the end of it was made to accept a stock fuel pressure regulator. the coolest thing about it is, I got to watch the guy make it!! way cool!it still needs to be polished and i need to get the feed line fitted up.
yeah, i did the wrinkle paint myself. i have the touch on how to get good results with that stuff. it's super durable for spray paint too.
as for the welding, i had a welder whose shop is right by my dad's do that part of the work.
hey aaron, the pressure regulator will work, the funky thing was, that the bracket shoulda been welded on 90 degrees from where it is now...lol.. i was so enamored with the machining process that I blanked when it came time to weld it onto the rail. no biggie though. I'll just have it cut on a bandsaw and have it rewelded. smooth the welds and polish to mirror shine...easy as pie :wink:
Nice work! What kind of paint is that on the intake and valve covers? Was that a rattle can application or did you use a gun? Do you have any experience with durability of this product in an engine bay environment? Thanks for any infor and keep up the great work.
ok ok, here's a secret i've come across on applying the wrinkle paint...I spray a flat black base coat before laying the wrinkle on, that let's you see that your area will not have any fish eyes. i've tried cleaning a metal surface with laquer thinner and applying the WP strait to a metal surface, but always end up with problem areas. the base coat enures a nice work area. it takes a few tries to get laying the WP coats on even all over the entire object being painted to make sure it all wrinkles the same. if the paint is thicker in one area the paint will wrinkle deeper and thinner the opposite.
as to durability, I've had it on my oil pan,valve cover,fan shroud and brake booster for almost a year now and there has been no flaking anywhere. the only thing that it didn't hold up to (and i can't blame it) is i had a small brake fluid leak from my prop. valve under the master cylinder and it softened some of it up on the bottom of the booster.
and aaron, yes, i fire sleeve fuel lines that travel over the hot parts of the manifold. i get this fabric stuff from an electrical supplier near my dads shop that can withstand up to like 1200 degrees and it comes in a big roll that i can buy by the foot. it's a really nice white fabric and it's only about $1.50 a foot, so if anyone wants some lemme know. i'll post a pic of some of it tonight or tommorrow.
here's the sleeving. it's not too abrasion resistant, but if your reasonable with it it works fine. it flares open to almost an inch inside diameter, and can be stretched out to make it ago down to about a half inch inside.
hee hee hee, the bottom tank is half of a 3 inch round aluminum driveshaft that i found at the recylers, and the top tank is from a square peice that i cut at an angle on our bandsaw. nothing special, just mostly junk parts of stuff, i think with the welding and all the intercooler will cost me about $110 or so. not too bad.
well, after a little modification to the fuel rail so the FPR would clear the wastegate shield, i got the thing slipped in tonight with nary a glitch... i mean, it fit's like it was meant to go there! check it out.