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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the brackets for the fuel rail, installed them and pressurized the rail with air.

The new injectors can't keep any air, even with pressure as low as 10 psi.

I put another set (used ones) and the cyl #2 gave up before the others.

I thought it could be an angle problem on the bracket, so I disconnect from the bracket and held them by hand in position. Again, air leaking at really low pressure.

I asked this before. Is it normal to be so easy to pop in and out the injectors very easily?

When I pressed them in, they go a little smoth then you feel a small pop at the end. I though it was too loose for my taste.

I'm going to a FLAPS at lunch time and get a set of O-rings, but I doubt it will make a difference.

Any ideas???

Thanks,

Carlos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well it might be the o-rings. I pop them in and out with ease no use of oil necessary, but they came lubricated with silicone though..

I believe the leaks are at the fuel rail for most cases. Although, on the new set I thought one leak seems to come from the cyl head (injector).
Is it possible that the valve is open, then if I energize it and cut power it will force it closed, or am I dreaming here?

I have a race February 7th, and I'm getting a little worried that I won't make it since I only can work after 11pm and few hours on the weekend.

Thanks,

Carlos.
 

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Carlos, couple things on the rail, ensure that the rail is perpendicular to the injectors, if the rail is angled even slightly it can leak. Also be sure to lube up your injectors and that none of the o-rings have any cuts or tears in them. Also, bringing the rail down on the injectors is a good idea too, so that the 0-rings seal on the bore and bottom of the hole. Air may not be the best thing to test the rail with since the 0-rings are designed to seal with fluid, so give it a test with some fuel as well.

Keep me posted,
 

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Well it might be the o-rings. I pop them in and out with ease no use of oil necessary, but they came lubricated with silicone though..
Yea, that's a little loose. I'd cut my o-rings if I didn't pursuade them a little. Did you make your own fuel rail or did you get one of Javad's? I was fighting similar issues on mine. I finally threw n the towel and got one of Jadad's. Perfect fit all around.

I believe the leaks are at the fuel rail for most cases. Although, on the new set I thought one leak seems to come from the cyl head (injector).
Is it possible that the valve is open, then if I energize it and cut power it will force it closed, or am I dreaming here?
That's exactly what I would try

I have a race February 7th, and I'm getting a little worried that I won't make it since I only can work after 11pm and few hours on the weekend.
Ahh, now we all know this wouldn't be any fun if every project went perfect! :frustrated: I just tore out all of my wiring, breather hoses, and fuel plumbing last night because, well I hated the way it was done. I can't tell you guys how much I miss standing in front of the car staring at it, covered in fuel, thinking, now where the f*ck am I going to put this regulator. :wtf:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's what I'm going to do:

1. Replace the o-rings.
2. Measure again the rail angle, shimming if necessary.
3. Test with air again.
4. Test with fuel.

Thanks,

Carlos.

ps. I got the rail from Javad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I replaced the o-rings and was able to hold pressure at 40 psi pushing the rail with my hand.

I didn't test with the brackets since the FLAPS had only one set of O-rings, but I'll stop by today and get a seconf set to replace the o-rings at the inserts.

However, they still get in a bit too easy though. I didn't have to do any elbow grease with them. Anyway...

Thanks for the help,

Carlos.
 

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on my car, i had my fuel rail cnc'd, copying an existing injector bore from another manifold (slightly tapered all the way in,with a beveled lip). my injectors are a harder to install in the rail than in the inserts in the head, since they have a considerable taper. there's my experience with the subject, hope it helps.
 

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Carlos, if everything fits right the fit doesn't need to be very tight, your rail was machined on a mill, so with the right o-rings you'll be fine, just be sure to lube up the o-rings well before you put them in.
 

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Yes, standard oil is fine, problem is that sometimes the o-rings can get hung up on the bore if dry and not seat properly, so a little lube ensures everything goes in straight...so to speak :eek:
 
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