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Discussion Starter · #401 ·
It's been another slow project. Who would have thought replacing three diff seals would take this long? LOL

So we replaced the rear diff mount. The old one came out on the press but the new one only needed a g-clamp and some grease to persuade it home. Fortunately we took pictures so we were able to orient it correctly; or at least the same.



We searched hi and low for a new shaft repair sleeve that was the right size and not made by SKF. You may remember the last one was distorted by it's own installation tool. Finally settled on one from National but when we opened the box the instructions were from SKF! Anyway we were a lot more wary installing his one and managed to keep it staright by making our own installation tool out of a pipe clamp.





Then we pressed in all the seals, The left one is huge and does not have a shoulder to press it against. We measured the old one's depth before taking it out and gradually tapped the new one home around it's circumference till it measured the same all round.





Then we turned our attention to the diff lock actuator. We used the same Mercedes part we had used for the center diff. We had to drill another hole in the mounting plate as the back hole is in a different place. Not a big deal. We managed to salvage the original yoke and had to tap the Merc actuator shaft to mate up to it. Then we slapped it all together. There's something magical about operating the diff lock on the bench. Maybe it's the lack of driving the car.



With the diff done it's time for the tricky bit: sub-frame bushings! We destroyed one last time remember?
 

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Well, the diff project is done, not without with some casualties. Read on……….

Our friend Carlos, a venerated old car genius, made a jig for the press to keep everything aligned while pressing in the notorious pair of small sub frame bushings. The large pair went in like you'd hope a bushing went in: easily.



Well that didn't work and we destroyed one $50, only available from Germany bushing. Apparently there is always a 50% failure rate when pressing these in which is why we had a spare!



So we gave up with the jig and just used a bolt down the middle and lots and lots of patience. This took several attempts with each bushing as we eye-balled them intensely looking for any sign of them starting to twist.



Once they are happy they go in nicely, like you'd expect but the slightest mis-alignment causes them to rotate and if you persist, distort. It was a bit stressful as ruining one more would set us back a month. Once in we soon had the diff mounted in the sub-frame again.



Before we could reinstall the assembly in the car we still had one more bit of housekeeping to perform. One rather rough inner CV joint. Fortnately you can still get these from an OE supplier and we were able to work on it still attached to the car, though it was a little dark under there. Once cleaned the old CV joint came off with some elbow grease and a puller.



We assembled the new joint on the bench and packed it full of grease.



Then drove it home with a drift. They are surprisingly tight on the axle splines.



Then we were finally ready to throw this thing back in the car and tighten everything back up





Except for the lower control arm bushings off course, which have to be tightened with the car on the ground. Unless you have some BRAID wheels lying around that is. Don't try this without proper wheels!



And of course, don't forget to put some nice diff lube in it.



By then it was 1am so we waited till the next day to take it for a test drive



Before returning it to the stable with its friends.



Now the car needs an alignment and a tune. Still have some hesitation under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #403 ·
HELP ME CHOOSE SOME TIRES.

The Kumho all seasons (no seasons) that are on the car are done so it's time for some new rubber. The stock size of 215/50-15 is NLA in anything affordable and streetable so it's going to be 225/50-15 again. The car does not see winter so summer tires are a must. I don't track it but want the most grip I can afford in case I have to stop or swerve in a hurry. They should look cool or period or both. Treadwear is a non-issue as these will age out before they wear out.

I've narrowed it down to 4 but can't quite decide:

P ZERO TROFEO R $169



PROXES R888 $138



PROXES R888R $140



PROXES RA1 $189

 

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Discussion Starter · #404 ·
The car is running but not perfectly (more later) so I have been taking every opportunity to drive it and pose around in it. Took it to the post office:





A cars and coffee or two:







Parked in in the driveway:



and at the showroom:





I even parked it outside the local Audi dealer:



This really is the key to happiness.

 

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Discussion Starter · #405 ·
Took the car to AutoEurope in Birmingham for:

new tires
alignment
detailing
dent removal

Now so clean. Hadn't been cleaned for three years!







They did a great job. Shame it's parked back in the showroom and not in my drive.



Next on the agenda is to address the hesitation under load at around 3-4000rpm. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
MORE CONCOURS PREP FOR THE QUATTRO

With only a few weeks to go before the Concours of America we thought we better get in stuck and fix some issues with the car so we got it into surgery:



Where we removed the TIM and BRAID stickers we have had on the car since we got it:



Put the stock steering wheel back on:



Put the stock wheels back on:



And found the right screws for the trunk carpet that covers the fuel tank:



Although it's not really concours related we did want to replace the valve lifters in the head as one or two sound as if they are sticking lately.





Maybe this was the culprit. It was in about the right position considering where the noise was coming from.



Then off to Auto Europe to get it detailed, with a month to spare!

 

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
Well, what a day we had at the Concours d'Elegance of America last Sunday. This is the first time the car has been accepted to a concours event and our first too so we had no idea what to expect. It's scertainly not like RallyCross! With 11 year old tyres and a nice shiny car we decided the sensible option was to tow the car to the event, even though it was only an hour away. The "Rig Lot" was a bit of a zoo but we found a spot and unloaded without any issues, though the rather expensive looking Daimler being unloaded from a box truck next to us made us a bit more than nervous.



The show was held at the Inn of St. John's in Plymouth, Michigan and was only a couple of miles away from the rig lot. It was also a beautiful sunny morning so was a nice drive, though rather short. As soon as we got to the entrance the attention started. We were somewhat taken aback as we have never really exposed the car to the wider car loving audience. All the way down onto the field people were stopping in their tracks and taking pictures. Two gentleman, one of whom later turned out to be judging our class, practically jumped up and down waving their arms about!

We were quickly escorted to our "ring" and with help from the two "ring masters" positioned our car in its allotted slot. We were in MD class which apparently stand for "Modern Collectables". We were parked with BMW Z1, Daimler Double Six, Vector M12, Toyota Supra Turbo, Nissan 300ZX, de Tomaso Pantera, Lotus Esprit, Ferrari 308GT4 and a Qvale Mangusta.



Even before the show opened to the public there was a crowd gathered around the car. Then all day long we just stood next to it and fielded question after question. We were amazed by the reception the car received and the number of people who were very aware of them but had never seen one. We were also delighted to see old friends who, of course, were quite familiar with the car.



Upon returning from lunch were we thrilled to see a ribbon on the windshield. This seemed to mean the car had won something but were weren't sure what.



At first we thought it might be for "Best In Shoe".



But a little investigation revealed that the Vortex had been awarded Best In Class and that our Quattro and the Pantera had won what was described as "Lion Awards". We are going to call it 2nd and 3rd place as indicated by the order we were to drive onto the awards field later but we are still not quite sure. If anyone asks we were 2nd in class as far as we are concerned. If only Quattros had gullwing doors!





So despite being completely out of our bubble we had a great day. We wouldn't do it every week but it was fun and great to let so many people enjoy the car. Now back to the Quattro rally build.
 

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This is awesome! Glad to see it did well at the show!

Now, where can I get a pair of those shoes? :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #409 ·
Before we dropped the car off at Auto Europe for detailing we had been trying to diagnose some running issues. Basically the car would hesitate when transitioning onto boost but otherwise ran pretty good. There are no real diagnostics on these cars and the CIS injection we find baffling but thought we could troubleshoot it. We went ahead and bought a CIS fuel pressure tester kit to check the various fuel pressures in the system.



These fell a little short of optimal so we replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter That did not help much but did make a marginal difference.





We also tested fuel delivery. We had plenty. So, with Auto Europe also being the home of famed Audi guru Phil we suggested they take a look while they had it in for detailing. Well that escalated fast. Phil quickly diagnosed that the frequency valve was not pulsating. He fixed a dodgy previous owner splice in the wiring but unfortunately that didn't bring it back to life. He then attacked the wires at the ECU end and discovered some disturbing previous owner hacks. Firstly there were a bunch of wire nut splice adjacent to the ECU. Then he realised the vacuum input had been tee'd and there were now two inputs! It didn't get any better once he got into the ECU either. There was a second, aftermarket vacuum switch piggy backed onto the original and various pins on the chip were soldered together! Clearly a new ECU was needed to make this car run as intended by the factory.









They managed to find a un-touched and supposedly working ecu from the same year car and threw it in just hours before we picked up the car to take it over to the concours. The car did indeed run and idle much more smoothly than before but exhibited a big backfire the moment it went from vacuum to boost. It also now will not run pat 4000rpm, an issue normally associated with a bad intake air sensor. That was all tested and the wiring repaired during the engine reseal project so it's probably ECU end related. The backfiring stopped when we disconnected the cold start valve. It appears the ecu is using the that to add fuel on boost; way too much fuel. So that is where we are now: the car idles and runs great up to 4000rpm but then the ecu cuts fuel. We may just drive it like this till the season ends and then let Phil have at it as this car has been off the road far too much these past few years. Let's see how that goes.
 

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team illuminata said:
They managed to find a un-touched and supposedly working ecu from the same year car and threw it in just hours before we picked up the car to take it over to the concours. The car did indeed run and idle much more smoothly than before but exhibited a big backfire the moment it went from vacuum to boost. It also now will not run pat 4000rpm, an issue normally associated with a bad intake air sensor. That was all tested and the wiring repaired during the engine reseal project so it's probably ECU end related. The backfiring stopped when we disconnected the cold start valve. It appears the ecu is using the that to add fuel on boost; way too much fuel. So that is where we are now: the car idles and runs great up to 4000rpm but then the ecu cuts fuel. We may just drive it like this till the season ends and then let Phil have at it as this car has been off the road far too much these past few years. Let's see how that goes.
The MAC 02 has no control over the cold start valve, none whatsoever.
Cold start is triggered by the large sensor on the back of the head via power from starter solenoid.
There might be even more hacking than you thought.

As for 4k rpm cutout, there are 2 things that cause this condition

- Intake temp sensor
- Idle switch.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #411 ·
One of the backfire's we mentioned in a previous post must have been so severe it blew a hole in the exhaust system! This was already hacked up by a previous owner who removed the silence and clad the baffled inner pipe but left the rear box end on as a pipe hanger. Temporary fix.





The original floor mats started to dissolve! Apparantly this happens after 35 years. New replacements were sourced from Germany.





We were visited by the Dirtfish tractor trailer on their way back from the east coast. Photo op!



Could resist this.



DIY Auto invited us to the Woodward Drean Cruise press launch







We just had to try our BRAID SERIE 4 wheels off the rally Quattro. 15x10 et0 with 265 Michelin TB5 tires. I think we understand why the Group B cars had wide bodies.





Of course the obvious nex thing to do was try the gravel rally setup from the rally car. They fit better but are still quite a bit taller than stock.





Our 034 Motorsport shift link bushing are so accurate a replic of the factory units that they too dislove after 5 years. The day before a car show of course. Fortunately we had another on the rally Quattro that wasn'y exactly need right now. We'll have to come up with a better solution for that car, and this one in five years time.





RADWOOD came to Detroit in September so we dragged three cars there and the dog and pony show.





The last outing of 2019 was a cars and coffee at AUDI ROCHESTER. Man it was cold.





After the cars and coffee took thae car to our Quattro guru Phil to get it running right. Unfortunately a leak down test suggested cylinder 4 had some issues. Engine out for a bottom end rebuild!













 

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Discussion Starter · #412 ·
It's Back!

Sorry it’s been so long since we updated this project but, thanks mostly to COVID, there was nothing much to update.

Last time we talked was back in June of 2020 when we’d just decided to rebuild the bottom end of the engine. Phil, our URQ guru stripped it down while we shopped around for an engine shop that could and would do the work. The first place we took it did not give me the warm and fuzzies so, after a couple of weeks of unreturned phone calls we scurried back there and retrieved the block and crank.

Then the search was on for another shop and we were referred to Automotive Machine in Fraser, Michigan. When we deposited the block on their counter the owner said “Is that out of a Quattro? I love those things” and we knew we had come to the right place.

Unfortunately COVID slowed engine work right down and finding parts took forever too. We had closed down our building and moved everything into storage so spent a lot of time working from home. We busied ourselves recreating pictures in 1:18 scale models and the continuous search for elusive Quattro engine parts.





We needed to search for second oversize pistons and rings and 2nd undersized crank bearings. We finally found a set of pistons in Germany but when we opened the box were surprised to find that the rings had “Made in Hastings, Michigan” on the box”!

Meanwhile the months were ticking by and come November we had a new building. We dragged the car, sans engine, back from Phil’s and gave it pride of place in the new showroom.





Yes folks; that’s carpet! Posh us now.

As the car would soon be back to fully running condition (yeah, right) we took the opportunity to replace the tires. It had 3 year old Toyo RA1s on it but we were never quite happy with the size of 225/50-15 and thought they would be much happier on the rear of the 911. Plus, Pirelli had just reintroduced their period correct P7000 tires in the correct 215/50-15 size so it was a no brainer. They just had to come from England, that’s all. Worth it though.







Now the race was on the get the car done before they aged out. Yes, we thought we were joking too!

Slowly, bit by bit, parts started showing up









Until, finally, in June 2021 we picked up the finished block and crank!



We hurried them over to Phil’s so he could start the reassembly process.





However, it wasn’t till next April that we got the call that the engine was fully assembled and Phil needed the car. We couldn’t get it over there quick enough.

 

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Discussion Starter · #413 ·
Over the next few weeks we got a few tantalizing pictures from Phil of the engine nestling back into the engine bay until in mid-May we got the call we’d been waiting for for nearly two years: “your Quattro is ready to pick up”! With the aid of a friend who was dropping his 911 off for some "Philtention" we ran out there to drive back a running Quattro for the first time in almost two years. It didn’t disappoint.











So what do you do with a running Audi Quattro in the summer? Take it to as many cars and coffee events as you can and forget to take pictures of it off course. Here’s a few. Must try harder LOL







More to come………….
 
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