Hall sender maybe? Or crank shaft position sensor?
Low idle , stalling when hot , aan engine in coupe,help
Ok so this all stated with the 1992 urs4 car had 280000km and a Volvo turbo the crank case breather Was open to atmosphere and and I assumed that the leak was the issue. After work one day the car would no longer build boost found out that the turbo on if way out so I parked the car and started the swap into my Coupe with a used oem turbo , manifold and all the other little bits got the engine In the car and running when hot the car was still having its idle issue low idle stalling when hot , went for a drive one night to the local car meet and the engine spun a rod bearing so I parked the car and decided to build a engine on disassembly of the it found issue after issue loose timing belt, loose crank bolt ,About an inch of play in the cam chain , miss matched spark plugs , and it was one hell of a mess
The new engine is now in about 60 km on it and the low idle ,stalling is starting after driving for any length of time as long as the engine is hot you come to a stop and the idle will drop to about 300 then hunt and intermittently stall I am out of ideas idle valve is good , injectors replaced ,
Any one had this issue
Thanks
Tyson
The new engine is now in about 60 km on it and the low idle ,stalling is starting after driving for any length of time as long as the engine is hot you come to a stop and the idle will drop to about 300 then hunt and intermittently stall I am out of ideas idle valve is good , injectors replaced ,
Any one had this issue
Thanks
Tyson
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
The hall sensor on the cam is just for starting from what I know and a crank sensor will normally cause a no start or only a no start when hot
I don't think the hall sender is only for starting but I could be wrong. Get Austin in here and he'll probably figure it out in a heartbeat.
I had a similar problem and a throttle position sensor on the tb cured it
I have replaced it with a used one adjusted it so it clicks when at full closed
What do you all think about a coolant temp sensor
What do you all think about a coolant temp sensor
Is your bypass valve good? No boost leaks? Checked your fault codes?
does the aan have a MFTS? maybe that things shot. I second all of austin's points too
Fault codes I have not checked when I scanned the car befor the fault I had was for n75 valve but it is replaced with a manual controller it has a arp bypass valve that vents in its factory location I can't see it being boost or vacuum leaks becaus the engine is now in a new car wit all new lines and cooler piping it occurred in both cars new and old
The temp sensor on the rear of the cylinder head what is its function and the mfts what is its function related to running as for that what is idle rpm on a proper running car aan
The temp sensor on the rear of the cylinder head what is its function and the mfts what is its function related to running as for that what is idle rpm on a proper running car aan
G62 coolant sensor at the back of the head is ECU coolant temp sensor. MFTS on the h20 mani is not used for ECU interruption on the AAN like it is on the 3B. Check fault codes.
Just did no faults just n75 open
Get it warm and the cool the crankshaft sensor and see if it corrects itself. I had a cracked connector on my hall sensor letting it randomly short out of the metal housing.
But if there was a issue do we not all think that a no start when hot would occurre the connections for all the sensor except the coolant sensor on the rear of the head are good the one on the rear seems to be cracked and I have a spare connector I'm going to swap it recheck all my sensor resistance values and tps wiring I see check engine lights and drivability issues on vw stuff all the time but I must be over looking something
One would think but it's best to check everything that's easily checked as sometime you'll get weird symptoms of things you'd never expect.
Little update checked the temp sensor on the rear of the cylinder head the connector was cracked and damage to the pins of the sensor possible that the wires were contacting each outer replaced the connector and sensor the car seems to run a little bit better I am going to re adjust the throttle valve and see where it goes from there
Update checked wiring to the tps sensor found resistance to be good on all wires to ECM adjusted throttle sensor and dash pot it was still having issues idling I checked for a voltage drop on the ground wire turns out both grounds were dropping voltage around 2 volts so I overlayed the harness to check if that was the total issue ran it seems to run good now by the test will be the drive after dinner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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