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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, for my 4000q, after I am done with my current suspension and brake upgrades, I'd like to upgrade the engine, as the current engine is just not good enough anymore. It's lazy, got heat issues with oil (coolant temps are fine), so that needs to be replaced. (and I want some more power as well)

I have sourced a MC1 engine, and I have this stripped down by now, and it's currently getting checked by an engine overhaul shop.

This is my current plan:

  • MC1 short block rebuild , bearings, etc (already have)
  • MC1 head with MC2 camshaft (already have both)
  • modify head for extra coolant passages (the 3 holes to be made in the rear)
  • replace sodium exhaust valves with something new to prevent them from dropping
  • maybe do something to the intake valves (40mm NF/NG valves??)
  • JT/JS/KV intake manifold (already have)
  • VR6 throttlebody (already have)
  • GT28RS turbo (already have)
  • 10v fuel rail (ordered via 034ms)
  • 10v phenolic spacer (ordered 034ms)
  • MLS headgasket (ordered 034ms)
  • RS2 injectors (already have)
  • engine management to be sorted, probably VEMS

So now I have a few questions left:

  • what would be affordable flywheel/clutch combo on the 016 gearbox that's in the car?
  • what kind and where to get exhaust valves? (i think it's important to replace them after having had a long life already)
  • worth it to upgrade intake valves to larger size? (i'd rather leave them)
  • since the MC1 has such a low compression, i was thinking of having the cylinderhead shaved about 0.5mm , just to get the compression a bit up. What are your opinions on this?

The idea is to just have a reliable, not enormous power , but early on boost engine, somewhere around 300hp.
 

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Well, you will need bigger injectors. I'm running 440cc injectors in mine, and have them nearly maxed out with my k24 running 22psi.

As for the valves, I'm running a the 034 exhaust valves, and factory sized Intake valves with a NG(same specs as MC2) cam. You will probably want some higher rate valve springs. I think techtonics still sell valves for these too.

As for decking the head, I had mine trued up only. I haven't had any complaints. If you raise the compression too much, you will be fighting knock pretty quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, you will need bigger injectors. I'm running 440cc injectors in mine, and have them nearly maxed out with my k24 running 22psi.
Interesting, as the RS2 injectors are supposed to make 315hp with a little bit room to spare. Fuel pressure difference?
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As for the valves, I'm running a the 034 exhaust valves, and factory sized Intake valves with a NG(same specs as MC2) cam. You will probably want some higher rate valve springs. I think techtonics still sell valves for these too.
034 doesnt seem to sell valves for 10v engines anymore, looked on their website, nothing to be found. Why would i need higher rate valve springs? I don't plan to make this rev past it's original 6500rpm redline.

As for decking the head, I had mine trued up only. I haven't had any complaints. If you raise the compression too much, you will be fighting knock pretty quickly.
True, but from 7.6:1 to ~8.0:1 is not that much i would think?

Thanks for your answers!
 

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I'm running a set of seimens deka injectors from a Volvo S40 1.9t. they have an extended tip on them that works nicely with these heads. The reason those injectors probably won't be enough, is because the power #'s you are looking at are for a generally efficient head design. The 10v counter flow heads are well, not.

For valves and other items check here

The reason I suggest valve spring is to prevent the possibility of floating a valve. This will also make sure there are no possibilities of the valve "bouncing" at any RPM.

As far as upping the CR, I still wouldn't. The MC2 had a slightly higher ratio, but only something like 7.8:1. The combustion chamber of the 10v head doesn't do well with anything much higher without going to so thing like E85.
 
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