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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't get the spark to come and I'm running out of time and ideas.

Everything seems to work fine but the spark.

When I run my spare distributor by hand, I can hear the injectors clicking at the right order, the fuel pump is triggered and rpm shows at the monitor.

The trigger to the coil shows 5V (I though it should be 12V) at each triggering, but neither of the 3 coils on hand generate sparks.

Does anyone knows what voltage should show accross the terminals 1 and 15 when the ignition is on?

Plan B

If I can't make it work in the next few hours, I'm going to plug back the ignition module from the CIS-E and use the 034 just for the fuel and deal with this issue later.

Later,

Carlos.
 

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Have you tried connecting a test light to the coil trigger output? One of the light leads to +12v and the other to the coil output, see if it blinks at all?

I really would work on getting this working with the 034 system rather than the CIS E3 ignition. Have you tried running it w/o the inline resistor yet?

As for your questions: You won't see much of any voltage across the coil terminals while it's not sparking, and when there is voltage it'll be there only for very short moments as the 034 system charges the coil, measuing by a multimeter wont mean much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't put a light but I could see the voltimeter jumping at the "right" time. I removed the resistor and nothing.

I would love to use the 034 only, and eventually that's what I'm going to do. The CIS-E is just temporary.

I'm trailering Friday morning to the race and between now and then I have to:
1. Pack (tires, parts, tools, etc...).
2. Take the car to the muffler shop to finish the new header install.
3. Take it to the cage welder to add two new required bars.
4. Tune what's possible (now is running on TDC and no idle).
5. Normal life (work, take daughter to basketball practice, etc.)

If I just make to the race in one piece I'll be happy.

I really don't understand why I don't get the spark. The hall sender is working, the coil is working, I get 12V at the terminal 15 and spikes from the coil trigger when it's disconnected, and 12V from the terminal 1 when connected.

Thanks for all the help and support and I'm sure I still need more of them.

Carlos.
 

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Wait, how EXACTLY are you conecting the 034 system to the coil you have? The big 3 pin connector (with the transistor between it and the coil), or the two nuts directly on the top of the coil itself?

You want only the coil, not the transistor in there at all. It (the transistor system) works essentailly in reverse, requiring a +12v signal to create a spark, and there is no need to use it anyway with the 034 system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nate,

Trust me I tried ALL combinations, but one never knows...

My coil has only 3 terminals:

Positive - Two wires (both OE) constant switched 12V.
Negative - Green Wire (from the ignition module) and BLK/RD/YE from the oil pressure control unit. (mostly 12V than broke by the ignition module to provoke each spark)
Center - Spark output to the distributor.

With the 034 only:

Positive - kept unchanged
Center - kept unchanged
Negative - Tried with just the 034 ground trigger (green/tan) or combined with the oil pressure control unit (BLK/RD/YE)

I'm suspecting that I need to have a MC coil to fire the 034 since it has another terminal that could stablish the circuit , but this is just a guess.

Now I have the ignition module controlling the spark and the 034 receiving the hall signal and controling the fuel (coil ground trigger not being used).

Any ideas?

Thanks for the help,

Carlos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jim,

As I said on my post I tried both ways, i.e., with just the 034 trigger wire connected to the negative terminal of the coil and with both.

So, at the moment I ran out of ideas beside using a MC coil. I don't think there is anybody using a coil like mine, so it seems the only factor not covered here.

Another thing that I didn't do is use a 12V on the positive side that is not the OE one, but I don't think it's the problem.

Thanks,

Carlos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You're absolutely right.

I'm going to find out that something really simple caused all this havoc.

Later,

Carlos
 

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Carlos, I've tested all kinds of coils with the system, I can assure you that your coil is compatible, MC coil is not required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was just wondering. Honestly it doesn't make sense that I have to use the MC coil.

What about using an independent source of the switched 12V that has nothing to do with the OE wiring onthe positive side and just the 034 trigger on the negative side?

Later,

Carlos.
 

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Well, you could just use a positive lead straight from the battery for test purposes, or any switched ignition source will work.

Just for a test, Carlos, why don't you try using pin 5 for the coil trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Pin 5?

It's not mapped on the IIB connector.

What does it do?

Thanks,

Carlos.

ps. please read my recent post. I would love to ditch the OE ignition.
 

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Yes, well, you have 7 spare ignition drivers, if you will =) I've only mapped one to use, but it might be worth trying a different driver. I'm skeptical since this is unit #2 that its anything with the ECU, but worth a shot.

Oh yes, we'll be rid of that stock ignition soon enough, get to your race though, don't want to miss that.
 
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