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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. Recently found this amazing forum and since I was on the lookout for a CQ, thought I had better make myself an account here as I will probably be spending time here for help and advice, and hopefully to help out as well :)

So, I've been a long time Audi fanatic. I've owned 7 now, in the following order of acquisition:

1) 1987 Audi 4000s, not even a Quattro and I still fell in love with the brand way back in highschool
2) 1988 Audi 90 Quattro 10V Pearl with black leather, still one of my favorite Audi's that I owned
3) 1993 Audi 90 CS for my wife, had to find one that was auto since she hates driving manual trans
4) 1996 Audi A4 2.8 Quattro again for my wife, when we decided to get in to a Quattro for her

Then a hiatus from any cars as we moved to NYC for school for 4 years. Upon moving back though:
5) 2000 Audi S4 I've never had more fun in the snow. Just GIAC chipped, nothing crazy on that one, but I did manage to rebuild the trans on it when my 1-2 shift collar went out
6) 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro for the wife. This was a great car for our family . . . until the transmission went out about 18 months ago! Car wasn't worth much and I didn't want to make the effort to replace the autobox myself.

Then we were living downtown and I was walking to work, so I sold the S4 and we sold the A6 for cheap when it broke and bought an Acura MDX . . . The first non Audi product I had purchased since I was 16! It's an outstanding car for a family with kids though.

And now, I recently acquired this 1990 Audi Coupe Quattro. The car I always wanted when I was driving my 90. I just think the style of the audi's of this era is unmatched. So I found this one on Audifans classifieds and took a train out to Colorado with my brother and drove it home to Utah just about a month ago. I have yet to really get started, but it runs and drives good. First thing it needs is a windshield and to fix the ebrake so I can get it inspected and registered. Those windshields are hard to source at times! Fortunately the good folks at my local dealership got me one at the bargain basement price of $300, not including installation. Ouch! Oh well, its not as if I wasn't going to spend money on this car :D

Here are some pics that hopefully give an idea of the condition of the car. So far the items that need addressing are:
-Climate control stuck on heat, flap wont move when controlling with the head unit. Fan still responds appropriately, probably something in the A/C circuit will also need replacing (compressor, evaporator, condenser etc.) but will have to fix the flap unit first. Maybe convert to manual? Thoughts?
-Previously mentioned windshield
-E brake won't engage, something in the linkage doesn't feel right, need to pull the center console and look at it (scratch that, fixed it last night before getting this post finalized :) )
-ABS non functional
-Cruise control non functional
- Drivers seat and rear backrest leather torn seams
-desperately needs a detail job
-missing some trim (exterior drivers side behind the door as seen in photo, and the piece in the trunk that surrounds the latch on the body of the car)
-Passenger door handle won't open from the inside, outside works fine.
-rear lock cylinder functions manually, but won't disengage the factory alarm or operat the central locks from the rear hatch.
-Pentosin leak (suspect the pump, not sure yet)
-Brake booster doesn't seem to work. No difference in brake pedal feel or effort even if I drain the bomb with like 50 pumps when the car isn't running
-general clunkiness of old bushings and tierod ends of worn suspension, shocks are also shot.

I know most people would maybe give up and part this sucker, but I intend to keep it on the road and bring it back to life :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A1QSHIP said:
Welcome! Nice color combination, Pearl over black interior.
Chris
Thanks :thanks: Pearl on Black has always been my favorite combo on the B3/B4 cars. My '88 was the same.
 

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Welcome, We'll have to do another Utah Lunch Meet now that it is summer again! I can get you answers on most of your problems by just looking at it, so yeah Utah lunch!
 

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-Climate control stuck on heat, flap wont move when controlling with the head unit. Fan still responds appropriately, probably something in the A/C circuit will also need replacing (compressor, evaporator, condenser etc.) but will have to fix the flap unit first. Maybe convert to manual? Thoughts?
Could be a vac leak causing it to not engage, or it could be diteriation: http://forums.quattroworld.com/9080/msgs/22137.phtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
-Previously mentioned windshield
I paid 190 from the local dealer

-ABS non functional
Most likely a abs sensor at the wheel hub, many times just a good cleaning "de-rusting" can clear up this issue.
-Cruise control non functional
Again Vacuum leak, the seals at the pedal wear out as well: http://forums.quattroworld.com/9080/msgs/644.phtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- Drivers seat and rear backrest leather torn seams
That is either work for an upholstry shop/diy or source good replacements

-Passenger door handle won't open from the inside, outside works fine.
Bowden cable, again either source used or buy new... I had a set, nick might have them

-rear lock cylinder functions manually, but won't disengage the factory alarm or operat the central locks from the rear hatch.
Pretty Common, there are some small "pot metal" castings on the lock body that break off pretty often, source new from a 90 is your best bet.
-Pentosin leak (suspect the pump, not sure yet)
You might try using Mobil 1 fully Synthetic ATF, it has seal conditioners that help if it is just a slightly worn seal.
-Brake booster doesn't seem to work. No difference in brake pedal feel or effort even if I drain the bomb with like 50 pumps when the car isn't running
If it feels like a rock it isn't working. if it feels really spongy it is working but probably leaking.
-general clunkiness of old bushings and tierod ends of worn suspension, shocks are also shot.
20+ year old car probably has a lot of the stock rubber bits underneath. the stock rubber replacements are very inexpensive, but labor costs are high.
 

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varia said:
Just to add a little to Dave's list, check the fuse on the ABS relay before anything.
:stupid: Yeah, good point, the one under the dash. that was actually the problem on my pearl coupe when i bought it... Red fuse in the top of a relay under the drivers side lower dash panel
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Man you guys are awesome! Thanks for so much help so soon. Hybrid, I'd love to do a lunch meet some time. Let me at least get this sucker legal and then maybe we can see when a good time would be. I figured as much regarding the Bowden cable, just haven't pulled the door card off yet. I'll check the ABS fuse tonight after work. I think my pentosin leak might be beyond help. I'm suspect of the pump because the puddle of 3 weeks of sitting seems to be right under that area.

PS any ideas for getting that really stiff leather to soften up again? I've cleaned, conditioned with Lexol products and that has helped a little. Mink oil maybe?

Thanks again all.

Brake pedal is rock hard, so I had thought I might need to source a new booster, or rebuild this one if that's even possible. Worth converting to vaccum boost maybe? I wouldn't really know what's involved in that though.

Is the vaccum pump for the Cruise and the vacuum for the climate control of the same circuit, or are there separate vacuum pumps and reservoirs? I know the linkage to the throttle for the cruise is missing, so I'll have to repair that first and see if that was the only problem. I had a vacuum leak on the cruise with my 90 though, so I won't rule that out yet.
 

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See what I mean Bryan? Tight group here :)

On the brake bomb, if you can manage it i would suggest going the vaccum boost route. Correct me if I'm wrong but basically you need the brake booster from a 90CS. Not sure what else.

I'll look and see if I still have the bowden cables but they may have already been sold.

Love all the pics btw :) the more pics the better!
 

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It is very important that your glass technician use rivets from Audi. They're an odd size and things won't go back together properly if they use whatever they have lying around. Also, get the OEM trims and gaskets as the off the shelf stuff used by folks like safelite won't allow the A pillar trim to go back properly. Also instruct them to not use too thick of a sealant bead when setting the windshield. This will cause the glass to sit high and won't allow the A pillar trim to sit properly. I have a list of all the correct part numbers if you need it. I just went through a nightmare windshield replacement with safelite which resulted in my insurance company paying to have a proper body shot re-install oem glass with all oem parts.... and the a pillar trim still doesn't fit right due to too thick of a sealant bead being applied, but it doesn't leak, and all the trim is now properly fastened, so I'm going to leave well enough alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
See what I mean Bryan? Tight group here :)
Couldn't agree more! I'd love to do a Utah lunch some time and get to know some of the people and cars in the area :)
Yeah, let me know on the Bowden cable for the passenger door, if you have it great, if it already sold, no worries, I'll find one :wink:

It is very important that your glass technician use rivets from Audi. They're an odd size and things won't go back together properly if they use whatever they have lying around
So . . . I already cut my old windshield out on my own. As far as the rivets you are referring to, are you meaning the ones holding 5 or 6 little clips to each A pillar? If so, I didn't remove them. I was able to slide the exterior A pillar trim forward, downward to remove that part and then pull all the trim. I was very cautious removing the trim and it came off pretty much undamaged, so I had planned on reusing mine. I have the OE glass from my dealer in storage. I was even considering installing the new windshield on my own, since I saw the orientation of the old one in there, still up for debate. But your points are well taken and I'll be VERY careful selecting a glass technician who can do it properly the first time. I actually think I read a thread similar to what you are describing when I was looking for windshield parts. Maybe it was yours! I cant' remember where I saw it as I just stumbled across it while google searching.

For bead thickness, the 3m windowweld urethane sealant states a minimum 1/4 inch thickness. the old sealant I cut out was thinner than that in places - I had wondered whether that might have been a part in why the old on cracked up. It had 3-4 full width cracks in the bottom 1/3 with a few branches running in to each other, but no real significant rock chips for them to come from. I heard that too thin of a bead will result in stress cracks. Anyway, I guess the point is get someone who will do it the OE way, the first time and who knows what they are doing ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh, forgot to add one more thing to the list: my Autocheck doesn't seem to work at all. The little LCD is totally dead. I have no idea where to start with that, frankly it's kind of low on the priorities for now, but I'd still like to have it eventually working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So on the recommendation I got here, I decided to check the fuse in the ABS relay, and guess what? It wasn't even there! I think I have the correct relay in a pile of stuff that came with the car, but looking for confirmation. It has a 15 amp fuse in the top and has a large #76 on it. I'll try and get a pic of it uploaded this afternoon. Just looking for reassurances though :)

Thanks
 

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drdds said:
So on the recommendation I got here, I decided to check the fuse in the ABS relay, and guess what? It wasn't even there! I think I have the correct relay in a pile of stuff that came with the car, but looking for confirmation. It has a 15 amp fuse in the top and has a large #76 on it. I'll try and get a pic of it uploaded this afternoon. Just looking for reassurances though :)

Thanks
i think it was a red fuse originally, so 10ams.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
New windshield installed diy yesterday :). Finally I got everything done on that. Pulled the old one out, cleaned up the pinchweld, attacked the surface rust with a wire wheel followed by KBS 3-step anti rust system, 3M pinchweld primer and 3M urethane. I'll upload some pics from my phone when I get a minute today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I have some if the pictures from my windshield install, but I missed the first ones of when I was cleaning up the rust. Here you go though:

Cut the ok windshield out first with a windshield wire from harbor frieght. I learned that I would not attempt to remove a good piece of glass on my own - I made so many cracks removing it it was exponentially worse than before. Now I'm committed! I scraped out all the old urethane then wire wheeled any rust areas and treated the whole pinch weld with KBS three part rust treatment.

Used the 3M single step primer following the directions for primer application in the Bentley manual on the pinch weld and the glass edge. I laid the windshield face down on a couple of fluffy blankets on the hood to orient it.

Once the primer dried, i placed the depth spacers from audi (they look like cabinet door bumpers) and then we dry fit the windshield and marked the location with masking tape. We cut the maskin tape and then pulled the windshield out and laid it back down with the suction cups still on. Then I cut the tip to the 3m urethane windshield adhesive to lay a bead approximately the dimensions and shape described in the Bentley manual. Carefully laid a bead of adhesive on the glass (big forearm workout here! Better if you are Popeye or have an electric caulk gun) and then my brother and I carefully placed the windshield in place according to our masking tape marks, pressed it on place, then secured it with tape and left it to dry with our fingers crossed for no leaks. Here are the results! Btw took it to a carwash today, no leaks!!
 

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wow well done! first time doing a windshield? I'd be pretty paranoid to do that, especially after paying 300+ for glass... at least if the installer broke it they would have to pay for it :)
 

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Yes very well done! I honestly would rather deal with wiring (and by deal with I mean stare at it on my floor wishing it would put itself back together) than attempt a windshield. My hat's off to you for the good work.

This thing registered yet? :hide:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hybrid_Hatch said:
wow well done! first time doing a windshield? I'd be pretty paranoid to do that, especially after paying 300+ for glass... at least if the installer broke it they would have to pay for it :)
Yeah my first time. I was very nervous. That thought absolutely crossed my mind. I have this problem with wanting to do things myself even when I'm not qualified too . . . even when it wouldn't save me any money because the stupid adhesive and primer is so expensive. There is something wrong with me :wtf:

nsimps said:
Yes very well done! I honestly would rather deal with wiring (and by deal with I mean stare at it on my floor wishing it would put itself back together) than attempt a windshield. My hat's off to you for the good work.

This thing registered yet? :hide:
This made me laugh :lol: When I did my S4 transmission and I had my car on jackstands and couldn't fit the dumb thing out from under the car because of the height of the bell housing, I "dealt" with it in a similar fashion :curses: How is the wiring coming anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And now I have a state emissions and inspection report all passed with flying colors! Now to find time to take it to the DMV :woowoo:
 
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