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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I really never saw this coming, but I'm starting a new build thread!!!

So, here's where we are at:

2004 Boxster S 85k miles purchased
Cutting out dented panels and generally cleaning stuff up and see what I have to work with.
Have made contact with a guy in Oregon who will sell me a '57 Oval Rag body and some later doors that I'll be fileting within an inch of it's life. Take heart that this body has already been stitched together at some point, so I'm not cutting up a complete car.

Here's some of the damage:









Some motivational reference:



The one with the red decklid is the one I've got my eye on, I'll be replacing all sheetmetal with fiberglass from CCC.







Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I purchased KW V3 coilovers for her. Did a lot of head scratching and the cost/value ratio was just too good to pass up compared to competitors.



Got the inner panels cut out of the bug, and got the whole thing ready to go onto the frame table





Unfortunately, the wheels on the frame table are not rated for enough weight, they are barely up for the weight of the table, let alone a 3000lb car. So that was a big waste of time. I'll get some better casters for the table and also I think the legs should be triangulated so they don't fold in if it hits a bump moving it from shop to shop.



Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I looked and looked and looked for a special Ghia at SEMA 2013, no dice. I even found the exact spot the pics were taken at but no trace. Looking at the pics some more, they grafted Ghia panels to the Boxster, while the Boxter stayed largely in tact.

I found the build here!

http://www.transloggt.com

That would have made my job a lot more simple, but the lines of a bug are hard to duplicate, as Volkswagen has learned now with the new-new beetle. I saw the APR one there, it is very understated for having 500hp.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I probably could write a little how-to now, getting very close. Still have some major hurdles to overcome like moving the steering column to the right a couple of inches...





Some more motivation...



Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Last shot of her before she goes next door to Nor Cal Sand & Off Road owned by Eric Jenkins. His forte is offroad, but he's a heck of a fabricator and I need a chassis, so that's a good mix.

Here's the last shot of her:



I had to leave 1.5" between the bottom of the body and the chassis bottom, I simply didn't have any more room at the top of the fender for the strut tops. As it is I have some grinding to do before the fenders will be low enough:





Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This turned out to be one of the largest problems I didn't even realize I would face. Turns out the steering wheel needed to be moved to the centerline by 3.25". Well, also turns out the steering column and the pedals are one unit. Also turns out the steering shaft is sitting very near the gas tank. Also, the master and accompanying booster aren't really the moving-type. SOOOO

I took a wild guess and tried a step in the right direct by just moving the whole assembly over by the distance between the 2 main mounting studs, 1.75".

The hole on the right is the new one, the other 2 are backed by some sort of aluminum casting that transmits the load right to the MC. I figured half is better than none.



Well, my decision turned out to be a good one, as the steering shaft just clears the gas tank by the width of a zip tie, the master cylinder extender arm just clears the steering column if you turn it 90 deg, and the heater/ac core just fits back in next to the assembly with less than a 1/4" to spare.



I had to hack open the hole for the steering shaft as it would have fouled now, and I have to figure out some sort of reasonably safe way of transmitting the brake pedal motion to the MC extension arm. This is what I'm most worried about, I'm taking a really well designed double-shear and perfectly centered brake pedal system and building a single shear and slightly side loaded force vector. I've got a couple of ideas, rod ends to be exact, but I will have to play it by ear and get the opinions of a couple of the engineer types on GLF when I get that far.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·




My first plan included using a male heim, but I just couldn't let myself feel comfortable with that in a single shear load. I'm not worried anymore, the pedal will break before this thing does.



This is my friend Michael who has done the beautiful lathe work. He's from the old school and can machine ANTHING! Thanks Michael!!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Roll cage is finished with the exception of the door bars and main hoop diagonal. May do a rear diagonal too... Think I'll skip the roof diagonal though, I like the idea of nothing above me for driving with the top open.

















 
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