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hey theremy name is Corey. ive got the same car except mine is a 1988 and is stock expect for the sound system and racing harness for safety reasons in regaurds to the lack of airbags. Im living in New York on Long Island and want to know if you can point me in any directions of where to get started with this car. I have done buisness with Chris at Force 5 for replacements parts. I have three main issues that must be fixed with the car first the electical system that seems to drain everytime i use the heat of rear defroster, the paint b/c its on its last leg, and of cousre the head lights b/c i want to see at night. HELP please!!!

BTW you have very clean ride. (id take it any day of the week)
 
Discussion starter · #183 ·
SteveAngry said:
I think this project is cursed, seriously. Nothings been going smooth lately.

Steve
it's the a6 your driving... the 5k is jealous
 
yep id have to agree with that. i had the same thing with my 5000cs tq when i was driving my allroad (good thing it was a lease).
 
FYI regarding that mc2 short block you have with pistons that are a bit TOO proud, the last time i talked with scott mockery about squish clearance, we were thinking maybe a diesel head gasket could be used to dial in clearance since they can be bought in different thicknesses. i never looked into it but if the bore diameter is right and the other stuff lines up maybe it would be perfect for you.
 
Discussion starter · #188 ·
I just noticed this the other day. Runner #2 is totally caked with a black film. I can't tell if it's oil or carbon.

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My first thought was maybe a injector was stuck on but the manifold is before the injector so that can't be it. Could it be a leaky valve seal that caused this?

For those you haven't been following my soap opera, I was having very bad oil smoking at idle. Any BTDT?

I did recently have the head tested and new valve seals put in. The guides and valves speced out.

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #189 ·
No one have any ideas?

Steve
 
Something maybe warped. even if the seals are new, the part that is warped maybe letting oil through

so heres what im thinking when the engine is cold the metal is contracted and any spaces are or gaps are open. when the engine warms up the spaces and gaps close creating a good seal.

What i need to know is this only happening at idle at start up before the engine is warm and did you use that red die to check for cracking.
 
is not there an emission related hose or something the plugs into the manifold about right in line with number 2 cyl? i would guess that is causing this tracing and i would guess everybodies engine looks the same way or there is an issue related to that hose and that is your oil consumption problem. i am just throwing ideas out there :) but this is off the top of my head so check it out for yourself to confirm.
 
Discussion starter · #192 ·
Update time...

Drove out to Ohio and picked up Eric's freshly honed and tanked MC short block:
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Cleaned up and freshly ringed pistons:
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Dropping the pistons in:
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Pistons in:
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Box of powdercoated goodness:
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Got parts?
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New oil switches, thermostat, idler, water pump, etc...
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More later...

Steve
 
Steve you've had this car a while now, so it's nice to see you're continuing with it and not giving up or moving to another project
 
Discussion starter · #200 ·
cuatrokoop said:
Hey Steve, the one pressure switch you replaced drives a VDO oil pressure gauge...I'd run a gauge if you aren't, especially on a fresh rebuild...That's why I gave it to you instead of keeping it as a spare :wink:
Yeah, I wasn't sure if it worked or not.

I had new switches anyways and figured I'd throw them in for now and shop for a gauge in the meantime.

If you're sure it worked, then I'll most likely look for a used VDO gauge from a B3 or something and use that to monitor oil pressure during break in.

Steve
 
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