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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I finished yesterday the harnesses, then now to install, and obviously I would like to pic on your knowledge.

1. My application is subjected to hard impacts and constant absurd vibration. How would you do the bracket for the fuel rail?
The easy way is to attach the bracket to the cam cover, but I have the impression that it could be not enough. Another idea is to link it to the IM.

2. Location of the computer. I'm thinking to install it wher the cruise control module used to be on top of the center tunnel. BTW, I'm removing the console and replace it with a panel made of aluminum and carbon fiber.
The glove compartment deosn't exist, so. Should I boxed the 034 ECM?
I can build lateral walls for the panel. Opinions?

3. Quicky: Which one is the temp sensor I connect to the ecm. The one on the top or the one on the bottom of the water neck? (I can find out myself, but I'm sure several people here know by heart)

4. The heater for the O2 from the original system will work even with all the controllers removed?

TIA,

Carlos
 

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hey carlos,
#1. heres a couple of pics of my fuel rail brackets, I just used the existing bosses on the side of the head, they already have holes in them, they just need to be threaded,I used a thread insert,then i got some 3/4x1/8 aluminum strapping at the hardware store and bent it to the right angle so the injectorswere square with the injector ports. it is a extremely sturdy, alot of weight has to be put on it to make it move.

#2. you can mount the ecu wherever is convenient to you. I imagine making sure it sit's on the rubber isolators would be ideal to insure that the unit doesn't get too abused, but it shouldn't matter anyhow.

#3. yes,the water temp sensor is on the bottom of the water port

#4. someone else can take a stab at answering that one, I'm pooped from all this typing and going out into the freezing cold to take pics of my fuel rail brackets. that and i don't know :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying.

I'll look at the option you used to the fuel rail bracket. It does look sturdy. Thanks for the pics.

Cheers,

Carlos.
 

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My turn :)

1. I've used Derek's method before, but I've also snapped those tabs off pretty easy when not paying attention. As of now, I made some aluminum brackets out of 1/8"x1" stock that go in basically the same spot as the tabs on the valve cover brackets. It takes about 1/2 hr, and it's a much better option for a rally car. Here's the best pics I have right now, If I have time, I'll take some better ones tonight.

2. The glovebox location out of harms way sounds like a good plan.

3. What Derek said

4. It doesn't on the type 89 cars, I just took the power from my relay that's attatched the ign on signal. Just unplug your computers and turn the key on and see if it gets hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jim,

My concern is not the bracket itself, but the point of attachment.
The "poundage" is violent (just ask my front struts).
I'm afraid that the bracket start digging into the cover creating an oil leak.
I know that such leak does not represent a lot of oil, but any oil leak is bad for the abuse the engine is subjected.

I might have to go with it and inspect it at each service.

It's amazing how real life experience turns out in something else. I can bench racing for hours just to be beated by reality.

Regarding the O2, it isn't a big deal, just courious.

Thanks and cheers,

Carlos.
 

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The bracket shouldn't 'touch' the cam cover at all really, take a look at mine:


The factory load spreading bar is between the cam cover and the fuel rail bracket completely.
 

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jim, what do you mean you've snapped those brackets off before? i don't see how that could happen. my aluminum brackets are made from strapping and bolt directly to the head itself. it would take significantly more force to break mine than a stock digifant rail bracket.
I'm just curious......Derek
 

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Whoa, my bad! I had a pre-conceived idea in my head and didn't look at your pic close enough, or read your post well enough. I like the way yours works, you don't have to take the braces off to take the valve cover off. I was thinking of the existing brackets on the 5ktq valve cover thingy that were originally designed to hold the air shroud in place. This is a pic using those tabs to hold the fuel rail in place. Way to flimsy for my taste.

http://www.mswanson.com/~jgreen/conversion_home2.html
 

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Carlos, you can see how I did my rail, while much more involved, it seems to have heled up very well:

http://www.80tq.com/images/fuelrail.jpg

The methods other mentioned work very well too, I really like Derek's idea since it doesn't interfere with the valve cover and removal.

On the ECU, just mount it where it won't get hot or steped on/pounded on. Somewhere on the firewall or where the glovebox used to be is good, and somewhere that is accecible to get to wiring easily and quickly (since yours is a racecar).

Great progress!
 

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audifreakjim said:
Whoa, my bad! I had a pre-conceived idea in my head and didn't look at your pic close enough, or read your post well enough. I like the way yours works, you don't have to take the braces off to take the valve cover off. I was thinking of the existing brackets on the 5ktq valve cover thingy that were originally designed to hold the air shroud in place. This is a pic using those tabs to hold the fuel rail in place. Way to flimsy for my taste.
no biggie jim, i thought maybe you just overlooked it. I looked at a few different ways to hold the rail in place before i went to it, this particuler way was the easiest,sturdiest, and cheapest. javads rail brackets are way slick and looks like the factory molded it in place, but it is time consuming and tedious to get those little stands and the rail at the right angle, so I opted for the easy way out. if you think my rail brackets are slick, wait til' i get my new fuel rail back from my machinist friend. I'll put pics up when I get it.
 
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