The crank is technically fixable (assuming it's not cracked) but why bother? If it was weird rare old schtuff then it'd make sense, but it's not is it?

Bondo the dents and file it smooth and sell it to a Vortexer as a semi-composite race crank

Someone needs to make a performace VWAG automatic, no missed shifts there

oh my fuck.

the crank is just a forged 1.8T crank with the rod journals machined down to work with the one-off custom rods and pistons. definitely not do-able in 2.5 weeks. highly doubt it could be done this year, replicating that setup. not worried about it, goin off the shelf always available parts.

yeah, i seem to have a reputation for breaking things.



and Joey is tryin to talk me into running an IPT trans, S4 Auto. would be cool if it could live. but at the cost of $5k plus, i would rather run the PAR dog-box for the same money.

but it would be cool, launching on a button and and ratchet shifting. set it up to shift on C02, all ya gotta do is floor it and steer and steering hasnt been an issue as of yet here i might add.

F the auto setup. You might be onto something with a gated shifter like others said. Ferrari style

yeah those tip trans are the total suck,

reall all you need is some sort of a catch/latch thatll flap closed

i like the '10 tdi chicktronic..but thats a diff boat all together...damn dude, go big or go home in one piece I guess. haha, a great man once said "you got spunk, kid" you definitely have the required "spunk" for this type of project!

i guess the update is needed?

we added an FSI forged crank to the mix. the girdle "may" be re-usable. the mains "MAYBE" able to take a line-hone and work. all at the machine shop now.

head is getting fixed. they are going to weld and reshape the chamber. gonna replace the exhaust valves cuz there was light tap showing on the heads, looks like the valve relief of the pistons when the timing belt was off 5 teeth. the strong springs probably helped to make a good seal when we compression tested it, but the valves could be bent. no need taking chances. cost will be ~$500 or a little more, to do the re-work chamber # 1, surface, and do the ex valve install/lap in.

oh yeah, i just got finished putting this little item on.

I admire your tenaciousness. I wish I could offer more to see you get this done!

nah, Myke, you got lots you are dealing with right now. just a reply is all good here.

i should fly out there and smack that bitch around a little. (s)he dont know me from Adam....

but i gotta figure out when is enough. i am sooooo far into it, a few thou more is nothing comapared to the grand scheme as far as expenditures and time. took a couple years of my life on and off with this, i am determined to see it thru.

Thats the spirit Aaron. I feel the same way. I might not have spent as much money as you (so far), but its semi-equivalent when you consider that I'm in college!

Now isn't that a cute little chute Looks great man! And Tox if Aaron is going to go bitchslap your brother with the Audi pimp hand, video it because I want to see!


Link to video

Yes that happens after every drag event my car needs new alignment, For your shift problem make aluminum plate with slots some audi rally cars had that option

chute is mounted, now to run the cable.

tested and works













Link to video

Are you going to deploy it each run?

ouch i know its for safety but me no likie ;(

nah. just as a backup in case.

but i will try it out to see if it actually works and deploys correctly.

just watched the vid haaaa it looked like chute birth

Janis, it does not need to be there all the time. look here.... i made the pedestal removable and the least noticeable that i could.

i know i know i just like to hares you

Speeding-g60 wrote:
also want to spend some more quality time with the spare cast control arms for the rear. having issues with the stamped ones and toe-in. visibly toed in hard, and even on the machine. but the car drives straight as an arrow.... so i dunno. i think the ball joint thing is sliding around in the channels.[/quote]


When you use the cast arms on the rear you will alter the wheel base a little. The rear axles centerline will be moved forward. That is all good for weight transfer as it will move weight rearward. You will also gain some rear caster which will aid in straight line stability.
How much rear axle movement up & down is there at the rear? Moving the pick-up points of the rear toe links can change the toe in/out curve. The longer the link the less toe change there is with suspension movement. If you make custom rear links you might experiment with making them as long as possible & making the inner toe link pivot adjustable up & down. You can also use this to "tune" the rear toe change to suit you.
Another trick...Get side pictures of the vehicle at speed going thru the traps & replicate the ride height that you see to then statically set the front & rear toe. This will aid in straight-line speed. Every little bit helps.
HTH, Chris

Chris; i have done some experimenting already with the cast arms in the rear. i think i can pull it off and keep the wheel centered. last i played with it the wheels moved rearward, though.

there is no rear suspension compression really, its gutted out back and there is 900-1000 lb/in springs in it.

i already made custom rear tie rods; swaged tube and heims both ends.

Link to video

HAHA that last video cracks me up!

LOL "Don't poke the parachute"

just wait until i get ALL the pix from this guy...... MAN. these pix give me the chills..... it was dusk, and this was the last pass of the evening. i let my friend Derek take this pass as he got screwed out of it @ Woodburn a few days prior. he got us booted from PIR for this run, BTW. this was a month and a half ago.....

look at the glow of the first pic on the ground under the fire.... these are just such terrific pictures in person on film....