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About the only V-6 TDI that is worth anything powerwise is the newer Common rail 3.0 motors. Most of the VE styles had camshaft issues and really don't make much. The I5 is an awesome engine, I also had serious contemplations with this engine when it was up for sale. I'll look forward to seeing this car to completion. Good Luck.

How close is the linkage and shifter setup compared to the 80Q? Would the RS2 stuff fit in my 80 too?
 

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Looking really good, can that compressor housing be clocked more down and the intercooler/crossmember inlet be changed? Is the ecm original to the engine? Does it have socketed provisions for a chip set?
 

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Ah, I see. For some reason I was thinking the turbo fed into the crosspipe then into the intercooler. Looks like you have it all figured out and it looks oem too.

That's good to keep it stock for as long as possible, everyone can attest, once the power adders start it's difficult to stop. Keep up the good work.
 

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scottmandu said:
80qtdi said:
About the only V-6 TDI that is worth anything powerwise is the newer Common rail 3.0 motors. Most of the VE styles had camshaft issues and really don't make much. The I5 is an awesome engine, I also had serious contemplations with this engine when it was up for sale. I'll look forward to seeing this car to completion. Good Luck.

How close is the linkage and shifter setup compared to the 80Q? Would the RS2 stuff fit in my 80 too?
I wouldn't knock the V6, I've been talking with a German who has one tuned to over 350 ps. Yes the cams are problemsome but so are the ones on the 4 cylinder. A replacement typically fixes the cam issue.
I guess I stand corrected with the V-6's. Very nice progress with your build. Quick question for you, how thick was the frame (on the b3 cutoff) where the frame motor mounts are? Kind of funny, I want to go to the B4 style mounts on my 80.
 

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ChrisAudi80 said:
If it is one thing about diesels I don't like, it is the smoking. And the smell.
That's two things hahaha.

Martin, what do you have the injection pump timed at and did you time it electronically? The reason I'm asking is it shouldn't take more than couple revolutions to fire, regardless of the glowplugs not working. They will start w/o glowplugs down to 0-3C (with decent compression). The smoke should clear with more use, my audi's engine smoked up the whole shop, but after some decent loading of the engine all smoke went away. But if it's not timed 100% it will continue to smoke.

Keep up the good work. It's very motivating.
 

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Ah I see, I didn't realize it doesnt have the needle lift sensor. If you didn't live so far I would let you borrow my indicator.

I know the newer I5 TDI's were adjusted more like the ALH's as in the pulley moves and not the pump, but I agree that it probably just needs a little advance for starting.
 

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The noise is definitely the starter, I wouldn't worry about it too much as it's just when it retracts that it makes it. I just haven't heard it on any transverse engine before.

Besides the starter noise, it sounds pretty healthy. Should be quite fun and economical at the same time. I think you should change out that turbo sooner than later also. It may only be leaking on the hot side for now, but if the intake side starts to leak you could very very easily have a runaway diesel on your hands and about the only way to stop the engine is to cut off the air supply. I'm sure you have heard/seen this happen in the past. I had a diesel start to auto ignite on me, it had a ton of power but scared the dickens out of me. Luckily it was a newer BEW TDI and had the shut-down flapper valve on the intake manifold. Besides that like you said it's a good time to upgrade :).
 

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I agree with the conservative nature of the stock configuration. I'm probably preaching to the choir, but that's why diesel tuning is awesome, they are pretty highly de-tuned and when the power is turned up it usually doesn't affect the life of the engine or the economy under normal driving circumstances.
 

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By chance do you have any fuel leaks from the Injection pump? I doubt it, but it could cause some starting issues. It also seems wierd to me that with the gp relay bypassed it will start right up. Have you tried to have the glow plugs disconnected and bypass the harness to see if perhaps it's an electrical issue?

I have heard when an injection pump is stored for a long period of time it can cause some internal problems with Algae growing and clogging different orifaces in the pump.

Good luck with everything, wish I were closer.
 

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I'm wondering if it's some kind of electrical difference between the relay panel that is causing something funny to go on. That's why I want you to disconnect the glowplugs and energize the relay to see if it will start right away without excessive cranking.
 

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Hopefully for you the compression isn't too low. It's kind of seeming as such, if the compression is too low it doesn't heat up the air sufficiently to auto ignite the diesel when it's injected into the bowl of the piston.

Check the compression, if it's good (between 400-500 psi and even), I would find a set of Nozzles and change them out. If the injectors weren't atomizing the fuel enough it could cause the symptoms you are describing.

I also just thought of something, how did you purge the fuel system? Did the tank have any old gas in it?
 

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I'm still not ruling out the possibility of a little too much Gasoline in the Diesel lowering the cetane rating of the fuel. If your second tank of Diesel doesn't improve the starting I would start thinking about compression (or just do a compression test). If it is the rings sticking, I have had some luck putting some brake fluid in the cylinders and letting it sit in there to loosen them and absorb any water that may still be embedded in the components. Just make sure to leave the glow plugs out before cranking it to clear the fluid out.
 

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Well that rules out the fuel theory, back to timing. I agree with smirre, try to advance it about 1/2 a tooth. If memory serves me correctly looking at the front of the engine/back of the injection pump the pump sprocket needs to go clockwise to advance it. Looking at the sprocket side of the pump counter-clockwise. * disclaimer* I have only done work on 1 AEL, it was a t-belt, but it was also about a year and a half ago. I think I loosened the center bolt of the pump sprocket and just turned the engine to get it to advance/retard.
 

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And a chip huh... Let the modifying begin :D let me be the first to suggest a different set of nozzles, they will not affect the economy, but will give quite the boost in power. Hahaha
 
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