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Discussion Starter · #381 ·
Today's progress. Hopefully not this weekend's progress.

Connected the fuel lines to the warm up regulator.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

New fuel filters:

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

There really isn't much left to do. At least to get it running:

CRANK BOLT
THROTTLE BODY
WIRING ISSUES
SPARK PLUGS
TRANS FLUID

Then once it works:
COOLANT
REAR BRAKE LINE
BLEED BRAKES, CLUTCH
PS STEERING FLUID
WIPERS
BUMPER
HEADLIGHT
INJECTOR BLOWER
TIGHTEN CONTROL ARMS
ADJUST SHIFT LINKAGE
ALIGNMENT
DETAIL

Then we put it away for the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #383 ·
So, assembly continues as we edge nearer to the momentous day when it drives itself off the hoist, hopefully down the road and not into winter storage.

Got the throttle body cleaned, adjusted and back on.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Then had to fix the inlet air temperature sensor.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Fortunately our 83 has one that looks like it was a replacement once. Ohms check check out too.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

A bit of electrical shenanigans and it's in.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Then there was nothing left to do but call my Audi expert, Werner then fire it up!

https://www.youtube.com/attribution...=/watch?v=_4JomNrdCRo&feature=em-upload_owner

Doesn't idle yet and still needs coolant but we had a little celebration anyway.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter · #385 ·

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Discussion Starter · #388 ·
Sorry about the lack of updates. Got distracted by some work related events not the least of which was attending LSPR with our 911 and other assorted old rally cars.

14695439_1305247436187424_7489908328833138150_n by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Since I got back I haven't worked on the car but taken every opportunity I could to drive it. This included a funeral, a couple of cars and coffee events, an open house and running to Autozone for parts for our ailing Allroad.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

I'd forgotten how much I enjoy driving this car and how much attention it gets. I'm going to try to enjoy it as much as possible before it goes away for the winter. It drives very well, is smooth and quiet but does have a slight hesitation under load though it pulls strong. I can figure that out and put the remaining few parts back on this winter. For now LET"S DRIVE!
 

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What's up with the brown, Pinto look'n car behind the URQ?? It's got something poking out of the engine hood.
 

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mrdeye said:
What's up with the brown, Pinto look'n car behind the URQ?? It's got something poking out of the engine hood.
I believe it is a Chevette with probably a small block. Kinda of like this:



Greg W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
Been looking for opportunities to show of the car and have some fun with it before we run out of season.

The demise of our A3 left us with some 17" BRAID Fullrace A wheels and 225 tires lying around and with the help of the spacers that our ALLROAD doesn't need with it's winter wheels it soon became obvious what we must do. Throw them on the quattro!

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

This is only for fun mind you. They are a little contemporary and the 225/45-17 tires are about an inch to tall but it was well received in this state at our local meet Saturday.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

You can feel the extra weight and diameter when driving and there is s slight rub somewhere on full lock but they are about the same diameter as the package we are planning to use on our 83 build so worth the trouble. 15" BRAIDs go back on soon.

The car is starting to srtuggle to start again now. Runs great once warmed up exept for a slight hesitation around 4000 rpm. Maybe the cold start valve? It is also pissing out hydraulic fluid still. We replaced everything around the bomb except the pressure switches so we suspect those. New ones are on the way.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

We have also been tidying up the mess we gad left over from the project. This consists of mostly parts that need to go into boxes and parts that still need to go on the car.Tok care of inventorying and boxing parts and installed the plastic underbody stuff.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

So just the cruise control actuator and injector blower to reinstall when we get chance. Holding off for now until we diagnose the starting issue though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #394 ·
It's been winter for too long already so no driving the 85. No working on it either as our 83 rally build and wheel sales have been keeping us busy. We have been picking away at the hydraulic system leaks however. We easily sourced some new pressure switches for the hydraulic bomb and quickly replaced the one on the side. However we did manage to disconnect a wire in the process.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

The one underneath was a different prospect requiring us to access it from below. This, of course, took many, many weeks to get round to until recently when we finally drove it onto some ramps in the showroom.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

where it sat for another couple of weeks till we had time to crawl under it. It soon became anther classic Audi "unscrew the simplest thing, if you can" project until we found just the right 24mm deep socket to get the switch off. At first we tried loosening the bomb from it's moorings but you cant undue these two nuts even though you can see them:

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Finally found a thin wall socket that fit.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

This still left the wiring issue to fix.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Think this is where it came from.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

This puppy cost $35! Well, it was free, but we had to buy $35 worth of zip ties to liberate it from the box of 100 we were supposed to buy.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Soon had it on and back on the switch.

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

image by Team Illuminata Motorsport, on Flickr

Of course we can't tell if it's solved the leaks till we drive it and it's still too salty outside. Never mind, now we can fix the leaky rear diff. However, this involves putting it on the lift and you now how long it took to get it off there last time! Wish us luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #395 ·
Uh oh! Car is on the lift again! Hopefully not for two years this time.



The plan is to drop the diff and reseal it. Three main seals to replace and I think they are all leaking to some extent.







My first plan was to undo the axle and drive shaft bolts, undo the diff mounts and then, hopefully wrangle the diff out. All the axle and drive shaft bolts came out easily but, however, it looks like the axles don't have enough axial free play to release and the subframe bushings have seen better days so new plan is to remove the diff with the subframe. Still have to separate the axles and drive shaft first though. Probably going to remove the track rods and lower control arms at the subframe and leave the struts hanging.



Must remember to disconnect the diff actuator though.



So, how hard could it be?
 

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Get the proper tool for the large seal, if you don't the new seal might not seal properly BTDT.
Trick is to get the seal to be perfectly square to the shaft and the factory tool does a very good job of doing that and getting the depth properly as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #397 ·
ralleyquattro said:
Get the proper tool for the large seal, if you don't the new seal might not seal properly BTDT.
Trick is to get the seal to be perfectly square to the shaft and the factory tool does a very good job of doing that and getting the depth properly as well.
On it Martin, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #398 ·
How hard could it be? Very

Well the axles and drive shaft needed some persuasion to let go of their respective couplings. A few wacks with a hammer did the job. I made some room by disconecting the lower control arms and the tie rods from the subframe.



Then moved on to the subframe bolts. Two came out easily. the rear right was seized in the sleeve but that tore out of the bushing so it did unscrew at least. The rear left just broke it's head off as soon as it saw the socket approaching.



We still managed to free the subframe from it with a bit of brute force but that left a siezed bolt taunting us in place.





So my friend Carlos welded a nut to it but as soon as we offered up the big socket to attempt to unscrew it we realised it was already hand tight! The power of heat. It's magical.



So next is inspection and tear down of the diff and subframe. Oh, and finding lots of parts.

 

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Discussion Starter · #399 ·
We started to dismantle the diff and subframe. Dismantle might be too strong a word and we are just replacing bushings and seals, but it is an old Audi.

Drive shaft and both axle flanges are out.



This is the big seal on the left. No longer available but 034 Motorsport had some made. Phew!



Will need to replace this as it broke off the diff lock actuator shaft.



Will be replacing the diff lock actuator too of course. Already have a new one of those. The rear mount has seen better days. It will have to go. Have a couple of these in the parts bin though :)



and the left tie rod boot is split so this will have to be replaced too. Fortunately still available as a complete unit.



And, of course, new subframe bushings from Germany! So here we are, waiting for parts, again.
 
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