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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys, i'm looking to do all this stuff listed below, just looking for opinions on whether i should or not.....it's just money right? :wink:

big valve head.....yes definetly
lightweight lifters.......?
Ti retainers........?
inconel 35mm exhaust valves........?
cam....easy to say yes
definetly doing arp's, s4 metal gasket, valve job....

i guess i'm just not sure what's worth it. going to 35mm exhaust would be an extra $350-$400 with machining according to my shop and for what gains? Cam is obviously worth it based on hp/cost benefit. I'm thinking i'm getting to the point of diminshing returns with some of this stuff like Ti retainers and lightweight lifters. I'd be better off putting that $350 for valves towards a new header or whatever.......just thinking out loud, opinions are more than welcome.
 

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I've been thinking along the same lines...

I'm thinking of putting the 40mm IV's into my MC head instead of going out and getting a NF head and swapping the sodium EV's...

I don't need a cam because I already have one. However, if I didn't have one I would consider it a must...

Inconel valves? Having fried a valve before I'd like to get some.

Ti retainers and lightweight lifters: it'd be nice but not necessary. At least to me. :)

Head studs are a must. S4 headgasket I'm on the fence about.

Valve work I'd do any way since I'd have the head down at the shop for the IV work.

Have you considered porting/polishing the head and port matching the IM/EM? That's something I'd consider if you have the tools and knowhow...

Steve
 

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At a minimum I'd do:

-Headstuds - a must
-Metal HG-I can't even tell you how strong this combo is
-40mm intake valves
-Smooth out the ports a little and match the gasket, even a dremmel tool can do this
-The cam is really up to you. Some days I like it, some days I don't. Days when I have the header and turbo glowing from doing rips up to redline (80% of the time :bump: )I love it, otherwise when you stomp on the gas in traffic and realize you have to downshift, it kinda sucks sometimes. :oops:

Javad and I have gotten to 400+ hp on the basics without all the fancy stuff, but now that I'm there, I'm looking at the fancy stuff for just a little more power. That's where the 35 mm valves, ti retainers, light flywheel, and good port job come in. I will say that I wish I had inconel valves in there right now, because it's about the only thing on the motor that may cause its demise right now. :wtf:
 

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if your looking to upgrade, then why not just go with the best from the beginning. the 35mm exhaust valves may cost you "x" amout to put in now, but, when your looking for more power later, it'll cost even more then(disasembly, parts,etc,etc). i'm going with the good stuff from the start so i don't have to take apart an upgrade later. i know it'll take longer cause of money, but it'll be a total kick in the pants when it's done.

friendly advice.... :wink:
 

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He is the masta, you should probably listen to him. It will cost less in the long term. One word of advice though, accusump that motor if you put a really nice head on it. My cam journals and cam are shot and have been re-polished after :slap: doing hard launches and starving the engine from oil. The car still runs great, but my oil pressure never gets above 3 bar when hot, and even less when the oil's really hot. I always know I done F'd up when I finish racing someone and my lifters are making a nice racket afterwards. If I keep the oil about 1/3 to high it seems to fix the problem MOST of the time, but sometimes I just forget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmm stuff to think about!

my only reason for holding back on any of this is one "word" 20V.....
i'd rather put the money i'd spend on upgrading my 10V into assembling the parts for a 20V swap.

when it comes to porting i've never done it and am not sure what to do. I have a really nice dremel set maybe i should use it.

jim can you elaborate on two things? accusump, never heard of it but i can probably figure out what it does.....and matching the gasket? meaning make sure it's an EXACT fit? assuming you're talking about head gasket, yes?

thank guys. some well needed input.
jeff
 

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hey jim, what weight oil are you running? and why the oil starvation?
 

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Jeff,

When Jim say's "match the gaskets" he means using the intake and exhaust gaskets as templates to use for port matching the IM and EM...

Here's a great link with lot's of info.

Steve
 

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The Accusump is an oil accumulator that keeps the pressure constant. It's the next best thing to a dry sump system.

I've run Mobil1 15w50, currently trying Rotella T Syn 15w40.

Come to Denver and I'll show you why I get oil starvation :wink: Dumping the clutch at 5k throws everything around quite a bit, including the oil in the sump :x Ok, maybe I'll start being nice to the car, yea right.
 

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hey jim, i know you probably run the 15-50 for the cold weather starting, but if you run some 30w or 40w straight weight, you'll probably see better oil pressure when you engine is hot. 15w is pretty thin for a motor that has lots of miles and abuse on it like yours.

i never did catch how many miles are on your bottom end ?

nevertheless, the accusump is a good way to go. one day when i pull my engine out for my new balanced bottom end, i'm gonna baffle the pan a little and maybe install a trap door for the rearward oil control.
 

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An AAN windage tray helps for stuff like this, IME with the stock plastic baffle and a windage tray, and topped off oil, you shouldn't really have any problems, I don't on the track where I'm pulling more than 1G through a lot of the turns (with the Toyo R-Compound tires), and drag racing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok thanks steve. well maybe i'll give this stuff a try this weekend.

steve, the link wasn't there....and where'd you go for a while? haven't seen you around for a while! hope all's well!
 

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Ya, they are very sensitive to topping off, I always keep it half way between the marks.
 

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