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I have both a Eurovan short block and a 3B short block. Should I go with the big crank or the small one? This is going to be a 20v turbo engine and I'm hoping for 500+ hp.

Thanks,
Justin
 

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Hey Justin, a couple issues with the EV block. Depending on which one you have, it likely has either a 9 or 10:1 compression (in 10v config, but might be perfect for a 20v head), both too high for turbocharging IMO. Also, that block doesn't have piston oil squirters, which is nice to have in a turbo motor. Also, its a taller block, so you gotta find a new timing belt to make it all work, not a huge deal.

Assuming you get it all together and running, it will be a tourqey motor, those rods and pistons are not the strongest, actually probably the weakest of any of the 10v motors. If you want to make above 400hp its definitely recommended to use some good forged pistons and rods, but the EV could easily be a fast spooling, 300-350hp crank motor. If you want to make big power, you'd better build up that bottom end and flow that head, since peak HP is really determined by the head, not the bottom end displacement.
 

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Any way to make a large displacement motor out of a 3B shortblock (or similar) with a EV crank and 83mm bore?

I'd really like to do something like this too
 

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you need the EV crank to really get more displacement.
 

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I've sort of found a crank :)

now I really want to know what block to use, I'm not feeling uber good about the EV block right because of the tall deck height and lack of oil squirters :(

Any good suggestions on block?

I'm fairly certain I'm going with a 7a head and port and polishing + valve grind + whatever else is a good idea. Any good suggestions on IM and what to do with it?

Once again, home made EM ... turbo suggestions, I might (lol) run with a K24 for a while I think - hehe, have boost come on full at like 2400 Muahahaha... :D

I'm fairly certain i'll run with 7A cams and not do anything to the valve train other than replace everything with newer better stuff? <-- Suggestions here as well?

I'd really like to know a shopping list so I can start saving, I want to build this motor so bad, and take all of winter to do it - but I'd really like to have ALL the parts for this motor before winter comes around again (fairly soon here in Calgary)

:)

- Rasmus
 

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JShadzi said:
those rods and pistons are not the strongest, actually probably the weakest of any of the 10v motors.
Not to argue with "the man" but I disagree. The pistons... yeah they're probably not the right ones for the job. They are tall, with a deep dish and tall ringlands like an MC piston, but whatever. I'm here to talk about rods.

These rods are beefy, and they should be as they are borrowed directly from the TDI/IDI motors of the era. They are 150mm length with the large 24mm pin. They are also shuffle-pinned at the rod cap, cap-bolted not through-bolted, and not riffle-drilled either (solid body). They have more meat in them than any other VAG rod I've ever seen.

Here's a photo of said rod (with piston still attached). The only other rods I have lying about now are standard 144s. Thats a meaningless comparison right now. I have no MC rods about to compare side-by-side. Anyway, you can see that the cap-bolt design leaves a lot more material around the top corners of the journal where the through-bolted rods have a weak spot. The rod:stroke ratio is still pretty abyssmal though, 1:58:1 on the stroker crank (compared to the MC 1.57:1).



I contend that the Eurovan block, crank, and rods are an excellent starting point for a turbo motor. Adding the oil squirters is possible, and the block comes with a lot of turbo features such as the oil return port already drilled out and the freeze plug with the water bung like a 10vt. The Eurovan used the oil return port for the dipstick tube and the water bung for the water feed to the oil/water heat exchanger. Some other things to consider - the Eurovan block also uses 12mm head bolts (just like the diesels) compared to the 11mm in most 5 cyl. It's a good block. I'm hesitant to part with mine the more I talk about it here!
 

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Damnit, I wish it wasn't 500 bucks for shipping! :)

lol

- Rasmus
 

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yeah, too bad i'm going v8..... oh well, all those 32valves and torque and sounds will probably make up for not having those features :p
 

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billzcat1 said:
JShadzi said:
those rods and pistons are not the strongest, actually probably the weakest of any of the 10v motors.
Not to argue with "the man" but I disagree...
Well, damn, you're not disagreeing with me, I've never seen that rod/piston combo, but as you say, its clearly the beefiest NA rod I've seen in a 10v.

When I was at Eurospec developing the stroker kits, we sourced a Eurovan motor and took it apart, can't remember the engine code specifics (was like 6yrs ago), but it was nothing like the rod you show. Any idea what engine code that motor you have is? Very good info.
 

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JShadzi said:
can't remember the engine code specifics (was like 86yrs ago), but it was nothing like the rod you show.
:eek: He's OLD, man! And VW kept the Eurovan from us for so long!
 

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djpdex said:
JShadzi said:
can't remember the engine code specifics (was like 86yrs ago), but it was nothing like the rod you show.
:eek: He's OLD, man! And VW kept the Eurovan from us for so long!
Whoops! Edited :)
 
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