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Discussion Starter · #262 ·
Small update.
Second tank of diesel, still not fully timed yet, German post is taking it's time, but last half a tank was on the bumped timing by one tooth.
890km on 51L which makes it just over 5.7L/100km... bloody good if you ask me. Can't wait to see what it can do with proper timing and a chip ;)
 

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And a chip huh... Let the modifying begin :D let me be the first to suggest a different set of nozzles, they will not affect the economy, but will give quite the boost in power. Hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
Finally the tools have arrived and the motor is timed properly, with the tools it is very easy to time it.
Third tank of gas was as before 910km with 53L of diesel.
Now that it's aligned properly I am already at 310km and only 1/4 of a tank down!

Still waiting for the chip though.

Cheers
 

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ralleyquattro said:
Finally the tools have arrived and the motor is timed properly, with the tools it is very easy to time it.
Third tank of gas was as before 910km with 53L of diesel.
Now that it's aligned properly I am already at 310km and only 1/4 of a tank down!

Still waiting for the chip though.

Cheers
Impressive. A calculated 1200km+ on one tank...
 

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Discussion Starter · #271 ·
MJF said:
Timing would be much accurate when adjusting with gauge, no need for vagcom.
What number do you use?
Factory spec for 1T and ABP is .42mm

Brickyard spec is .55 and he recommends going as far as .7
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpecific/T4/Timing/Timing.htm
I found it a bit hard to start cold with .42 so I bumped it to .65 and it's a bit happier now.
These tools make adjusting a breeze.

Cheers
 

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ralleyquattro said:
More progress:

Finished the downpipe and connected rest of the exhust, the ear section still needs to be welded, but it's tacked together for now.

Hey... that nice-looking 3-bolt flange there... the back half looks like an OE part but the front looks new. Do you know of a place to buy those things - as in, the flared pipe ends, donuts, and the flange - new?

I've been looking everywhere but can't find anyone selling that setup which I find pretty surprising. I know all the cool people are using v-bands, but I like the donut setup because it'll tolerate a little misalignment.
 

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Well... what I'm actually trying to do is about the opposite of what you're doing - I'm *adding* a cat! And to make things even more fun, it's got 3" connections. The layout I'm thinking of is downpipe-cat-flex-reducer (to 2.5")-remainder of exhaust, and I think I'd like flanges between the downpipe and cat, and between the reducer and the rest of the exhaust.

Anyhow, didn't mean to hijack your thread! I want to read about how you tweaked the motor and are now getting 2000 miles to a tank of diesel. :)
 

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1200km != 2000mi

1200km = 725ish miles

Eric :)
 

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I was kidding! :)

But in all seriousness, it seems as the car sits now it's got about the same horsepower as stock but a 10+ improvement in MPG which is quite impressive. If the power can be increased without impacting the fuel economy much, it'll be that much more impressive.
 

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Hello all,

sorry, my english is very bad :-(((( hahahhaha

WOOOOOOOOOOWWWWW
I did the nearly the same project, but I was the first :)
I found this threat accidentally today... wow, did we had exchange of ideas?????

And it was more cheaper (but not so optically perfect like your project). And I did more modifications.
you can search "steftn" at google or http://www.tdituning.at (you have to registrate)., or see here (thats my registration document, i registrated the engine-conversion (V6 to 2,5 TDI) on 16.5.2011 in Germany):

b4q brief.jpg


I used an Audi 80 B4 Quattro V6 2,8 AAH.

I put an AEL engine (140 hp from the audi A6 1997 Quattro) in it (without welding the 5-cylinder holders).
I don't wanted to weld on the caroche. I built own holders, so I can screwing the holders on the caroche (so I can use the original V6 Bolts).

I have 2 Air coolers serial (1st one from Audi S2 ABY, second one from Audi S2 3B).
To do that, i had to modificate the belt transmission (the original ael-engine has another belt-transmission system then the 1T). I took the system like the NG (133 hp, 5-cylinder) has: V-Belt (you can search in google: "Umbau Riemenantrieb AEL")

2 metal-watercoolers from 5cylinder serial (at the first time i only had one watercooler, i had heat problems, because of the big air-coolers in the front. Now, with 2 coolers it's no heat problem any more, i also use 71 degree thermostate and switch.)

battery-port in the front (the battery is in the cargo bay)

exhaust-gas-temperature display

-audi s2 3B frontspoiler (the original audi 80 B4 doesn't fit any more caused the aircooler)

-one-mass flywheel from audi NG with 240mm clutch disk (like audi s2, or Audi 90 with 7a engine) (its better for more power, but you will have more vibration in the gearbox)

6-Gear-Quattro-TDI Gearbox (DQT), self build holders. And you can use the original Audi A4 Quattro gear-linkage, it fits into the audi 80 without a modification and is more more cheaper than the expensive rs2 things.... But i have deactivated the procon-ten.
I used the original V6 flange assembly (but i shorted them a little bit)
And you don't need the rs2 cardan.... to expensive!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I used a Typ85 or Urquattro Cardan (1 Euro in Ebay). But only the front part! The back part is original audi B4 Quattro.
Rear diff was from a Audi 80 B4 Quattro with NG-engine (133 hp) because of the gear transmission ratio.

-AAB-intake (from VW-T4-Bus). It is longer than the AEL/AAT-intake, so you have more moment at low rpm

-selfmade holder for the engine rev counter
- oil wash-plate from the audi s4 AAN
- 7a oil pan
- oil cooler from audi s2 3b (adapter from audi 100 with mc engine with modification)

- modificated blow-by system

modificated TDI-pump (full mechanic, you only have to hang in the gas-rope and put 12V on the outlet), i don't need the electrical pump, its toooooo expensive and error-prome and to much modification in the audi 80). Tuning is very cheap, you don't need a computer, you need a screwdriver (and hardware, eg. 0.280 injectors and 12mm pump-piston).

Next steps (if i have enough money and time):
using Crafter engine (is more better for much power, has better bistons etc...)
see: http://www.tdituning.at (search: Tuningkolben AEL) but you have to registrate.
And building a free programmable common-rail-system (the crafter engine is a commonrail-engine, the engine-block is nearly the same, so you the crafter-injectors and high-pressure-pump fit to the ael)
Or: free programmable VP37 hard/software
And: 2 Turbocharchers in serial to get more boost
And: RS2 brakes
And: Put a Torsen-Diff from audi V8 in my tdi :)
and maybe: 016-Gearbox modification (TDI-transmission) and front lock function
etc

ok here some pics, the conversion is legally registrated in germany (at 16.5.2011).
My problem was/is money and time!!!!!!!
I can only modificate in weekends or at night, so it isn't so easy for me...
So i had to do the best with that things I have.
I'm a poor student with nothing money. But i did it. And you see, its optically not very beautiful :-((( but it doesn't matter to me :)
the important thing to me is power :)))

(this are actually pictures, my air-intake isn't finished, i only tested the sound today, usually i use an air box to get cold air)

if you want more information or have question, let me know.

The project isn't finised, i'm always thinkering on it (but now only so much, that i can drive to the university :) ):

may, someone would say it's botch, but give me the money and the time, i would make it better

P1000149.JPG


here you can see the modificatet V6 bar (i have 2 bars in the front, 1st is originally from audi with ng engine (but modificatet for the air-cooler-pipe) and the 2nd bar is an modificated one from the original v6 (now it goes under the ABY air-cooler, so this bar is the deepest point)
P1000142.JPG


P1000150.JPG


P1000143.JPG


P1000153.JPG


battery in the back. I put the battery on the right side, there's a better place for it, than on the left side. (on the left side, there's a box to put tool in it, and i would miss the box if there is the battery now :) )
P1000151.JPG


battery port (i think this one was from audi 100 or A6?? i don't remember, sorry):
P1000145.JPG


P1000156.JPG


P1000157.JPG


P1000159.JPG


P1000163.JPG


aab-air-intake:
P1000165.JPG


P1000167.JPG


P1000169.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #279 ·
WOW, veryinteresting, unfortunately we don't have access to parts like you do, most of the cars needed to do this conversion never came to North America, the TDI Eurovan, S2/RS2, AEL AAT or ABP or 1T... :(
More pics would be appriciated, I like the intake manifold.. but why the problems with cooling?
I've been running one radiator and it's running so cool now I think I will have issues in the winter time, not enough heat to warm up the interior.
Yes, I also used the typ 85 front part of the driveshaft (cardan) and rear B4. I was worried about possible vibration if the assembly is balanced together, but so far so good.
I am however having issues with oil pressure, I connected oil pressure gauge and only getting 1/2bar at idle and only 2bar at 2000rpm.
It is good enough to pass the min spec, but that's the lowest I've seen on an I5.
Strangly the TDI oil pump is different (Part number) than any other I5 offered over here so I am not sure if I can use any generic pump.
From the outside they look the same, but clearly the part number is different for some reason.
Anyone know?

Cheers
 

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ralleyquattro said:
I am however having issues with oil pressure, I connected oil pressure gauge and only getting 1/2bar at idle and only 2bar at 2000rpm.
It is good enough to pass the min spec, but that's the lowest I've seen on an I5.
Strangly the TDI oil pump is different (Part number) than any other I5 offered over here so I am not sure if I can use any generic pump.
From the outside they look the same, but clearly the part number is different for some reason.
Anyone know?

Cheers
the oil-pumps are all the same, look:

http://audidrivers.de/viewtopic.php?f=1 ... e&start=10

when i rebuilt my tdi engine, i disjointed both pumps (one from tdi and one from petrol)

the outside of the petrol-engine-oilpump is different to the tdi-oil-pump.
the petrol-engine-oil-pump has an extra gate to protect the belt.
The tdi-pumps don't have this gate, instead this, they have a blank sheet.

At my tdi, I modificated it so, that you can change the cam belt without removing the pulley, look:
http://forum.group44.de/viewtopic.php?t ... &p=1322542
(you only have to make two pieces of your blank sheet which protects your cam belt)

The TDI-oil-pump also fits on the petrol-5-cylinder...

i drive with the maximal boost of the turbo (K14, 1,5 bar) and more injection, so the tdi gets hotter with that boost. Because of the front-air-cooler, the airflow to the watercooler is not so good, that was the reason to install 2 aircoolers (my aim is to get over 250 hp)....

more pics:
here you can see the 2 bars (on the top the bar from audi 90 with ng-engine, under a modificated v6 bar)
P1000170.JPG


the water connector on the tdi-block is from audi urquattro/audi coupe b2 with 5cylinder. It's not the same connector like the audi 80/90 NG-connector. I used that to use 2 watercoolers:
P1000171.JPG


another picture from the aab-intake (it also fits on the petrol 10VT-Engine (like Audi 100 turbo or urquattro 10V):
P1000172.JPG


modificated tank-intake without the butterfly:
P1000173.JPG


exhaust from audi 100 10VT (it looks like the exhaust from audi a6 tdi, was requested by the german tüv):
P1000174.JPG


P1000175.JPG


selfmade exhaust pipe and gearbox-holder:
P1000178.JPG


my selfmade oil-cooler holder and right engine-holder (i didn't welded on the body, nothing):
P1000179.JPG


left engine-holder (the yellow thing is a garden hose to protect the battery-cable to the starter-engine/generator):
P1000180.JPG


P1000184.JPG


this big pipe is my crankcase ventilation (only a pipe which goes from the valve cover connection under the car and than to the nature :) :
P1000186.JPG


P1000189.JPG


P1000190.JPG
 

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