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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Sweet. Got them and quattromog's mount savers. Just need to figure out how to get KW's state side.. Wish I could get V2's, Verkline seems to just have V1's. They have "950kg" and "951kg+" which I .. guess.. doesn't matter?
 

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there is no V2.

KW 1 or KW3. you should go with the 951+kb
Verkline would ship it to the USA, however price went up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
varia said:
there is no V2.

KW 1 or KW3. you should go with the 951+kb
Verkline would ship it to the USA, however price went up.
Oh, they don't make a V2 anymore? Or maybe just not for this model. You think 951+? I know the sedans barely weigh over 3000 lbs, but I guess if I have a car full of people?
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
jbrentd said:
I guess that's the ad from when the OP bought it?

With regards to AC, does it still have the AAN serpentine belt setup? Or converted to v-belts?
Yup - that is the original ad. It has vbelts from my understanding. We're still trying to figure out the logistics of AC... doing the dashboard replacement/heater core/new cluster this week... Just got some KW V1's on order (hopefully)... those are big priorities now. Hopefully AC at some point.. but seems like a bigger challenge.
 

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If your current AC dryer is in the engine bay (on the passenger side frame rail), you'll need to relocate it. Mine will be mounted in the fender using an ABY (I think) Dryer to Evap hose (p/n 8A0260740AE).

Not my picture…

 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Unfortunately I think everything is missing from my engine bay for the AC. It'll be a full custom fab job I think. We will figure out when we rip out the dash if the.. I think evaporation cannister? is in the dash? But I don't think I have a compressor or condenser in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Got a new cluster... had to frankenstein it together a bit with the old cluster, but no more shorts in it, and I now have a working clock! Gas gauge light and right side of the speedo lights are out, I'll have to dig up what the bulbs are to replace them.

Battery is still dying within about a week.. had to jump it twice this last week. I can't figure out what is draining it. I pulled the radio but put the radio fuse back in. No dome lights were on... dunno what else would be doing it along that fuse line, but that was the one drawing the most current when it was off.

Hoping to do headlights this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Threw in the Depo H4 headlights today... gotta say.. they aren't working out great so far. There were clips broken/missing, and stuff was definitely not very aligned. Also.. got them installed.. and the low beams are pointed very high, like above road height. Adjustment screws don't seem to move the lights. Wondering if I got jipped on my pair.. will do more investigation in the daytime tomorrow. My dad had an old set of H4 helle lights that we were comparing them to and they really seem sloppier/no cut off. They look great in the daytime though! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Had a few gremlins with the headlights, got them sorted this weekend (mostly). Still have to adjust aim, but finally got low beams working, relay overridden so they don't beep at me, and relay kit installed. Nice bright lights!

I am still trying to diagnose this parasitic battery issue. My Fuse for "Reading lights, luggage compartment, cigar lighter, interior lights, make-up mirror, Board Computer, radio, clock, auto climate control, alarm system" still is drawing .3 amps, and when I pull that fuse, I'm dropping to .1 at the most. I've already removed the radio, fixed a broken door-open plunger on the drivers door, and confirmed none of the dome lights are on. Any good ideas on how to investigate further? Hoping not to have to check wiring on every single piece of this fuse, since it's such a busy one. The cigarette lighter doesn't work with a phone charger, wondering if I should just replace that? Any ideas?

Next step.. bumper. Need to stop that thing from rubbing. I don't think it will matter much until the suspension gets replaced, but I am sick of hearing fiberglass on tires every bump.
 

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One starting point is to see if there are any changes from the factory setup.

Two main offenders are
1) aftermarket radio installs. The factory radio had constant power. Aftermarket radios need a switched input and depending on where this was pulled from, can cause parasitic draws

2) aftermarket alarms/keyless entry. This usually involves splicing into the factory alarm/central locking system, and can similarly lead to parasitic draws.

Next step would be to go through the wiring diagrams to see where each portion of that circuit can be interrupted to further narrow the diagnostics. Makes for good bathroom reading.

If the cigarette lighter doesn't work, then that whole circuit becomes suspect and warrants investigation. Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
jonas-k said:
One starting point is to see if there are any changes from the factory setup.

Two main offenders are
1) aftermarket radio installs. The factory radio had constant power. Aftermarket radios need a switched input and depending on where this was pulled from, can cause parasitic draws

2) aftermarket alarms/keyless entry. This usually involves splicing into the factory alarm/central locking system, and can similarly lead to parasitic draws.

Next step would be to go through the wiring diagrams to see where each portion of that circuit can be interrupted to further narrow the diagnostics. Makes for good bathroom reading.

If the cigarette lighter doesn't work, then that whole circuit becomes suspect and warrants investigation. Good luck!!
Oof lol. There is no aftermarket radio and I have actually left the OEM radio out this whole time so nothing is drawing power from the radio. There is also no aftermarket keyless entry of any kind.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Welp I am giving up on the Depo headlights. Put the OEM ones back in. The depo's were completely unable to be adjust up or down and were aimed almost straight up. I disassembled them and the mechanisms for aiming were completely loose and barely held together. There were also multiple pieces of plastic busted off internally that should have been there to hold the assembly tight. The whole reflector was loose in the housing, and the clips on the outside were missing pieces for the side indicator lights to clip to. Not sure if I just got burned from some knockoffs of the knockoffs or what.. but that was a frustrating two weekends trying to get them working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
So my fuel pump is starting to die. Getting some stalls and it's making a racket. Does anyone have suggestions on whether I should use an oem pump for the 20v? Or an upgraded pump for the AAN? I'm not planning on building tons of hp, just some minor upgrades so I don't expect to need Bosch 044s or something
 

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Any chance you can cobble the two headlights together? Maybe use the back plastic housing and the adjustment rod/gear and the guts and lenses of the Depos?

For the fuel pump, a decent ramen budget option is the 90 sedan pump. Pretty sure they flowed a bit more for the 2.8 v6.

Realistically though, a DW pump will fit into the basket and supply enough for a mild to moderate build for a reasonable price.

https://shop.efiexpress.com/products/de ... _fuel_pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
PRY4SNO said:
Any chance you can cobble the two headlights together? Maybe use the back plastic housing and the adjustment rod/gear and the guts and lenses of the Depos?

For the fuel pump, a decent ramen budget option is the 90 sedan pump. Pretty sure they flowed a bit more for the 2.8 v6.

Realistically though, a DW pump will fit into the basket and supply enough for a mild to moderate build for a reasonable price.

https://shop.efiexpress.com/products/de ... _fuel_pump" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I actually found a set of Hella's for $50 more than I paid for the Depos... sadly.. on a german parts site. Supposed to be here Friday. I will see how big of a difference they are.

For the DW pump - that is an in-tank pump? I'd have to re-rig the fuel lines up through to the tank? I know mine is under body right now.
 

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Your best bet for the fuel pump is an 044. I didn't really need one either, as I'm only making around 300hp on my 10vt, but it's a direct replacement with me real guess work.

As for the headlights, you will notice a huge difference in quality, and light output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
DE80q said:
Your best bet for the fuel pump is an 044. I didn't really need one either, as I'm only making around 300hp on my 10vt, but it's a direct replacement with me real guess work.

As for the headlights, you will notice a huge difference in quality, and light output.
I hear the 044 is loud? I guess mine is fairly loud too but only cuz it aint workin right haha.

Honestly the DEPO's with relays were plenty bright. they just were so busted they couldn't be aimed. I'm hoping the Hellas are legit.
 

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The 044 does make some noise, but that how you know it's working haha. Anyways, if you can find an inline pump rated to your expected HP output, then you can use it. You just need one with the correct fittings for either end.

The light output comment was over the DOT headlights.
 
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