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Anatomy of an over the top headlight setup.

1K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  Jiggle_Billy 
#1 ·


Specs:

Hella Housings
55w/100w H4's
130w H1's
5 relay block (one for lows, individual relays for each high)
6ga lead from battery to pre-relay distribution block

I'm converting my 1989 200tq to an early Type 44 5000 quad light setup. It is ugly, yes. I did it mostly because I wanted as much wattage up front as possible without aux. (think "rally") lights, and going this route is far cheaper than sourcing Type 44 euro lights (which only use one H4).

I'll be using this as my mini-project thread with pictures when I finally get around to doing the swap.
 
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#2 ·
I've got a similar setup on my urq. Works *very* well!

In all reality, with 4 lamp rectangular conversions (especially with higher power bulbs), I think you get *better* lighting that going with the euro setup..

A suggstion: Feed from the alternator, not the battery.
WHy? When the motor is running, elctricity for any loads is *supplied* by the alternator
(but yes, *stored* by the battery. In a 'steady state' situation, battery does nothing)
Alternator is the net supplier of power, so why have the power go from the alternator, to the battery (via stock wiring), *then* to the headlight relays?

Cut out the middleman, and go straight to the alternator..
Also consder two feeds from the alternator of smaller gauge wire (At least for the first bit, then splice to your heavier wire), as they will be more flexible and not put as much stress on the alternator lug (you can then use two lugs)

(I had the lug feeding all my car except the headlights, break off from the alternator by fatigue bending cause by stiff feeder wire at the lug) Headlighs had full power, but rest of car was running on battery. Did you know a MAC 11 will still (sort of) run at 8 volts? Was getting backfires and such, but still kind of ran!)

Also consider fusing each load separately, (as factory) so one failure won't leave you in the dark... :D
 
#4 ·
I haven't fully built the harness yet, so I'll do that instead of the battery.

The relays are fused indivdually, yes.

As for chucking a belt and losing lights: that is false. The battery will still supply power to the post on the back of the alternator, just not very much for very long.
 
#5 ·
pitts said:
If you do that wouldn't you be guaranteed to not have any headlights if you throw an alternator belt?
Nooo... The wiring between the battery and the alternator is a 2 way street. If you dropped a belt, power would still go from the battery to the (non running) alternator power lug, then to the lights.

Really though.. How long you think the battery will hold up, running all 460 watts of 'daylight' out the front of the car? :)

(FYI: If you run high power bulbs in the winter, you *can* crack a lens if it gets a quick thermal shock, like a spray of slush from an oncoming car.. :frustrated:
 
#6 ·
Katman said:
(FYI: If you run high power bulbs in the winter, you *can* crack a lens if it gets a quick thermal shock, like a spray of slush from an oncoming car.. :frustrated:
There's an easy solution to that if you want to get creative...... make a plastic cover for the headlights. Might not be pretty, but it could be functional.
 
#8 ·
why wouldnt you get some other t44 turbo aero housings and modify them?

the glass is only bonded on with some sort of cheap epoxy stuff. some heating and careful work would remove the glass.

you can then make a mold of said glass in any cheap molding compound you can think of, make a replacement lens, hollow out the reflectors and mount elipsoid HID lamps inside?

yes it is alot more work, but the end result is a FAR superior setup in terms of looks, functionality, lumen output, ect.

i completely understand the quick and dirty quad setup and it works very well, but in my opinion the looks are horrible.
 
#9 ·
I ran a similar setup in my 84' 4kq. Onlyt difference was that I used 8Lead to Relay block (Still plenty by my calculation) and 10 or 12ga to each light. Worked great but I still feel the 5ktq H4/H1 Aero Euro's I ran were better. As are the CQ H4/H1 Euro's. Highs on all are about the same. But on the 5ktq/CQ Euro/Aero setups the lows are better definded and seem to put out more light. I think its simply due to reflector size. 5x7 Rectangulars (Sport Quattro Style) also seem brighter on low, again I think because of the greater collector size.

Have fun, and make sure they are aimed correctly please.
 
#11 ·
the_natrix said:
you can then make a mold of said glass in any cheap molding compound you can think of, make a replacement lens, hollow out the reflectors and mount elipsoid HID lamps inside?

yes it is alot more work, but the end result is a FAR superior setup in terms of looks, functionality, lumen output, ect.
kind of like this?

(We put GT3 RSR lenses over the lights when the car did sebring 12hr)



996 GT3 RSR lights for reference:

(note removable lenses)



I thought about it for a while, then the parts arrived, and I saw how much a set of Hella HID's in 55w trim cost.

That being said, the green 997 GT3 was THE brightest car at sebring at night, even brighter than the lighting on the front of WRC cars in night stages. (440w worth of HID will do that)
 
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