Automobiles Forum banner

AAN engine pull guide?

3K views 13 replies 5 participants last post by  derekste 
#1 ·
is there a guide or a write up anywhere for this motor. im confident in my skills to just go take it apart but was wondering if theres any tricks or anything to make it easier so less stuff needs to be taken apart or anything.
 
#2 ·
What's up you know me from over on AZ.
The AAN is much easier to pull than the 2.7t.
Basically take off the front axles, front of driveshaft,
intake plumbling, slave cylinder line, unbolt motor
& trans mounts, disconnect the shift linkages( theres
one bolt on each rod, put the front end in service position
like the b5 and out it comes with the hoist. If your
dropping the subframe you'll need take off more
front end parts and skip the service position.

Also the same as b5 you have to decide if your
keeping your a/c charged witn the compressor
unbolted or leave it on motor and just evacuate
the system.
 
#4 ·
Chris it's the same on all Audi's & VW's.
You take off the front carrier meaning the
whole front clip. Bumper, radiator, condenser,
etc. Unless your dropping it out of the bottom
then all of that can stay. I haven't read a urs6
service manual but on b5 and newer Audi's/VW's
they refer to taking off the front locking carrier
as "service position". That's factory terminology
not "mine".
 
#6 ·
Bumper has to come off for service position new or old audi doesn't matter. This shows "service position" http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... timing.htm on an s4 so yes Chris there is such thing as service position on a C4 look in the bentley manual there is even factory tool to hold the rad. and condenser away from the front of the motor.

But to the OP that probably isn't enough to remove the motor straight out the front you would need to pull the radiator and fold the condenser out of the way.
 
#7 ·
yodasfro said:
Bumper has to come off for service position new or old audi doesn't matter. This shows "service position" http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_s ... timing.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; on an s4 so yes Chris there is such thing as service position on a C4 look in the bentley manual there is even factory tool to hold the rad. and condenser away from the front of the motor.

But to the OP that probably isn't enough to remove the motor straight out the front you would need to pull the radiator and fold the condenser out of the way.
that piece of sheet metal tool is the factory service tool?
 
#9 ·
#11 ·
thanks guys. and landfill i knew what you meant and i knew the c4 had that service position but its not enough to pull the engine. my biggest question is the c4 is unlike the b5 in the harness dept. the c4 harness stays with the car? i have to unplug all the sensors and what not and fish out the harness.

really just looking for any tips/tricks that might make it easier.
i have pulled the AAN but it was a parts car so i really didn't need to make sure i remember where everything went when it goes back together.

someone put a thread saver in cyl3 for the spark plug so that let loose and tore the thread out with it. so engine rebuild time.

maybe ill start a build thread.
 
#12 ·
No it's more of a pain in the ass to pull the whole harness out on the c4 vs. the b5.
What I did everytime was disconnect all the plugs to the motor. On the c4 it goes through
the firewall underneath the passenger floor board vs. driver side rain tray in the b5.

What I mean is you do everything you need to do to put the front end in service position
but need to go a few steps further. Remove both radiator supports, swing out condenser,
remove radiator, basically the whole front end and then the motor and trans will come
out the front.

As for tricks just do the bare minimum to get it pulled and then any additional work while
the engine's out of the car. I'll give you a list of everything below:

1. take off front bumper
1. Radiator supports
2. Radiator
3. swing out or take off condenser
4. take off the power steering cooler
5. Unbolt motor mounts to subframe
6. unbolt tranny mounts to subframe
7. disconnect slave cylinder line or unbolt slave from trans
8. Disconnect all intake plumbing
9. unbolt a/c compressor from block or evacuate and unbolt a/c lines
10. disconnect all connectors from engine harness at engine plugs
11. disconnect fuel line from filter and return from FPR
12. disconnect power steering lines at pump
13. If leaving lower crossmember take off snub mount & bracket
14. unbolt inner cv joints to transmission
15. unbolt front driveshaft CV to transmission
16. Separate the shift linkage rods. (one bolt in the middle of each rod going to the shift linkage underneath the car in the trans tunnel)

That's really it except not in that order. If your dropping the subframe
you can skip taking apart the front clip. For using a hoist out of the front
you just need to do 1-16.

Trust me the 2.7t is way more of a PITA. If you want some tricks for remembering
part locations and orientations of everything you can take before pics with your phone,
take piece's of cardboard and make a template for all the bolts you remove, You can bag
everything in labeled zip lock bags, and also make labels for all hoses & electrical connectors.
It all depends on what you want to do and are comfortable with doing.

I no longer have an AAN head but I have an already machined AAN block with oversized JE pistons
for sale for a great deal if you're interested.
 
#13 ·
like i said i took one out before. i have pulled way to many 2.7s so they seem easy only because i know exactly what to do. i also label the connectors and small hoses i know i forget and zip lock bagging is always something i do. i hate loosing bolts/nuts/hardware. so sounds good thanks.
 
#14 ·
I used a sawzall, sledge hammer, and crow bar to get the harness from my URS4.

It still was way harder than it should have been - probably made it harder for myself.

If you're just doing an engine swap (like, say, in a race car), the only harness you need is wrapped in yellow cloth tape, and connects the engine bay to the ECU and a small fuse & relay panel in the passenger kickwell. Was easier for me to just cut the cluster out.

I hate tearing apart interiors.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top