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Just make sure it's tight!! A flaky ground can be a nightmare.

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Discussion Starter · #402 ·
Fbatwork said:
Just make sure it's tight!! A flaky ground can be a nightmare.

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Definitely!

I also added a small length of negative cable to a post I can use for charging/jumping.

I think all I have left on the power/ground front is to make a new ground wire for the bell housing and to change the positive terminal on the 4 awg wire to the starter.



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Discussion Starter · #403 ·
Progress has been SLOOOWW!! Pretty typical for me in the Summer, with the heat and lots to do around the house. I've also started the process of building a dedicated detached garage/shop. I hope to break ground later this month. But here are a few small updates…

Test fitted some new wheels. TSW Revos, 4x108, 17x7 et45. I plan to paint or powder coat them and use a 10mm, 15mm or 20mm spacer.



I recently picked up a Kamei armrest. Think I might paint it grey and recover with grey vinyl or leather.





Lastly, I've been kicking myself for not doing a better job of labeling this mess. But I'm almost done and just have a couple non engine harness plugs to identify.



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Slow progress is still progress. Good choice of wheels by the way. Also is that armrest better than the ones on the B4's? Can't wait to see this thing running!

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Discussion Starter · #406 ·
55Audi said:
Slow progress is still progress. Good choice of wheels by the way. Also is that armrest better than the ones on the B4's? Can't wait to see this thing running!

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Not sure if it's better than the B4's armrest. I can only compare it to the B5's armrest and I would say it's not better than those. It's pretty basic, but seems like it will do the job. This one is actually made for the B2 platform, but the mount points have been widened to fit the B3 tunnel. And I had to make my own mounting hardware.

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Discussion Starter · #407 ·
Although I was able to get the auxiliary relay panel mounted up, but I don't think I'll be able to get the knee bolster on with all the guts hanging out below. :). Not sure if I can poke them in or will have to unplug everything and go about it a different way.



Did some test fitting of my 17x8 et35 Hockenheim's with some 15mm spacers that I bought for the Revo's. Might be a tad too aggressive.







Also got the transmission and front subframe in yesterday, but failed to take a picture.

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Discussion Starter · #408 ·
I couldn't pass up some local OZ Ultraleggeras. Had to test fit them. I think I'll sell the TSW Revos. The rear brakes look so small.



Spent way too much time today looking through my unorganized piles and boxes of parts for the original ground strap. Never found it, but I know it's around here somewhere. I did manage some time on the front suspension, as well.



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Discussion Starter · #409 ·
Both sides of the front suspension are on now. Just need to torque everything down. Also built a new ground wire for the transmission. I may have to bend the lug on the transmission in order to get the bell housing bolts on.





I was surprised to find the 3B's firewall bracket fit right in behind the coil. The holes lined up perfect. This is where I'll put the timing, rpm, knock, and O2 sensor connectors.



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Discussion Starter · #410 ·
Got the carbon canister relocated to the fender and hoses routed this morning.









Now, I've got a question. I bought an S2 AC line that goes between the drier and the evaporator from Audi Tradition. Problem is, the male fitting at the drier is M28 (bottom), but the stock fitting is M27 (top). Should I just tap the aluminum fitting on the drier? Anyone else run in to this issue?





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Discussion Starter · #411 ·
I found a local refrigerated truck service company to just swap the smaller collar from the old line over to the new line. Should work just fine. I really wish I could weld, like some of you guys.




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