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1986 4000 Turbo Project(s)

18K views 79 replies 10 participants last post by  Aidans95audis6 
#1 ·
Been searching for a long time for a clean, straight, alpine white 4000. Well as luck would have it I found not only one, but two. Within a week of each other. One was clean body and a california car that was well maintained but didnt run right, the second was beat up and rusty but had the AAN, 01E, and supporting mods.

The first one is significant because it is all original, totally straight, no rust california car. 156,000 miles approx and everything works and the interior is in really nice shape. Its the Commemorative edition with the red leather and black carpet.

Details:
1986 4000 CS Quattro Commemorative Edition
White/Red leather
156,000 Miles

Edit: 1/28/17 Current build details

Engine:

AAN (stock internals)
440CC Injectors
034 Fuel rail
Aeromotive FP Regulator
stock 3B intake
URQ intercooler
RS2 Exhaust manifold
3" Stainless TIG exhaust, Magnaflow muffler
Factory AAN Harness
Bosch Wideband 02
VEMS Plug and play ECU
Upgraded oil cooler, custom lines

Drivetrain:
RS2 replica mounts (unknown brand)
01E "Wide first" 5-Speed
URS interior parts to retain reverse lockout
034 Short shift kit
Ground Control adjustable coilovers
Koni Struts
16 ATS Type-10 wheels

Maintenance:
Relocated battery to trunk 9/2016
New battery 9/2016
Fuel Filter 9/2016
New Tires 9/2016
New front Ball joints 12/2016
New rear Ball joints 12/2016
New front tie rod ends 12/2016
New front wheel bearings 1/2017
New alternator brushes 1/2017
Oil pan gasket 1/2017
Brake fluid flush 1/2017
Trans Mounts replaced 1/2017

The CE:
Some better pics to follow. This is exactly as I picked it up just after unloading it.






The Turbo Donor:









Current condition pics:

















Engine bay
 
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#52 ·
So working on the wiring some more today.
Went through my stash and found a couple of good connectors, re-pinned a T8 with the proper diameter wires.

The wiring stash


Used an old fuse box to lay everything out.


If all goes well, This plug will replace "B" , the black T8 connector . Then I have plenty of length to run over to the passenger footwell where the AAN fuses and ECU will sit.


The larger connections for L30 , "O", GND to ECU.


progress on the wiring.
I got the first main connections done so far ,
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Black - > B15 in fusebox
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Brown/yellow - > BS in fusebox
AAN Harness "S3 Plug" Blues (2) - > 87A in fusebox
AAN Harness red ring terminal - > L30 in fusebox (+12V)
AAN Harness Black ("87F") -> "0" in fusebox

So I think If I get the ground connected I would be able to run the engine but with no signals to the dash at this point.

I retained 3 of the original wires in the "B" plug- these would be:
-B53C (windshield washer pump)
-B15A (Reverse lights) ,
- B50A (starter solenoid).

 
#53 ·
Swapped in the proper oil pan to facilitate my Radiator fitting on the side.

Only had one stuck bolt and was able to hammer in a torx thank god!!



Since the subframe was out, ball joints, tie rods, now are all refreshed.



Haven't done a refresh of the suspension yet (which it needs badly) because I want to have an opportunity to drive the car first again and see what the spring rates feel like before I go changing it up.

Stock oil cooler has gotta go. All rusted up. Thanks Canada.


Intercooler will go in it's place for now. Stolen from UrQuattro.


Lower pipe made up from stainless 2" with a transition to 2.5"


For the upper pipe I found some aluminum , a charge pipe kit I had laying around. thought I would give aluminum welding a try

So for a first try it's not terrible but these cast pipes are very tough to weld. they are brand new, never seen oil, and I sandblasted them clean and wiped down with acetone - still there were impurities coming out.





Starting to look more like a car. Getting things laid out now. Have some issues to work out!
-The catch can needs to move upward to clear the rad fan.
-Not sure where there is any room for the Ign. Coils (will be running LS2 coils)
-No room for ISV. I was thinking about running without it but not sure if that will be difficult to tune.
-Still have harness wiring to plug in the engine bay
 
#54 ·
PS Pump in place, Comes very close to the 3B intake. Did a little grinding on the edge of one of the bolt holes to get a little more clearance.



Got the oil cooler mounted up on the drivers side of the bay, too tight on the other side.
 
#57 ·
Aidans95audis6 said:
Great work man! I may have a few questions of my own for ya when I get back to my 86.
let me know buddy. I am happy to help.
Working on the ol girl now trying to get her on the road ...


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#58 ·
Well today was not a great day for working on the car.

I thought I would throw in my shifter base that is made to work with the 01E and retain the lock out.
I decided at this time I would install the 034 Short shift kit. Why not?
his setup in the car and tried to align it, (alone which is tough). I tried it out, and had no reverse, no first. All the way FAR left was 3rd. Tried to re align it multiple times and no matter what with the 034 shifter in any configuration I could not get anywhere near reverse or even first. This kind of confuses me because the So I worked on that for a bit. Stock on the right, modified shifter base on the left.


034 shifter installed in (4000/S6) Base


I then installed tdimensions are not very far off between the 034 and stock. Kind of left me scratching my head and extremely frustrated.
One thing I did notice was I have two different lengths here of this rod. Left was in the donor car (4000/AAN/01E) so I opted to switch the stock 4000 one out with this. No change.

At this time I scrapped the whole thing and just put the stock shifter back in place of the 034 unit in the modified shifter base.


At this point I can get 1-5th but it is very very difficult to get reverse. I decided screw it.
I got the car in reverse and just drive around the block, because I have been so frustrated running into all these naggy little issues. I figured just looping around the block would inspire me a bit.
Well I made it about 1/4 mile and the drivers side brake caliper froze up so I had to turn around and come back and have a new problem to fix!
This may be the next thing for me to try adjusting to get reverse.


On the tune
I still can barely get the car to start cold but I think I will be able to work that out, I am trying to find out if the car is either way too rich or way too lean. Today I went out (car totally cold) and tried the following.
*crank for a few seconds normal
*Then (while continuing to crank) pressed the throttle pedal all the way to the floor.
*continue cranking
While doing this I had absolutely no sign of any firing. If I'm interpreting this correctly, this is what I think. Pressing the pedal all the way to the floor cuts fuel(VEMS has this feature to clear a flooded scenario). So I start cranking normal, fuel goes in. If it's too much fuel (too rich) the car will not fire because its above the upper explosive limit. By then putting the pedal to the floor while still cranking, I am now cutting fuel, (if it is too rich) the mixture in the cylinder then has to cross back through this flammability range and it would fire.
So the fact that I had absolutely no firing at that point while cranking would lead me to believe I don't have enough fuel- except for that stepping on the gas also opens the throttle plate and adds more air.
Gonna have to take some time to think about this... and then make some changes and go out and test it, see if I'm going the right or wrong direction.

 
#59 ·
It seems this car is determined to fight me every step of the way now.
I started this morning by bleeding all four brakes, (very soft pedal, almost no brakes). After multiple tries I cannot get a drop of fluid out of the drivers rear.
Moved on for now and bled the other three but I will have to figure out if that rear is plugged or what. other three were fine.
In the front, I disassembled the front left caliper and made sure it was sliding fine on the pins and was not stuck. Will it immediately became obvious why there was an issue there. The rotor was hitting the caliper carrier. The wheel bearing was so badly shot it was basically disintegrated .
click for video->Untitled by patrick clossey, on Flickr
In fact I attempted to install a puller and in the process I was able to just remove the hub by hand.


Trying as hard as I can to preserve everything (no extras of strut housings or hubs), so the next step is to get the old bearing parts off the hub. Managed to get this done with about an hour, a spare set of hands, a torch and a puller.



Step 3, get the strut housing out. Easy enough, these tie rod ends are new, and have not been driven on more than 1/4 mile, and I used never sieze to put them together. I literally spent hours trying to get these off. I tried ever puller, fork, and hammer I had in conjunction with a torch, even an air hammer. no luck. Eventually I just decided to just cut my losses and cut it off so i could get it in the vice.





I eventually had to just center punch it, find a hardened drill bit and drill the entire bolt out.

So thats whats left of the tie rod end, and my patience.
 
#60 ·
Way to persevere! I've had some real bad ones but I never had to drill one out ahaha damn! I ended up buying this :

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-E ... B0002SRH7O

Which makes life much easier. I ground down the longer puller to remove bearing races which works great too.

I'm in the process of going through my front end and my only casualties so far was one tie rod turnbuckle. Since they aren't available separately (not that I could find anyway) I ordered a full tie rod assembly off of Rock Auto for $5.00 then threw away everything but the included turnbuckle.
 
#62 ·
So here's the latest. I was able to get the remainder of wheel bearing out. Took 28 tons on a 50 ton press.
Then polished the axle a little, and also polished the inside area where the bolt goes through. The taper was definitely in the correct orientation.





So now I can throw that back together tonight.
Last but not least thing to do before I can get the car on the road is figure out how to get reverse.
Im thinking this little tie rod that runs perpendicular to the linkage is what is keeping me from getting into reverse easily.
I have not been able to 100% figure out the function of it yet, but its the last thing I can adjust.
Id like to replace the bushings in it but the tie rod itself but it looks like that little piece is 154.00 ( 4A0 711 429 A )

 
#63 ·
Yo dawg, from QW...It's an easy upgrade.

'This is for the "dog bone" shift linkage on the top of the transmission on the Quattro models. It is made up of a steel rod with two adjustable plastic ends. The plastic ends pop onto a ball. One is mounted to the top of the transmission, the other is on the shifter linkage itself. Typically the plastic ends wear out.

These can be replaced with steel ones, available new from McMaster Carr. The part #'s of the steel ends is 9416k79. You will need two of these, as well as a rod to thread them into. That is part # 93275a035.'
 
#64 ·
I am going to use that thank you. Need to upgrade it no matter what but I am still unsure whether that is causing my problem. I don't know what adjusting that linkage will do.
I got a "kit" to repair the main ball and cup where it attaches to the linkage arm so that will compliment this nicely

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#65 ·
So the 4000 is up and running with all forward gears and reverse. Have a couple small bugs to work out but big progress.
I have worked out the issues with the shifter. The setup I have now
-01E trans (5 speed w/wide first)
-Modified stock 4000 linkage
-URS4 shifter lockout plate in the cabin
-034 short shifter

No clearance issues!


Using the shorter rod here


Got both front wheel bearings replaced. They were absolutely toast.
So at this point almost everything is new (besides the struts) in the front end.

Made a little bracket and lined it with foam. This holds the ECU up under the dash in front of the glovebox and is tucked away there out of sight.
 
#67 ·
Re worked the mid section and tucked it up more.
It fits good and isn't rubbing anywhere.


Re-assembled the interior. Have a better steering wheel to go in :) but i had to order the proper adapter and just like evrything else ive ever bought for my car it is apparently coming from the moon on foot





!!!


Digging the way it's turned out.
I didn't spend too much time on the small details because I have something better in the works for this eventually, after I get my URQ up and going.



Will be working on building this engine on the side. new engine will be :

01E "wide 1st"
JB racing aluminum flywheel
Clutchnet clutch
Coated main and rod bearings
EFI Express H-Beam rods
Stock AAN Block honed and decked
Head is gone through with new stem seals ad guides
Ferrrea 6000 Intake and exhaust valves

Also have some other goodies for it like INA breather puck, billet cam gear, a few things here and there
 
#68 ·
Getting the engine together . Got the Piston rings on, Rods in , Pistons and rods in the block. Everything is toqued down and the engine rotates nice by hand .




Got my INA breather on... cool looking piece and will simplify things. I like


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#72 ·
kompressorgolf said:
Did the bid get high enough? Off to a new home?
He bid it right at the actual reserve price in the last 10 seconds. Probably used a snipe app or something . But anyway I feel like it sold for an absolute steal. $6480 I think was the final price .
It has been paid for months ago and still sitting in my shop ! Probably should ask if he still wants it !

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#74 ·
kompressorgolf said:
Ya he stole that bastard!
I think it's a really good deal but of course I built it and spent all the time and money on it- so I'm biased.
In some ways the market dictates what it is worth but I also think when selling a car on ebay people aren't going to bid what they actually might pay or feel it is worth if they had a chance to look at it or drive it before bidding.
 
#76 ·
Viridia said:
Have any more pictures or info you can share on the donor car's radiator setup?
On the front mount setup I can get some dimensions I still have the rad around to measure .
Didn't want to cut he core support on such a nice 4000 but having seen different setups in B2 cars that made for a really cool efficient setup it seemed like

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