 struts on there in order to make the strut mounts and bearing work.

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PostPosted: Sun May 23, 2010 10:31 pm 
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Lido,

What wheels did you get?

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:29 am 
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20V 200 BBS 15*7.5 ET35, from me.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:50 am 
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Looking good! Where did you get the support rings? The 90's have the same strut housing as the CQ's right?

Brendan

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 10:59 am 
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Not sure if the 90's have the same strut housings as the CQ. Jonathan made those rings out of some thick piping that he had at the shop.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:33 pm 
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Slice off 1/4" sections of appropriate tubing and weld them in. I have done it this way a few times. It works far better than cutting plate by hand into a round shape and welding that together.

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 7:55 pm 
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90 and CQ should have the same strut housing diameter yes....

and what size pipe was the size you used? honestly it did not take me too long to make the rings i do out of steel flat stock.... and i have made about 4-5 sets. (CRAP!!!!! reminds me i gotta make a pair for a guy!!!)

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PostPosted: Mon May 24, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Cutting them out with a plasma torch is easy. Getting them centered and sufficiently circular for my taste is more difficult. My hand is also not so steady with the plasma torch. You may do better. But slicing off tubing in 1/4" lengths is easy as pie, and the pieces are guaranteed to be round.

Tubing is 3" OD and probably 3/16" wall. The gap between the tube and the housing is not unremarkable, but the MIG fills it in nicely, and the gap ensures penetration.

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