Recently Bought - Slow Project - 1994 URS4

3872 Views 30 Replies 10 Participants Last post by moys, Aug 31, 2013

moys

Discussion Starter · Jul 15, 2013

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1 - 20 of 31 Posts

morris400

· #2 · Jul 15, 2013

the car looks good minus the interior, wow thats rough. as fas as things to replace, i did my VC gasket, new axles, air filter, oil change, new oil pan bolts ( i was missing 8) , fixed powersteering leak ( big X screw on top) and new plugs, still need to do fuel filter and a cupple small things. maintance is the key as im sure you know since this is not your first audi. with the chip set and injectors i think you should be around 240 ish im not sure. the intake from what ive been told will only make you hear the turbo more.

how much did you pay if you dont mind me asking?

Hybrid_Hatch

· #3 · Jul 15, 2013

I'm curious what a "valve job" is that you are planning with the timing belt change?

The timing belt would be the first order of business if i had purchased the car. I'm impressed how well the paint bounced back (at least from the pics), I would have sad on a bag for the test drive, that interior is pretty nasty in my book.

Chip tunes are nice and can really wake these things up.

moys

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jul 15, 2013

Yes, the maintenance is the key, yes, this is my 4th Audi, I'll keep it up.

Dave, I'm planning on taking the head off and send it to the machine shop to do a complete Valve job, When I do that, I'll replace the Timing Belt/WP. The reason I won't do it right the way is because I checked the Timing Belt and it looks like it has been replaced not too long ago. So I'm not worried about it for now. But of course, for my own safety, I'll replace it. The paint, bounced back very well, I agree. However, if you take a closer look, it will show its age. But its really good, comparing with how the car was looking. I am working on the interior. As I type now, I'm in contact with the guy who's selling me the driver's seat and some other interior parts. I'll send pics as soon as I have updates.

Doing pretty soon(not this month because I have my mom visiting me from Brazil, so its in the garage for now, not being driven)

- Maintenance cited above
- Install the Side Markers
- Install the driver's seat and small interior parts
- Fix the Ac(not way to have a DD with no AC down here in San Diego)
- Put the stock wheels
- Check the rear suspension.

I have 2 more cars to share the $ invested haha I can't just throw all the money on it hahaha

Thanks guys!

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Hybrid_Hatch

· #5 · Jul 15, 2013

are you doing the head as preventative maintenance? If it were my car, I don't think I'd pull the head for no reason. These heads are very prone to cracking around the spark plug threads, into the seats of the valves. If i was going to pull the head. I would personally plan on replacing the head. I would get a second 7a head, have it prepped for aan use, replace the exhaust valves and then pull the head and put on the new one all in a day. BUT again I would only do this if i knew there was a problem with the head and it needed to come off, OR I was going big turbo and i wanted to know that I wasn't going to drop a valve.

morris400

· #6 · Jul 15, 2013

1k us is not too bad i guess, i had one offered to me before i bought mine for 2500. it was in rough shape. the interior was not as bad as yours but close. the exterior was bad, faded paint mis mached lights mis mached wheels. it burnt oil as well. i offered 1000 but he said hes firm at 2500 just cause the AAN is a sought after motor. i figured at 2500 its gonna cost me another 2500 just to fix what i can see is wrong (clutch was shot also). so i passed. the one i ended up buying i got for 3800 as is with a free axle and free saftey inspection. im probally 4250 into it now.

pkw

· #7 · Jul 15, 2013

known problem with the head?

photongreen

· #8 · Jul 15, 2013

Before you chip it upgrade the boost hoses with samco sport or similar silicone hoses. My car felt slow as hell till i discovered that the turbo to crossover hose had a huge hole in it.

And if it doesn't have it already upgrade to H.I.D's their like 45$ for a kit and makes a world of difference.

morris400

· #9 · Jul 15, 2013

more info on the hids please. i may look into this aswell.

photongreen said:
Before you chip it upgrade the boost hoses with samco sport or similar silicone hoses. My car felt slow as hell till i discovered that the turbo to crossover hose had a huge hole in it.

And if it doesn't have it already upgrade to H.I.D's their like 45$ for a kit and makes a world of difference.

moys

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jul 15, 2013

Yes, I would do the head as preventive maintenance, in also to prepare the engine for a future big turbo. As far as I know, there's no problems with the head, idle is perfect, no CEL or heating issues. But at 215.000 I figure if I do full throttle I might blown a head gasket. In case I do the head, should I use a head gasket to decompress the engine?

Also, do these engines have the sludge problems like the 1.8T ones have? I had to of these engines that I had to replace the oil pick up pipe. I am not familiar with these AAN, so sorry for this type of questions.

Also, the interior now, after the detailing, is not too bad and will look a lot better after I install the seat and the small missed parts. I'll post more pictures soon.

I was recommend to replace the hoses with samco for reliability, will do that too.

About the oil, one of the members here told he's using 5W30 Mobil. 034 recommends to use 20W50, I can't remember which one. What are you guys using? Or would use at 215.000? I think like he said 5W30 should be fine I was wondering if someone uses 20W50. About oil consuming, I have driven probably 200 miles only so I can't tell yet. Do these engines usually burn oil?

photongreen, where do I get the HID this cheap? Are they ok?

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Hybrid_Hatch

· #11 · Jul 15, 2013

ddm tuning has the HIDs i like.

No sludge issues with these motors.

if you are going to do the head, REPLACE THE EXHAUST VALVES WITH SOLID ONES

it is really easy to check to see if the head gasket has been replaced. the original one should have been a paper gasket, a replacement one would be a metal MLS gasket. below the intake manifold, and water manifold you should be able to see a metal tab, if you see it it has been replaced

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rogermoz

· #12 · Jul 16, 2013

Do HIDs really make that much of a difference without projection headlight housings? I haven't noticed it if it does.

pkw

· #13 · Jul 16, 2013

doing the head now is a waste. it should not blow with full throttle. do not use 5w30. it is too thin. 215k is not a lot of miles for an aan. HIDs are a nice upgrade. replace to silicone boost hoses even if you are running stock boost.

photongreen

· #14 · Jul 16, 2013

rogermoz said:
Do HIDs really make that much of a difference without projection headlight housings? I haven't noticed it if it does.

For me the difference was great i can see highway signs from double the distance away than using the stock bulbs, also the cutoff is actually pretty decent.

This is the website http://www.ddmtuning.com/ you don't have to add relays, i didn't and mine work fine. Get the 4500k option as anything else is too yellow or will have a blueish tint.

As for the the silicone hoses i got my samco sport from http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.p ... de=TCS146#

And for chips. You can find used... Mtm, or tap chips available from time to time. You can scour the classified or use other websites like www.audifans.com

If you haven't already join up at quattro world and introduce yourself

there's a vast assortment of knowledge on these cars. http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/

rogermoz

· #15 · Jul 16, 2013

I just wired my 200 headlights to be high when it thinks low are on and vice versa. Of course I aimed the headlights in the correct spots so I'm not blinding people. Works great but makes the low beams in the bulbs pointless.

ChrisAudi80

· #16 · Jul 16, 2013

I run 20W50, as well, even if I am only at 100k miles. I would leave the head alone until you go bigger turbo.
I'd say where to put your cash on this car is maintenance (Timing Belt, accessories belt, thermostat, water pump, silicone boost hoses), the interior and the AC. Check the bushing and the tie rods in the rear for the weird camber problem.
Also worth checking are the strut mounts in the front.

That will clean you out.

Hold off on the chip set if going bigger turbo later. I just sold my 034 Stg1 chip set.

moys

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jul 18, 2013

Thanks Chris,

Which Brand specifically do you use for the oil and every how long do you usually change it? I'll watch for the consumption, no idea what it would be.

ChrisAudi80

· #18 · Jul 18, 2013

moys said:
Thanks Chris,

Which Brand specifically do you use for the oil and every how long do you usually change it? I'll watch for the consumption, no idea what it would be.

I don't change it myself, but I think its Valvoline. I honestly don't think there is much difference between brands. It gets changed every 5000kms, (3200miles). I have virtually no consumption. It does sweat a bit of oil out of the rear of the valve cover gasket.

busmn280

· #19 · Jul 18, 2013

I was under the impression that the correct viscosity of oil to use for the 20vt was 5W-40. I've been using Pentosin HP-2 full synthetic. I'm sure those in the know will correct me if I'm wrong!

ChrisAudi80

· #20 · Jul 18, 2013

20W50 is recommended for cars running in hot climates. Thailand is such a place.
In a place like North Dakota or Wyoming, maybe not.

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