[the_natrix]

if you do go oversize valves, you can use the kit for the 12v vr6 and have the ends reground to the correct installed height.

do not bother getting new valve seats. the factory valve seats are big enough and can accept a bore diameter increase from a COMPETENT machinist.

the worst part of this motor is the attrocious port matching audi let slip by in the factory. the intake to head is beyond rediculous.

 

[the_natrix]

i have a friend thats going to take care of this part for me
and im not planing on taking of too much, just to even it all out

to do list:
bored MAF & TB
high flowing (no cat and only 1 muffler) exhaust is already in tact
hoping to find some cams (maybe schrick)
megasquirt n maybe some injectors?..

any other suggestions for a slight NA build?

also stiff bushings and subframe/engine/tranny mounts from 034
and B&G springs with KONI shocks
spec clutch n lighter flywheel

do not waste your time on megasquirt for this motor. you have sequential fuel injection and wasted spark ignition with cylinder selective knock sense and bla bla bla bla.

megasquirt CAN work but its too primitive for this motor.

Keep the stock engine management, and either get a chip from 034 or get a FI system that has both sequential injection and injection.

 

[the_natrix]

thanks a lot for the info everyone!

im coming back with some questions for u guys:

ChrisAudi80, i have the MS300 and i was planning on getting megasquirt2
and is this what you are talking about? http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... s_id=18022
and thanks a lot for the links! im thinking im going to have to do it myself now that i have that

the_natrix, so your saying that megasquirt2 wont be any good for accurate/better tuning of the engine?

zarati, cant wait to see the pics :woowoo:

here is the problem. megasquirt and megasquirt2 do not have enough inputs outputs to PROPERLY support this motor.

you need 6 injector drivers, 3 ignition channels, atleast one crank input, 2 more gp outputs for the changeover valve on the intake and idle control valve. megasquirt does not have this.

doing this you lose knock control, cylinder selective adjustments, EGR, EVAP, you reduce your ignition timing resolution too. not to mention you lose the great idle/coldstart/warmup the existing tuning and management provides!

if this was a GM v6 from the early 90's this would be not much of a problem for megasquirt, but it isnt.

You are better keeping the stock management and getting a chip in there. again. mms200 ecu is what you need for that, but thats easy to source from ebay if you know what to look for (audi 100 92 v6).

im all for megasquirt, but it has its limitations. and while you can push the limits on it, it all depends on your technological skills and what sacrafices your willing to make. I personally see to many sacrafices to be made on this motor by installing megasquirt.

 

[the_natrix]

dont worry about anal accuracy. as far as porting is concerned the factory ports in the head are quite good vs the 10v. i know bla bla bla they are "so similar" but they are also VERY different at the same time. the 12v has a much steeper approach angle to the valve meaning a whole hell lot less turning and restricting that the air has to do to get into the cylinder.

if you have some time i would order new valve guides and taper the new valve guides or shorten them so that they block less airflow into the motor too, press them in and bam instantly more airflow for nearly no cost.

the real key is to look at the inner radius of the bend from the port to the valve seat run your finger on that area and feel for casting and cutting inconsistancies or burs, get it all nice and smooth.

open up the exhaust side too, get your exhaust gaskets and first mount them to the head and trace and cut, then mount them to the manifolds and WOW another audi accountant port job eh? cut that manifold to match the gasket and double check fitting on both the head and the manifold again.

make sure you get everything all cleaned up, the exhaust is the more restrictive side on the 2v motors and it needs to be able to FLOW

next do not forget to port match the intake manifold to the heads too... a quicker rough job can do it here.

the rest of the intake manifold isnt so bad, and you can usually let it slide.

there is no need for anal precision like mance did on his, you can do a "russian" style job and get very VERY good results out of this engine. ( the russian reference is to the russian space industry... do just good enough for what works, ie welds on some space craft structures look like total shit but do the job... but then where it is needed their welding was superior to american space craft, eg the cooling tubes on the engines nozzles. and lastly the pencil vs the million dollar american space pen)

anywho its too easy to spend time looking for precision where it isnt needed. just get it flowing smoothly and let the rest of the engineering do its stuff.

once you are there your pretty much done

the throttle body bore mod is pretty easy to accomplish via a hole saw carefully guided and a matching peice of exhaust tubing jb welded into place. this however IS a job for a drill press, better to get a spare throttle body and do it on that than risk your only throttle body to damage.

dont forget to clean out your EGR ports in the manifold and install the bigger maf if you have an earlier small maf (4 wire). just change over the sensors from the mafs and you have no fancy wiring to do. just knock out the tamper plug and adjust the idle mixture and boo yah.

i have done several tests on my car and after this you should easily be hitting 190hp if not more.