[AUDIschwagon]

New timing belt , new ngk plugs, bosch plug wires, cap, rotor etc. Timing marks dist. Align all on the money.

Motor fires up and runs on cylinders 2, 3, 4, 5. Pulled plug wire on #1 no spark no motor change.
Replace and pulled at dist cap. No spark to dist top. #1. Replaced cap, same symptons. #1 will not get spark but the rest will. Tested hall sender according to bently, 4v with hall window closed 17v when open bently says must be 0.0-0.5v when open or replace? Blink code 2113 hall sender.

Basically what I'm asking is can the motor still run 4 cyl with a faulty hall sender unit? Like its just not giving spark to number one but to the rest. I don't quite understand.

 

[40v4kq]

Something sounds fishy about this. I dont understand why no1 wouldn't have spark form the distributor but all other cylinders do. If the hall sender was bad then you should have no spark period.

 

[mounty]

what color is the spark at the other plugs?

is the distributor one tooth off by chance?

 

[mounty]

what color is the spark at the other plugs?

is the distributor one tooth off by chance?

 

[mounty]

what color is the spark at the other plugs?

is the distributor one tooth off by chance?

 

[mounty]

wow.

sorry about that.

some quality internetting right there. :tard:

 

[AUDIschwagon]

LOL, I do the same thing every time I use my mobile it wants to post three times.

Fired it up and was running on all five. Well when I grabbed the wires on the hall unit earlier it dropped the spark to the #1 cylinder? I don't know why this would happen unless it is just coincidental. There was slight scoring on the wires to the hall plug so I replaced that section added dielectric grease to the port etc...

Again reconnected, ran on all five, idles fine then looses spark to #1.

Spark color is blue/whitish to 2,3,4,5 and number 1 when it functions*

Distributor was never touched after the timing belt change. Everything lined up to TDC and the notches on the DIST.

Found TDC again and realigned adjusted the distributor to see if maybe I had missed something. Everything lines up.

I really do not know what to even test at this point.

I am not getting spark for number one out of the new distributor cap or the old one. The other 2-5 do? So I very much doubt it is a wire which has also been ohms tested and checked out.

 

[mounty]

Make sure the female plug ends on the hall sensor plug are tight. Loose females cause troubles that are hard to track..

 

[AUDIschwagon]

Everything is good and tight, had the motor idleing shook the fresh cables on the hall plug and no change this time,

Motor starts with 5 cyl running and then down to 4 with no spark to #1

 

[mounty]

wonder if coil is taking a poop?

 

[AUDIschwagon]

Tested yesterday, it checked out according to bently. My problem seems to be between the plug wires and coil. This is a big dafuq problem. What the hell does intermitent spark to one plug wire mean yet the rest get spark mean. Everything I can think of has been tested. Appreciate the shoulder to cry on lol.

 

[88a5tq]

Loose females cause troubles that are hard to track..

Ain't that the truth

How's everything look inside the cylinder one? does it look similar to the others in the cylinder? try a new plug and wire there if u have a spare set somewhere. It doesn't sound possible to drop one cylinder with a distributor cap like this. So it's not a matter of a bad injector because u actually checked the spark? Nevermind I just read u checked the wires n such

 

[Rallyfreak202]

I'd switch #1 and #2 wires. I know it will mis-fire. See if you lose spark on cyl #2 with the wires switched.

 

[AUDIschwagon]

Whooooweeew!! That hurt ugggh made my whole body jump, that's what I get for grabbing wire with bare hands anywho I switched them and no change. The wires are fine and here's the kicker. When I give throttle #1 gets the spark, its just weaker than all the others, then as the idle comes down it drops away. I can hold the distributer end of the #1 plug just above the #1 distributor port and watch it arc as I rev away. When idle nada nothing zip, tried both plug wires and same scenario. Inside cylinder looked clean when I checked, nothing concerning I haven't done a compression test on it yet but I know it is holding pressure. All five will run! The communication of spark from dist. Too #1 is not transmitting/or it is intermittent.

 

[40v4kq]

What a headscratcher! All I can think of is maybe the shaft in your distributor is loose or bent causing a poor reading by the hall sender when the gap for no1 passes by. Pop the cap off and grab the rotor and see if you can make it move side to side. Also see if its off to one side like the shaft if bent.

Edited for my super poor spelling because I care sometimes

 

[AUDIschwagon]

Should there be any play at all? I can jiggle it but I cannot rotate it by hand.

 

[mounty]

move the number one spark plug and see if problem follows...

i had my aeb engine that the ceramic broke inside the plug and under a load it was fine but it would miss at idle.

 

[40v4kq]

Should be just a little play. Im with mounty. Have you been using the plug form number one when you check for spark on no1? or have you been using a known good plug?

 

[AUDIschwagon]

I'm using a grounded test light at the top of the distributor slot for #1 now. The metal probe type.

I can watch it build up spark and arc as I rev and watch it fade as the rpms slow down. Just before my rpms drop below 1000 the spark just cuts off of the #1 only. All the others are getting a consistent spark no matter what rpms.

I tried swapping the {NEW} plugs #1 and #2 as you guys suggested just in case I was overlooking but the problem stayed with the number one cylinder. When I pulled them out #1 was wet with fuel and #2 was dry and had good pattern. So plugs are good and wires are good. Distributor is brand new Bosch but having same symptoms as old one. Rotor is brand new but tried swapping between new and old as well with no change. So if the rotor gets power from the ignition coil that can be the only thing that is possible next on the list that is on the fritz? I tested the coil according to Bentley but the funny thing about Bentley test is if the coil still checks out OK the final step in the Bentley manual says to replace ignition coil END. Explain that one haha

I know for certain spark at idle is not getting from the top of the distributor to #1 plug wire. Somewhere it is not translating over.

Earlier I even tried adjusting the distributor while the engine was idling to see if maybe I was off somewhere but the condition stayed the same.

WEEeeeeeeeeeeeeee Appreciate the help so far.

 

[mounty]

well then... uhhh...interesting.

any thoughts on the POS on the side of the coil?

try running 12v directly to coil it self by passing the pos. if no one thinks that will cause an issue?