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200 10VT FWD 5 Speed

1235 Views 12 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  dspl1236
Hello All, its been many years since I started a project on here.

I picked up a 1989 200 10vt FWD 5 speed swapped car. Was featured on a YouTube detailing channel. A buddy texted about it and I immediately said No, i just bought a mk2 gti in boxes.... I do not need another project.... Found the youtube..watched it and slept on it. The next morning, I was like ok I'll do it. Shortly after I was winching the 200 into the garage.

Plan is to make it road worthy again. From my understanding it has sat for 14yrs and from dates on the "new" parts it looks like the auto to manual swap was in the 2005-2008 timeframe. Car is from the Cleveland region. I would love to know more about its history.

It did start and run but almost all the electronics would not come on.

youtube of the detail

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Will be interesting to see what all you find wrong with it. I do love me a good 10vt!

On a different note, if your looking for parts for the 90q at all, let me know. I have a ton of b3 parts around.
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Thank DE80q I maybe hitting you up.

So it looks like the procon10 cable grounded with the battery line....and the ABS relay was melted as well..

Clutch line was rusted, swapped in a stainless braided line. Fixed the last leaky section of fuel line that wasn't already stainless.

Went for a test drive and could not find 1st or 2nd gears.... 016 link bushing is completely gone. I had some 910 nylon for 3d printing and just so happen to find a 3d model so I clicked around and printed a few off.

New tires mounted, ordered new control arms, tie rods, sway bay bushings, brake pads, and some Verkline aluminum sub frame bushings.

Took a chance on new fwd 5 speed '89 100 CVs. Seem to be the same spec as the 5000 axles but with ABS rings. I am 100% assuming this is a 5000 016 as the clutch slave is held in with a pin.

Has 276mm rotors with ATE calipers. Wheel bearings are shot too. Still need to figure out what hubs and bearing sizes this car has.

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Compression test after running the engine for 20min 1=>5
145, 145, 150, 85, 155.

kinda hoping there is a sticky lifter or valve... runs quite quietly....
The 85 on cyl4 is concerning. If you have a bore scope, I would take a look and see if anything looks suspect. It's not like these engines weren't prone to knocking or anything...

As for the wheel bearings, I'm pretty sure the fronts use the pretty typical 82mm bearings. Not sure how the rears are on a front track though.
Are you from the Cleveland area by chance?
Got it all apart. Its running 82x42 bearings, Auto hubs, 5k axels,5k fwd trans.

I have not scoped the bores yet.

ZG86, I am south of Cleveland in Akron.
Did it come with the center caps for the basket weaves? If not, I may have some. I'll have to look if they are silver or pearl though.
Did it come with the center caps for the basket weaves? If not, I may have some. I'll have to look if they are silver or pearl though.
it did not, I was starting to look on ebay.
Got the subframe and strut hub assemblies cleaned and epoxied up.

Verkline T44 subframe bushings
034Motorsport Track Trans mounts - already had a few sets of these
Re-Man 100 FWD CV's
Wheel bearings pressed in. Will need new 5x112 hubs in the future as they are quite worn.
New 18mm ball joint/control arms
New front rotors and Pads
New tie rods. The car is missing one 'pinch' washer. Just had a jam nut against the taper...not certain if that is really enough?

I was briefly off track and test fitting A/S8 280mm rear rotors as front rotors and swapping everything over to the ATE G57 calipers.... but I had to refrain from complicating things haha.

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Just need to rebuild the shifter linkages.
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So, is there any known solution for the 016 cross linkage? This seem to be a shared part across the UrS world as well. 431711429B

I see the ball size is about 9.8mm. 133mm center to center. Kinda was looking into the RC world of turnbuckles to replace this. Before I do anything...maybe something already exists?

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Back on the ground again. Still has some really looooooong cranking times. About 5-6 key cycles before it catches. Intake air temp sensor wires are broken....I am sure that is a huuge part of the problem.

Made a temp linkage from 2x 10mm window/hatch strut ends and 2x 6mm bolts welded end to end. Frankly it works really well. Snaps right into place and holds firmly. I would like to make a little jig once I find some better rod ends and a turnbuckle. Too bad 034 or someone doesn't make these already....

Alternator is still not charging. Hopefully it's just the voltage regulator. Fan relay under the dash was melted and seems as the wiring in this circuit maybe melted as well. May need to be a spring/summer project for that one.

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After trying a few alternators I had laying around... all of them are dead. Picked up rebuilt 90amp one and worked.

Needs some more electrical TLC but I will do that in the spring/summer. Off to storage it goes.

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1 - 13 of 13 Posts