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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Got the car towed today and did some work View attachment 3 View attachment 2 intake gone and took the time to put a power bar on the crank bolt and unsized the engine, she cranks over but I have no intrest of startind it. View attachment 1 got to like those snake skin lolThe bumper is in good shape no cracks
 

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Hybrid_Hatch said:
it theoretically should not interfere with the turbo, the stock aan oil return line would not work with it and so an s2 oil pan or other provision would need to be made for the oil return line. the compressor should fit i'm worried about some of the other hard lines that are used which i might have to have made out of rubber to make it work.
I am in the same boat on my project - AAN motor into a Coupe, and I plan to use the 7A balancer, pulleys, PS, Alt, and A/C. Don't feel like sourcing an ABY / S2 oil pan - already bought a lot of stuff from the UK and it's starting to get expensive.

What would the best location be to drill & mount a new return line? I just took a look - the A/C bracket from the 7A basically uses the same bolt holes on the block as the oil return line flange from the AAN. So the oil return hole will need to be blocked off on the AAN block and a new one created.

Looks like the easiest route would be to use the 7A oil pan, and then drill & tap the return line fitting into the 7A oil pan "extension" using the 034 7A Turbo kit approach.

Any other thoughts? I wasn't originally planning to use the 7A oil pan but that's an easy swap.

Smitty
 

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you "need" to use the 7a pan for it to clear the side mount radiator, and yes drilling and tapping is an acceptable and perfectly functional setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I install some new brakes on my parts car View attachment 8
A la Flinstone anyone :lol:

Finally got around and cut the floor of the donor car, got less time now that I gone back to work (two weeks vacation) View attachment 7 View attachment 6 Just one little hole not bad for a 22 year old car, we eastern Canadian like our road salt in winter. View attachment 5 View attachment 4 View attachment 3 Now the fun part, having to drill the spot well with a spot well cuter to separate the floor from the frame and after I put the floor in I'll get a floor repair kit to treat all of the floors. View attachment 2 View attachment 1 Took the head off too, it looks realy clean, no sludge!
I may use this head on the AAN with mods of course, we all know what happen to mine :frustrated: Also keeping the manual air box, it seem that a lot of you don't like the auto climate control???
I never used one so I don't know the difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
what I planed of doing is cutting out a grove in the A/C bracket and just slide it over the oil line with longer bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
View attachment 1 Work on it last evening took me a few hours to drill and carefully pry the frame off, over all really satisfied of the results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I went down to NH this passe weekend pick up some parts, 4kq propshaft, A4 diff flange, allroad shifter,and a front sub frame
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
well did some work today, weld in the floor View attachment 2 View attachment 1 even had some enough metal from the old floor to patch my the hole in the replacement floormy welding skill are not very good but it is nice and solid, good to see a floor in it and not look at cement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
well the time has come for me to put the car away for the winter, may do some work on the engine, drill the holes for the water manifold and valve job
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
so woken up the coupe after a long winter. did a lot of work on it just have hot keeping up with the post
View attachment 10
7A wiring harness out
View attachment 2
I assume that the big red wire is for the alternator, may have to remove it from the harness to use it with my AAN harness. I could not find a ABY harness.
View attachment 9
View attachment 8
View attachment 7
The rear hatch and the doors are removed.
View attachment 6
So is the rear suspension and sub frame.
View attachment 5
View attachment 4
View attachment 3
It has seen it's better days, all the bolt came out expect the ones for the sway bar and the rear tie rod on one side is rotten out. so I'm in the hunt for a replacement so if you got one laying around PM me!!
View attachment 1

I spot some things wrong on the rear end, regular metric bolts.
On the bright side it look like the it has been rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
the front hubs 5 lugs a la URS4 machine to fit and painted
View attachment 1
should have the rears done next week
 

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nice rotisserie... easy way to do it inexpensively :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
sure does help to do the work underneath did all the de-rusting and a welded in a few patches she ready for paint after I take the bolts out of the center bearing holder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Had a little time on my hands last night so I went ahead and machined some spacers for of 5.5mm for my big blacks



Amazing what 8 weeks of education as an industrial mecanic can make you do, wotk a laith.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
View attachment 2
Well had to try those spacers they work perfect
View attachment 1
The caliper centered could have not asked for better still need some cleaning and new rotors very happy
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·

My next paint job is waiting
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Got some painting dome today
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Well I haven't posting for a while but been doing some work View attachment 2
Just need to get the subframe bushings View attachment 1
Control arms painted just need to put in the bushings
Been painting the underbelly too. Once that done I ordered some brake and fuel tubing, will form and install them
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Ok so been working hard on the car the last month.
The engine bay has been derusted and painted

Now wait for subframe bushing to start putting the suspension back together
 

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