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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got my monoblocks for dirt ass cheap. One was bent and cracked and they are all curbed decently. The one below is actually that one (it has since been straightened and welded). The cracked and bent one that had pretty bad curb rash. I did an amazing job at getting rid of the rash, not so much on the polish. Been reading on how to grind them down, sand them, prep and polish them. Should take about 10 hours a wheel ish probably more. Well I didn't even know how well I would be able to do them so here is what I did start to finish in an hour not really trying all that hard. I know its no where near the mirror finish I was going for. First time ever and honestly I am pleased. I can't wait to sand this bitch back down to 60 grit and do it again. Because I really feel like these will be great with a mirror or near mirror finish.




Doesn't look too horrible until you get close up on the spokes. You can really see where I slacked in sanding.



Oh and the recessed areas will be color matched with the car (teak brown). So I'm not worrying about polishing that part.
 

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Yikes!! 60 grit? ............ or did ya leave off a 0,,,,,,,,,, like in 600 grit.
60's like roofing shingles. (just a heads-up!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I know thats what every place I've read says to start with and then I work my way up to 2000. It would have been great if I put the time and effort into it the first time around.
 

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I had some good success with those Scotchbrite pads they sell for body work prep. They cut like beejeepers and don't clog so readily, then go onto the finer stuff.
 

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believe it or not I've had really good luck with sanding "Flap" discs and a 4" grinder...got some metal down to a mirror finish a few times. It works better once you have worn the "Flap" discs down a bit.
 

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A4V8swap said:
So I got my monoblocks for dirt ass cheap. One was bent and cracked and they are all curbed decently. The one below is actually that one (it has since been straightened and welded). The cracked and bent one that had pretty bad curb rash. I did an amazing job at getting rid of the rash, not so much on the polish. Been reading on how to grind them down, sand them, prep and polish them. Should take about 10 hours a wheel ish probably more. Well I didn't even know how well I would be able to do them so here is what I did start to finish in an hour not really trying all that hard. I know its no where near the mirror finish I was going for. First time ever and honestly I am pleased. I can't wait to sand this bitch back down to 60 grit and do it again. Because I really feel like these will be great with a mirror or near mirror finish.




Doesn't look too horrible until you get close up on the spokes. You can really see where I slacked in sanding.



Oh and the recessed areas will be color matched with the car (teak brown). So I'm not worrying about polishing that part.
Here is how i did my bbs rs's back in the day.
remove tires from wheels
use paint stripper to remove the clear coat from your wheels, no need to sand wheels, if there not damaged.
mount wheel on car, and use as a lathe
while wheel is spinning, use 80 grit wet sand paper to remove heavy road rash from the lip
with one hand, hold the sand paper to the spinning lip of the wheel
use your other hand to hold the garden hose, and just drizzle the water onto the wheel while sanding
once the heavy curb rash has been sanded out, you may work your way up to the finer sand papers.
I usually stop at 600 grit, as i prefer a machined look.
Polish with your favorite aluminum polish, using the car as the lathe
work smarter, not harder ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Second attempt! much much much better. Definitely passable as polished wheels. Butttt you can see swirls if you get close enough so I am going to take them down again one last time. I learned a lot already just need a little bit more practice.


 
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