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Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don't think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I've used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96

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Discussion Starter · #383 ·
Fbatwork said:
Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don't think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I've used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks for that...I will look into using them. I would think a custom cut sheet of 12x36 would be sufficient for both sides. When you cut the sheets, is there anything special to do to the edges?
 

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jbrentd said:
Fbatwork said:
Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don't think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I've used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks for that...I will look into using them. I would think a custom cut sheet of 12x36 would be sufficient for both sides. When you cut the sheets, is there anything special to do to the edges?
For a thinner veneer you can use a good pair of scissors or a razor / utility knife. For frays I trim any outlier strands and then use a clear lacquer to reseal the edge.

Size would depend on how much you want to cover - my sills cover the entire opening so they are 48" long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #385 ·
Decided to make a run to a local junkyard that had a cabriolet, just to see if there was anything worth grabbing. Glad I did because it had a good belly pan and a few other things I brought home. Didn't really need the B4 hood stuff, but figured it was worth the effort since it was "all you can fit on a wheel barrel for $80" day.

I should have grabbed the window regulators, brake booster and few other things.







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Discussion Starter · #389 ·
Yeaterday, I bled the new master cylinder, connected the hardlines, ABS pump, booster, rack, stabilizer, and tie rods. Also spent way too long fumbling with the battery cable grommet.

I'm trying to figure out where to cut the fuel tank vent line that goes to the evap canister. I am switching to an evap canister that goes in the fender. I think I might just cut it down low where it turns up in to the engine bay and run a rubber fuel hose to the evap.





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You can go straight up a bit with the hard line and make the connection then go out to the fender-well

 

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Discussion Starter · #392 ·
More stuff making its way back on today. 3B wiring harness and what's left of the 7A wiring harness, coil, bomb, washer tank, hydraulic fluid reservoir, new hood release cable.











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Discussion Starter · #393 ·
Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

I also attempted to make a set of rubber flaps that go in the fender well around the tie rods. I think they turned out okay.













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Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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Discussion Starter · #395 ·
Fbatwork said:
Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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Thanks. I used this stuff, along with hole punches, rivets, and some plastic retainers.

NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/16" (.062") Thick x 11.8" Wide x 47" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G5211B6/re ... UTF8&psc=1

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jbrentd said:
Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

Positive post on the fan is the one with the big honking insulator on it. The one that's in contact with the body of the fan is ground/negative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #397 ·
Berserker said:
jbrentd said:
Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

Positive post on the fan is the one with the big honking insulator on it. The one that's in contact with the body of the fan is ground/negative.
Thanks, that's what I thought, but didn't want to assume.

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jbrentd said:
Fbatwork said:
Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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Thanks. I used this stuff, along with hole punches, rivets, and some plastic retainers.

NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/16" (.062") Thick x 11.8" Wide x 47" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G5211B6/re ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #399 ·
Anybody see an issue with using this for my chassis ground on my battery relocation? It's an m12 to m10 stud screwed in to captive nut on the frame rail for where the old procon10 bracket be used to be. I would shorten the m10 side so that it doesn't stick out so far.







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Looks like it should work well.

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