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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am starting with a stock mc engine(1986 5ktq) and I will like to have some input from guys that have done this. I am going to go EFI and I am going to stay 10v.
Questions:

- How strong is mc bottom end?

- Will the 016 trans be able to handle up to 400hp?

- Is MC head a good place to start or do I go NG/NF from the start.(with mc exhaust valves)

- What cam do I use Stock/Custom Cam/MC2 Cam?

:thanks:
 

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Motor and trans should handle the power just fine.
Big valve head would not be a bad idea, but use an NF head over an NG. NG has injectors in the intake manifold whereas the NF would be a direct swap to the MC. Porting the head would also be a good idea.
MC2 cam would be good.
 

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I have the same 016 trans in my v8 and i blew the center diff out of it. Granted there are different variations of the 016. I figure my v8 is >250 hp. Will it hold? Prolly for a while. Im pretty hard on my trans. Depends on how you launch. If you launch. How fast/ hard you shift. If you rev match or just grab a gear when down shifting.

My thoughts.
 

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Cool Peter! Are you going to make a project thread? I have the same motor and similar goals so it will be fun to watch it all unfold. Post some eye candy along the way!
 

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The stock bottom end is good up to 400WHP from what I remember. Port match your intake and exhaust manifolds, use the NF head with the NF cam (same cam as MC2). Your trans SHOULD be able to handle it. I beat mine pretty hard in chipped form with no problems. I never really launched it though.
 

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Trans is good for about 400hp-ish. If you launch said trans, all bets go out the window.
 

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My 200 20v is making over 400whp. I've launched it probably 25 times at ~5000rpm with the anti-lag turned on. Trans has 230k on it with 20k of those at the not stock power level. No issues yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cool so I know I am good as far as trans and bottom end goes.
Audischwagen- I plan on making a build thread when I get started on this.

What about an intake should I keep the stock one? And fuel rail?

Would I need to go for a tube exhaust manifold?
 

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As gtn116 said, you will want to port match the manifolds, but you will also want a descent port and polish on the head. Not to mention having a set of OS stainless exhaust valves installed. Im not too sure how the NF exhaust valves will hold up to the turbo heat. In my case, I also installed high rate valve springs, and titanium retainers. this will help the valves snap shut and not bounce.

What are you planning on doing turbo wise? there are a lot of bolt on options, as well as build your own options.

As for the intake manifold, the factory should be fine. Just make sure you pic up a spacer for it, or you will have clearance issuse with the EFI.

My build should be right around 300hp if I figured it out right. One thing to think about is making sure that your injectors are large enough to make the power you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Anyone has pictures or links to 10v ported heads?
 

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I ported mine. There are some in my build thread. Ill see if I took and more before it all went together
 

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If you are serious about this I'd take the head to someone with professional experience. Just removing material can actually make the flow worse. You should have someone with a flowbench do it. It should be less than a grand for the work. Gasket matching is worth doing yourself though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
pkw said:
every time I see someone suggest PP I wonder what they are expecting HP, price, and longevity wise.
would you elaborate on that please
 

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a pp will not be a big gain. for a big gain there are a lot of little things that are included in "head work" that add up and it gets spendy and a lot of the things take away longevity like less guiding on the stems, and less contact area on the valve seating surface. so it all has its drawbacks. best idea is leave it stock, and run 16 ish pounds on cis. if you NEED more than that leave the head all stock, add your efi, hx35 turbo with suitable manifold and run e85. 350hp bam. done. if and when it lets go because you are new to tuning, good, it will be time to go 20v and 400-500 hp....on the same turbo, so size the injectors for it now and you will be all set with room to grpw. swapping to a higher flow 10v head is a waste. the things that will get you there are the turbo and the e85.
 

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...I mean you can do what you want but throwing money and effort at a 10v for a puny 350hp is like buying a diamond necklace for a turd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
3inch exhaust will flow more than enough for this setup right?
 

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Yes. I have a 3" exhaust on my car.
 

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The 10v is knock limited more than flow limited. Do you have access to E85? Go larger intake valves like the NG, replace the Sodium filled exhaust valves with good inconel or stainless and don't waste too much time trying to port it. Getting good fuel in there is most important. Also make sure you use an MC2 cam, best bang for the buck. Don't fall into the 272 trap, you will loose power. Big efficient turbo, with a big hotside will help to eliminate backpressure and reduce the tendancy to knock.

My theory is if you are buying headers and big things to make a 10v go fast, you should stop wasting your time and just buy the same components for a 20v in the first place.

I ran a 10vt for a really long time, and it always leaves you wanting more. The 20v on the other hand can always give you more :)
 
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