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AAN crank pulley differences

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7.8K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Gringo  
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#1 ·
soooo, i thought there was only one, but i guess there's two. long snout and short snout.

i mounted my 60-2 tooth modded by 034 and the engine wouldn't turn over :wtf: the back side is touching my oil pump. luckily i still had my original AAN pulley laying here and i measured... 10mm snout on the 054-105-251-J (which was sent to me), and mine is a 054-105-251-C

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any words of advice here... it throws belt alignment off as well as the no-rotating issue :p

they are otherwise identical
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#2 ·
I checked KATE- 054-105-251-J comes back as the correct part number for any AAN engine. Then I searched on your P/N (-C). It comes back as superseded by 054-105-251-H on 2/28/96. Checking -H shows that it was again superseded by 054-105-251-J (with a washer, 034-105-193) on 8/31/96.

So, at some point in 1996 they went to the short snout part, (-J), and to get it to fit properly you just need to add the washer. The washer part number comes back as currently available at the usual suspects- it's not cheap, (~$65 is the best price I found), but it should fix your problem.

What's the build date on your AAN? You should let 034 know because the dates above would seem to indicate that almost all NA AANs should have the -C or -J part, since most the S6s and all of the S4s were built before 8/31/96. The only exceptions would be later build Canadian 97 S6's. It looks like both the -C and -H will need the washer, so almost anyone that is trying to use 034's replacement -J balancer will run into the same issue. 034 should be able to replicate the washer/spacer for a lot less than $65 and include it with the -J.
 
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#3 ·
I found this with 7A pulleys as well. The one I got from 034, old style welded ring, the snout was shorter than my original.

In talking to Javad, he said use a large spacer/washerI think it was supplied by them actually, been a while) behind. I think I ended up running without one because it still mounted ok, although closer to the oil pump than my original. But yeah, I thought that was weird.
 
#4 ·
I currently have my S6 apart as the "H" version balancer that was on my car failed (rubber part disintegrated). I got my hands on a "J" version balancer and before putting it back together realized that the washer would be necessary, part is on it's way and it should arrive Thursday, I'll take some pics of it once I get it.
And yeah, $65 for a washer is a bit ridiculous, of course my local dealer told me $125 and it was special order. :roll:
 
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#5 ·
Yeah I think I sold you the j version, sad that you paid more for the washer then for the balancer and pulley. That seems so odd to me... isn't the j version the longer snout? Why would you need a washer with it if the other is shorter? Or do I have that backwards?
 
#6 ·
-J is shorter- that's the problem. It's not completely clear from Derek's post, but I'm guessing the back of the pulley hits the oil pump housing. The washer spaces it out enough to clear.
 
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#7 ·
Yep, J is shorter, when the J balancer/pulley is bolted to the crank gear you can see a gap between the "key" on the gear and the balancer. On the H version I had the "key" is right against the balancer, no space. Thus the need for a really expensive washer to line things up properly. this will make more sense when I get some pics to go along with the explanation.
 
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#10 ·
ha, i'm not paying $65 for a washer, and i'm not too keen on running a non machined washer because of the possibility of crank pulley wobble... which would cause #1, an imbalance, and #2. for it to run "out of round" for the VR sensor to possibly have problems reading it.

i'll just get the proper pulley :) i've got enough other stuff i've made work and had to fiddle with, i just want to bolt on the right damper.

note to 034... put a notice by these pulleys for future orders so the right one gets sent out 8)
 
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#11 ·
Derek, what wobble, you're gonna clamp the fvcker to 250 ft-lb between the pulley's inner core and the crank. I doubt you'd get any imbalance from that. More will come from the worn out rubber insulator. Just ensure that its thickness is even all around. Besides, a little lateral run-out won't affect VR signal pickup, at least not IME.

I remember watching my pulley, or at least 60-2 ring walking good 2+mm and car purred like a kitten with a steady WDBG reading.

But I do agree that 034 should pay attention to this stuff, no matter how small it may seem.
 
#13 ·
Instead of buying a new balancer (over $500, more with the washer) there are a number of sites that rebuild balancers for around $100. It shouldn't be rocket science as long as the parts aren't damaged- all they really need to do is clean the parts carefully and silicone them back together.

Some sites:

Dale Manufacturing (owner gets extra points for building a tube-frame 917 replica) http://www.dalemfg.com/harmonicbalancer_018.htm

Damper Doctor: http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant2/m ... y_Code=HAR

HTH-
 
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