Recently Bought - Slow Project - 1994 URS4
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the car looks good minus the interior, wow thats rough. as fas as things to replace, i did my VC gasket, new axles, air filter, oil change, new oil pan bolts ( i was missing 8) , fixed powersteering leak ( big X screw on top) and new plugs, still need to do fuel filter and a cupple small things. maintance is the key as im sure you know since this is not your first audi. with the chip set and injectors i think you should be around 240 ish im not sure. the intake from what ive been told will only make you hear the turbo more.
how much did you pay if you dont mind me asking?
how much did you pay if you dont mind me asking?
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5,698 Posts
I'm curious what a "valve job" is that you are planning with the timing belt change?
The timing belt would be the first order of business if i had purchased the car. I'm impressed how well the paint bounced back (at least from the pics), I would have sad on a bag for the test drive, that interior is pretty nasty in my book.
Chip tunes are nice and can really wake these things up.
The timing belt would be the first order of business if i had purchased the car. I'm impressed how well the paint bounced back (at least from the pics), I would have sad on a bag for the test drive, that interior is pretty nasty in my book.
Chip tunes are nice and can really wake these things up.
Yes, the maintenance is the key, yes, this is my 4th Audi, I'll keep it up.
Dave, I'm planning on taking the head off and send it to the machine shop to do a complete Valve job, When I do that, I'll replace the Timing Belt/WP. The reason I won't do it right the way is because I checked the Timing Belt and it looks like it has been replaced not too long ago. So I'm not worried about it for now. But of course, for my own safety, I'll replace it. The paint, bounced back very well, I agree. However, if you take a closer look, it will show its age. But its really good, comparing with how the car was looking. I am working on the interior. As I type now, I'm in contact with the guy who's selling me the driver's seat and some other interior parts. I'll send pics as soon as I have updates.
Doing pretty soon(not this month because I have my mom visiting me from Brazil, so its in the garage for now, not being driven)
- Maintenance cited above
- Install the Side Markers
- Install the driver's seat and small interior parts
- Fix the Ac(not way to have a DD with no AC down here in San Diego)
- Put the stock wheels
- Check the rear suspension.
I have 2 more cars to share the $ invested haha I can't just throw all the money on it hahaha
Thanks guys!
Dave, I'm planning on taking the head off and send it to the machine shop to do a complete Valve job, When I do that, I'll replace the Timing Belt/WP. The reason I won't do it right the way is because I checked the Timing Belt and it looks like it has been replaced not too long ago. So I'm not worried about it for now. But of course, for my own safety, I'll replace it. The paint, bounced back very well, I agree. However, if you take a closer look, it will show its age. But its really good, comparing with how the car was looking. I am working on the interior. As I type now, I'm in contact with the guy who's selling me the driver's seat and some other interior parts. I'll send pics as soon as I have updates.
Doing pretty soon(not this month because I have my mom visiting me from Brazil, so its in the garage for now, not being driven)
- Maintenance cited above
- Install the Side Markers
- Install the driver's seat and small interior parts
- Fix the Ac(not way to have a DD with no AC down here in San Diego)
- Put the stock wheels
- Check the rear suspension.
I have 2 more cars to share the $ invested haha I can't just throw all the money on it hahaha
Thanks guys!
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5,698 Posts
are you doing the head as preventative maintenance? If it were my car, I don't think I'd pull the head for no reason. These heads are very prone to cracking around the spark plug threads, into the seats of the valves. If i was going to pull the head. I would personally plan on replacing the head. I would get a second 7a head, have it prepped for aan use, replace the exhaust valves and then pull the head and put on the new one all in a day. BUT again I would only do this if i knew there was a problem with the head and it needed to come off, OR I was going big turbo and i wanted to know that I wasn't going to drop a valve.
1k us is not too bad i guess, i had one offered to me before i bought mine for 2500. it was in rough shape. the interior was not as bad as yours but close. the exterior was bad, faded paint mis mached lights mis mached wheels. it burnt oil as well. i offered 1000 but he said hes firm at 2500 just cause the AAN is a sought after motor. i figured at 2500 its gonna cost me another 2500 just to fix what i can see is wrong (clutch was shot also). so i passed. the one i ended up buying i got for 3800 as is with a free axle and free saftey inspection. im probally 4250 into it now.
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54 Posts
Before you chip it upgrade the boost hoses with samco sport or similar silicone hoses. My car felt slow as hell till i discovered that the turbo to crossover hose had a huge hole in it.
And if it doesn't have it already upgrade to H.I.D's their like 45$ for a kit and makes a world of difference.
And if it doesn't have it already upgrade to H.I.D's their like 45$ for a kit and makes a world of difference.
Yes, I would do the head as preventive maintenance, in also to prepare the engine for a future big turbo. As far as I know, there's no problems with the head, idle is perfect, no CEL or heating issues. But at 215.000 I figure if I do full throttle I might blown a head gasket. In case I do the head, should I use a head gasket to decompress the engine?
Also, do these engines have the sludge problems like the 1.8T ones have? I had to of these engines that I had to replace the oil pick up pipe. I am not familiar with these AAN, so sorry for this type of questions.
Also, the interior now, after the detailing, is not too bad and will look a lot better after I install the seat and the small missed parts. I'll post more pictures soon.
I was recommend to replace the hoses with samco for reliability, will do that too.
About the oil, one of the members here told he's using 5W30 Mobil. 034 recommends to use 20W50, I can't remember which one. What are you guys using? Or would use at 215.000? I think like he said 5W30 should be fine I was wondering if someone uses 20W50. About oil consuming, I have driven probably 200 miles only so I can't tell yet. Do these engines usually burn oil?
photongreen, where do I get the HID this cheap? Are they ok?
Also, do these engines have the sludge problems like the 1.8T ones have? I had to of these engines that I had to replace the oil pick up pipe. I am not familiar with these AAN, so sorry for this type of questions.
Also, the interior now, after the detailing, is not too bad and will look a lot better after I install the seat and the small missed parts. I'll post more pictures soon.
I was recommend to replace the hoses with samco for reliability, will do that too.
About the oil, one of the members here told he's using 5W30 Mobil. 034 recommends to use 20W50, I can't remember which one. What are you guys using? Or would use at 215.000? I think like he said 5W30 should be fine I was wondering if someone uses 20W50. About oil consuming, I have driven probably 200 miles only so I can't tell yet. Do these engines usually burn oil?
photongreen, where do I get the HID this cheap? Are they ok?
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5,698 Posts
ddm tuning has the HIDs i like.
No sludge issues with these motors.
if you are going to do the head, REPLACE THE EXHAUST VALVES WITH SOLID ONES
it is really easy to check to see if the head gasket has been replaced. the original one should have been a paper gasket, a replacement one would be a metal MLS gasket. below the intake manifold, and water manifold you should be able to see a metal tab, if you see it it has been replaced
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No sludge issues with these motors.
if you are going to do the head, REPLACE THE EXHAUST VALVES WITH SOLID ONES
it is really easy to check to see if the head gasket has been replaced. the original one should have been a paper gasket, a replacement one would be a metal MLS gasket. below the intake manifold, and water manifold you should be able to see a metal tab, if you see it it has been replaced
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54 Posts
For me the difference was great i can see highway signs from double the distance away than using the stock bulbs, also the cutoff is actually pretty decent.rogermoz said:
This is the website http://www.ddmtuning.com/ you don't have to add relays, i didn't and mine work fine. Get the 4500k option as anything else is too yellow or will have a blueish tint.
As for the the silicone hoses i got my samco sport from http://www.fourseasontuning.com/index.p ... de=TCS146#
And for chips. You can find used... Mtm, or tap chips available from time to time. You can scour the classified or use other websites like www.audifans.com
If you haven't already join up at quattro world and introduce yourself
there's a vast assortment of knowledge on these cars. http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/
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I run 20W50, as well, even if I am only at 100k miles. I would leave the head alone until you go bigger turbo.
I'd say where to put your cash on this car is maintenance (Timing Belt, accessories belt, thermostat, water pump, silicone boost hoses), the interior and the AC. Check the bushing and the tie rods in the rear for the weird camber problem.
Also worth checking are the strut mounts in the front.
That will clean you out.
Hold off on the chip set if going bigger turbo later. I just sold my 034 Stg1 chip set.
I'd say where to put your cash on this car is maintenance (Timing Belt, accessories belt, thermostat, water pump, silicone boost hoses), the interior and the AC. Check the bushing and the tie rods in the rear for the weird camber problem.
Also worth checking are the strut mounts in the front.
That will clean you out.
Hold off on the chip set if going bigger turbo later. I just sold my 034 Stg1 chip set.
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I don't change it myself, but I think its Valvoline. I honestly don't think there is much difference between brands. It gets changed every 5000kms, (3200miles). I have virtually no consumption. It does sweat a bit of oil out of the rear of the valve cover gasket.moys said:
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20W50 is recommended for cars running in hot climates. Thailand is such a place.
In a place like North Dakota or Wyoming, maybe not.
In a place like North Dakota or Wyoming, maybe not.
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