Well, depending on how bad of shape it's in, they're real easy to work on. You can get a kit for under $100 that includes all the bolts, seals and bearings. If it doesn't need balanced and the shaft hasn't been scored or heated up to bad, you can just take it apart, put new parts in and put it back together exactly as it was. These are the only guys I've ever dealt with Turbo wise.
I believe they charge around $250 for a rebuild, but don't hold me to that.
If the bolts aren't to rusted, just the seals are under $50, might be worth a try on your own. You may need to take some pics of your thrust bearing as there's a few different ways they might be sealed.
Yea and actually I knew that,and it was caused by over boosting. I also have some oil creeping passed the bearings which told me they are bad. The
wastegate diaphram split which made the car overboost...30 psi I think?
I would rather Pay a good shop to do it rather than monkey it myself.
What could I possibly save? $50? Ehh I'll work an hour of overtime instead
and make my boss happy.
034 103 623A - Restrictor (should be in the $30 range from a dealer)
074 103 609F - gasket, 1mm (could probably just use the standard gasket?)
There is no plastic shroud piece for the 20v's that I've found. Just a goofy piece that allows the suction tube to sit on, or almost on, the sump bottom of a 20v (on the 7A sump, it sits ON the bottom, cars with the full-length baffle, it'll be a few mm off the bottom). Unless you want the one for the 10vt pan?
I'm using (since the 10vt pan interferes with the B3 radiator) the 7A's sump on the MC, which means I'm using the 7A's suction tube. Which means I have the MC suction tube + plastic baffle laying about. I cannot imagine ever needing it again.