Volvo 740 with Audi V8, Biturbo and Quattro driveline "AWDsome"

4740 Views 65 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Wibe_, 21 d ago

Wibe_

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hello everyone.

I've been around here for a while now reading on many different projects so I thought it was time to share my own project. I've been building this for a while, so it will be a bit old information in the beginning, but still suggestions are welcome because it isn't finished yet and things can always become better.

I've got this car 19 years ago. It's a 1987 Volvo 740 TIC (turbo intercooler). First thing i did was of course to strip it down, repaint it, body kit, big stereo and such things as I guess almost every 18 year olds do to their first car?
So the color of choice was a Volvo "R" color named "Flash Green Metallic". It turned out pretty neat, and with 3x the factory boost it moved alright too. I think it was one of the quicker Volvos in town by that time.

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Anyhow. I guess for some of us a powerfull engine is fun, so the hunt began for something more fun in this thing. Volvos I5 swap is really common and I6's starting to get normal too, so it wasn't really appealing enough. While doing the swap it would also be great to get enough grip since the oem rear axle almost everytime wants to do one wheel burnouts.

So I had this German imported thing standing in my driveway, not registered in Sweden so I couldn't drive it on the roads.

I guess what's about to happen will probably upset few readers, but I began to strip the front end out of the Audi and took out the subframe, suspensions, engine and gearbox.

It's the older 4.2l 32v V8 lump in this car. Before I got the car from Germany, it was imported from Italy, so it was converted to run on gas/LPG, some of the components are visible on the comming picture.

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After some searching on the Internet and help from a local Audi dealer I got my hands on this information about the fix points of the front cradle.

So, with the tape measure in my hand I started to measure on the Volvos frame rail. It was alot of measuring to get it all centered and so everything would fit alright within the volvos body. First of the front fixing points came to place, just a notch wider than the oem rail but with a little triangulation it should keep it together.

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The other side came along aswell, just copy the first side and it was done.

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When they were done I could start triangulate for the rear points, I had to cut a bit more of the rail and make more of a cup to make the subframe fit, the rail was also wider than the subframe so i had to make a wedge in to the center to support it.

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And as the front one's, when one side were done it was just to copy it to make it work on the other side.

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When the new attachment points were done, the Audi cradle fitted nicely within the Volvo 👍

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I also had to gut the Volvo strut towers to make the massive Audi suspension come through, pieces of cardboard and metal became a model of where I needed to cut out to make place.

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So, I guess this will be the start of this project since I only could attach 10 pictures.
As said, I've come a bit further than this, but I will get there eventually.

I hope you will enjoy this project despite the sacrilegious unity between the car brands 😊

Until next time

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #2 · 4 mo ago

So, the mockup starts, as the earlier picture of the subframes fixing points, I also got my hands on the fixing points for the struts. Made me a simple jig out of some wood and started to clear out to fit the struts in the chassis.

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Took the cardboard and transferred it to two metal plates to go on top of the struts to start make new towers. The Audi is an aluminium spaceframe and the Volvo is regular metal, so I couldn't use the aluminium to join in the project car on a easy way and also because of regulations.

Fixed the new plates up with the jig and used some tubing for the bolts to go in to try make it a bit stiffer.

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Then I started to build the towers of sparemetal from donor Volvos strut towers.

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New wheel arches was made.

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After some time the towers were starting to take good shape.

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New cut-outs were made in the framerails to make room for the front halfshafts between gearbox and front wheels

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Nearly completed towers, but enough to attachs the Audi subframe and suspension within the volvo chassis.

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Of course I had to try the engine aswell 😊
Way in the front, so not the best placement compared to the oem style place for the engine (almost all the way back against the firewall)

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But this would give me alot of place to tuck away other things since I have almost 35cm (roughly one foot) of space from the firewall to the engine, or atleast I thought I had alot of room 😅

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #4 · 4 mo ago

jonas-k said:
Now, place a bland econobox FWD engine into an UrQ, and you may get some interesting comments.

Yeah, I've heard similar stuff about this engine swap from Volvo enthusiasts regarding this project 😅
But the volvo platform with their rotated engine placement and awd wasn't really appealing to me even though it probably had been easier to swap in more of the donor car bodywork and just weld it in place, atleast saved much on fabrication time 🙂

Hope I won't disappoint 😁
The goal is to achieve as much hp/nm as possible with the most grip as possible for a reasonable amount of money 🙂 So i figured this is a good base to start on. Also it will be street legal here in Sweden, so I must follow some general rules when it comes to stuff, if things might seem bananas it could be because of that 😅

One of theese rules are that I shouldn't grind down welds before they are judged and cleared ok by a inspector, otherwise i might have to do them again just to show that they are ok or something like that, and the inspector comes 2 times to check on the build. First when it's a rolling chassie, so pretty much everything is in place (engine doesn't need to run though) and gives me a list (hopefully with 0 faults) to fix, and when I think the car is done they come again to check it's ok. Also there are demands on noise (intake, exhaust...) so a db driveby test, exhaust emission and such. 🙂

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #5 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

So I sourced out a manual gearbox instead of the automatic one from the donor car. Gearbox of choice fell on a diesel one from A4, code ENV. Of course a 01E to get along with the V8 🙂 It should have the wide 1st and flexible shaft along with connections for an external oil cooler (red plugs).

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I also got my hands on a matching rear diff, code ETS, in a fine condition. Only problem that it was a bit to wide for the s8 frame, so i had to swap the output axles since I do not own a lathe.

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Also the rear brace had to be swapped, the A4 brace was to much different from the S8.

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It doesn't look like much difference, but one is a bit longer than the other one. Too long to make the rear shafts move freely enough in my opinion. If I remember correct now, it was pressed all way to the most inner state, and I wanted some play within it.

One problem i git with the engine is that the oilfilter location sucks. Well it's easy enough to acess, but it fouls the Volvo frame rail. So I had to find a solution to this one.

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And on the other side, the wheel for the power steering pump is too big diameter. You can see the center guidepin on the pump within the center hole.

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The older PT engine has a power steering pump with a smaller diameter wheel. The rib on the belt is the same, but the pump doesn't fit the newer style attachment in the engine. And I dont know what happens if you put the smaller wheel on the newer pump. It will rotate much quicker, so how much damage could that make on the pump if it rotates way too quick 🤔

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So while looking for solutions i began to make an easy mockup for the steering rack, so I could make something better.

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A new hole had to be made in the firewall, and this of course fouled the brake pedal along with the brake booster..

From the inside one may see that the new hole for the steering is about 5cm (2") higher than the standard fitting.

So, now I had to source out an solution for the oil filter, something for the power steering and a solution for the brake pedal.

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #6 · 4 mo ago

One of the things that I had plenty of, was lack of space to do things on 🤦‍♂️ but yeah, just get along and do what one can do with the space one has I guess

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So I had to roll out the project in the carport everytime I wanted to do anything on it, and roll it back in again when tje day was over or I had to stop.

With some exterior in place it looked almost like a car again. The Audi have a wider track than the Volvo and I don't want to get narrower tires, so I'll stick with the 245's and gonna make some sort of widebody instead.

Started on the rear to make the rear subframe fit on the Volvo to ease the job of keep rolling in/out the project. Got my hands on this Volvo 960 cradle and spring support that i figure I could use for something. It's attached in the body with 5 screws so it should be enough to support the Audi sub, atleast on one side.

I made an easy copy of it since the Volvo ones didn't fit, of course. The thing was that I tried to make it reversible if I at some point wanted to bail out and go another route. But i wasn't really happy with this layout either.

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So I measured again the width of the Audis cradle fixpoints, cut of the cups i made, got a wooden bar and attached it to the cups. With a jack i managed to lift it up and keep in place so I could weld them in place

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So I Did 4 of these, one in each corner, so I could mount the audi cradle.

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After that i started looking at spring location and support. Had to cut very little in the frame to make it work. So a circular plate was made and mounted in the frame.

An outer support were also made and welded in place.

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Here it is with the cradle in place and speing in its location.

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And voilà, the car stands again on 4 wheels.
In this picture the spring isn't mounted in place, but this is the height I want, I'm not a big fan of lowering the car so much that it make putting the tire within the wheelwell. If I want it lower I'll look into another dimension/height of the tire since the Audi diameter is almost 5cm (2") higher than the Volvo and that would make it possible to lower the car the same amount.

So now I had the car on all 4 and it became way easier to roll it in/out and work on it. Also it was a minor milestone to make it stand on wheels again, so it felt good.

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #7 · 4 mo ago

Here is the difference visible between the audi 245 45 18's vs the Volvo 185 65 15's. So technically I could lower the car just by swapping out for a lower sidewall. The catch of that is that the speedometer will get tricked, so some sort of "yellow box" or similar is needed then.

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Anyhow. The second attempt of a fixing was made for the steering rack. The thought were to use the horizontal plane to put the FPR, oil catchcan, windscreen washerfluid and such things on, to hide it a bit behind the engine.

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But i wasn't really pleased with this either. It took up to much place forward towards the rear of the engine. So I left it like this for a while trying to figure something better out. And you probably guessed it, this is my first project car that I have to come up with other solutions than just remodeling oem parts a bit with the grinder and welder.

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So I proceeded with the steering wheel assembly. Since i had the Audi rack I couldn't make it fit the Volvo assembly. Trying to figure out a good position.

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Here I have a volvo part that looks really great for this. That one is used in a 960 to hold the assembly in place.

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A bit cutting and welding did the trick 👍
And it has been way more stabilised and propper welded after this photo.

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Then I thought, what the heck, let's toss in the complete thing! So I went a bit bananas and got really surprised over how little differences there is to make this work

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After some giggles over how the dash probably gonna get me hanged, the project continued in the engine bay. Since the strut towers are selfmade I figured they needed support. So a simple bar was made, figured it would bolt up with 4 bolts, 2 on each side, to make it detachable to ease engine removal and such.

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But I wasn't sure it would be enough, so I fortified the top of the firewall and set an diagonal tube to it aswell.

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And again, I wasn't sure if that would be enough, so I made two more 🙈 So now it's hopefully triangulated enough to keep the new front geometry in place 🙂

I'm thinking of remaking the bar between the towers a little more to the back, so the tube meets the other two center tubes or atleast more towards the middle of the tops.

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #8 · 4 mo ago

The Audi parts car is much wider than the Volvo, leaving some demands on wider wheel arches to make clearence for suspension travel. I think it is almost 10cm per side (4") that needed to be done to make this work properly.

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On the rear it is a bit less, 8-9cm (near 3.5") to make room.

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I actually managed to fit the entire dash in the Volvo. It's a bit wide, so it interfere with the doors, but with some persuasion with hammer and grinder it will probably work. I stripped the Audi dashboard aluminum bar from attachment points (the smaller joints) and made my own and welded in the Volvo, so it turned out better than I hoped for.

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Even the centre console with armsrest sits pretty well. But prubably as usual theese early armrest is broken in the hinge where the bolt goes. So I purchased the facelift ones of Ebay, still laying in the package waiting to be mounted.

For the sharp eyed one, you also might see that i have taken the leather rear seat and tried to fit in the Volvo. I also tried the Recaro front seats, but they all became too high so you had your head in the roof. So no go for the Audi seats in the Volvo.

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Afterwards I went on with the e-brake. The Volvo one doesn't fot the Audi consoles, so the Audi one had to be mounted in the Volvo. Poor image quality on this one, but with some L brackets welded in place it works.

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On the underside i mounted the Audi oem dustcap.
I also went under the Audi and checked how the cables are attached and copied that design to my Volvo with some minor adjustments to make it fit and be strong.

Next up was the gear selector box. The donor car is automatic so I went to the nex towns scrapyard and sourced me an A4 selector. I also took the connection rods between the leveler and gearbox, but i found out that they wasn't for a 01E and was inverted, when trying to put in 1st gear it would have been 2nd, when trying for 3rd it had been 4th and when trying to put in 5th it would become 6th instead.

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The A4 selector boot/knob assembly with my donor cars fake wood trim

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The center console when in place. The E-brake trim is just on, not in propper place, it fits better than whats shown on this pic.

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So when all was in place, I took a large blanket and covered it all so I wouldn't damage anything and went on with the rest of the car. But of course I sat in the chair a couple of times imagine how this thing would be to drive.

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #9 · 4 mo ago

I went on making some easy enginestands to fit the smaller PT engine within the car.

But firstly the engine got placed on the spare cradle to mock up some gearbox stands

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So a set of fast/easy/sketchy ones were made just so I can testfit a V8 engine with a manual quattro gearbox in the volvo to see if it actually gonna fit properly with all the gearselector arms and such things.

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Some paint on them and down the rabithole it went

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It sits way in the front, just like the other v8 of course, so that will cause me some issues regarding radiator, ic, ac condenser

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But I actually had a good experience for once. The donor Audi has a 288,2cm wheelbase (113.46") and my Volvo has 277cm (109.1"). This seems to me that the propshaft needs to be shortened to fit on my project. But, the automatic transmission that sat in the donor i actually 11cm (4.33") longer than the manual gearbox 😲

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So the propshaft just fits like a glove 😲 No modifications needed 🙈

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I actually tried this afterwards, figure it would be awesome 😁

But I didn't want a bubble in the hood (I want it to be a sleeper, for some time atleast before everyone figures it out) And here in Sweden to keep it open like this would not be tolerated becaus Auntie Agda might get stuck in there if I would hit her with the car 🙈 Or something like that. It's too dangerous according the inspectors. So at this point I started to look at turbocharging instead.

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Well yeah, I also tried to put the entire electrical system from the donor in my Volvo.
Do I need to say it was a hell lot of cables? 😅
So this was a no-go. It was to much that I had to cut in almost every wire to make the length suit my smaller car, would've taken me forever to do 🙈

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 mo ago

So I asked a friend of mine how I should to with the compressor. If I should continue with it since I love torque more than horses. Nothing beats a good 0-100km/h (0-60mph) rather than topping of somewhere 300km/h (if the facts are right, the theoretical topspeed of the gearbox is 420km/h, 260mph). So he said to me, Turbos. Since i grew up with Volvo I started to look at Mitsubishi turbos, generally the 16T and 19T (the Mitsubishi one's are a common oem option on many Volvo's). I already had a 16T laying around from the last engine that was in this car, but he said no to them.

He said that he had a Holset HX35w (china) in his garage from a build that took another route so this was never used. But I needed one more because they were rather small he said. So I took it from him wondering why it was better than the other turbo I already had if this were so small.

Then I opened the package and was like, where the h*ll should I fit this one, it's really big 😅

The price of it? Like a 10th of what the BW turbo I was looking at shoukd cost me.

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So this is a 2l ice cream package, I think it's the biggest one in standard convenient stores, so when I show this pictures to other swedes, they know it's rather a big boy compared to the Volvo turbo.

I also wondered how the heck I should get this to spool up, but my friend was like "trust me", so I hope he knows what he has given me 😅 The engine is the 4.2l 32v engine, so there will be 2.1l (128cui) per turbo, just a notch more than the ice cream package its compared to in the pictures 😜

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So I went home, opened the hood and was like, where should this go? It would be fun if one opened the hood and like "👈 Turbos 😁👍" but I wasn't sure if it really would fit under the hood in such placement. Also the passenger side turbos exhaust would interfere with the chargepipe to the throttle

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On the other side it looks really big aswell.

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So I started to look at other Audis. Like googled a couple of days on Audi V8 TT's builds, how they did and so on. I also looked at RS models with oem fitment. So I tried that and it wasn't to bad after all. But the "Turbos 😁👍" wouldnt be there, but that also might be a good thing after all.

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The intake could fit right below the manifold, which of course would get heated, but it's doable atleast, so I knew from this moment that I needed a large IC to deal with the potential heat.

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So I took the OEM Boysen manifold and chopped all of, steipped it all the way down. As said, this is my first real build and I needed things to be rather easy for me. There are other wishes in the future such as stainless manifold, maybe a bigger single turbo, maybe two different sizes of turbo and so on. So easy peasy for now to make the car run and when I can drive it, evaluate it and have loads of fun, build an funnier upgrade 😊

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Yes thats a piece of Swedish railroad I got there, and no I didn't cause any railroad accidents while getting it 😜

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So the madness began with ordering short and long bends, and some tubing too, and off i were with my very first manifold build 🙂

Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #11 · 4 mo ago

So after some measurements I went on and took a piece of cardboard and made some sort of guide of which area I have the framerail on, and how much space there is to play on to make this work propperly.

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It's tight, but I know that from the beginning when I first saw the turbos size.

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But yeah, it seems manageable atleast

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So then I began with the manifold. Checking the firing order cylinder 1 and 3, 2 and 4 should be paired on the right side to make some sort of twin scroll application. Not 100% but then I had to make some sort of crossover from the other side, and then I had to really check the length of all runner etc etc. So as said earlier, easy does it.

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Test fit in car to give a hint that I'm going the right way. The aluminium tube is representing the intake tube for the turbo.

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So a bit more welding. Not the greatest skills, but it starts to become something atleast.

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Back in the car, still looks ok.

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Made a simple turbo stand to make it easier to see that I didn't come in the way for the driveshaft.

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And a last bend over the top to make it sit on the turbo. Looks a bit trashy, all the angles, not the perfect cut outs and so on. But I think it turned out good after all. In the future it probably will be switched out for a stainless one.

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I shortened the housing for the internal wastegate so it wouldn't interfere with the gearbox. But at a later point i shut the wg and removed the clock and went on with external gates.

Byt yeah, my very first selfmade manifold, with no experience before this, I felt rather pleased twith the results of what I manage to do. It sure isn't professionally made but hopefully it will hang on for a year or five so I can register this car as altered with engine and drivetrain swap, and then I can drive it and evaluate and make up my mind if I want to continue with twins or cahnge them to a single one and start making a stainless manifold.

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #12 · 4 mo ago

So then the left side started to take shape

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on this side cylinder 5+6 and 7+8 should be paired to make some sort of pulse split. Again, it isn't 100% correct because then one has to take 1+6, 3+5, 4+7 and 2+8 and that makes too much work for me and I know that I don't have enough space for that.

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Taking help from the right sides turbo flange to make it sit in the same height, trying to squeeze it as tight against the gearbox as possible.

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And finaly it support itself

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Here you could also see some Audi gearbox mounts that i sourced out, but it wasn't good enough for the S8 cradle, so theese are not used in the project car, but they might be used in the next one.

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Maybe a bit way towards the front, but I didn't want to risk having trouble with the steering rack.

Intake tubing and pressure tubes is planned to come on this side, so it will be tighter than on the other side.

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This is my old garage, and this is the space I had when working on this project. Probably too much crap, but I managed alright after all. Notice the V8 engine hanging in the upper left corner? The belt driven fan is visible. Also, I purchased another V8 (bottom left). It's almost identical to the one that I work on (AKH and AHC) so the thought is that i put one in the car and have a good time and while doing so I rebuild the other one and then swap them out.

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #13 · 4 mo ago

While I were doing the exhaust manifolds and waiting for parts that were ordered, I was doing the electrical on one of my spare engines. I didn't want to accidentally cut, grind or melt any cables while working on the manifolds.

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First of I used the oem coils, but these were swaped out later on. I heard that they were a bit unreliable.

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I did use the oem Audi eletric harness, and used almost everything on it, but I removed the 20 year old cableguards that were all dried up and cracked, instead I used new cable tape all over.

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This side is better tucked in than what this pic shows.

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Routed back and coming out just above the gearbox

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Left a longer cables so I could adjust the length to where I wanted to put connectors.

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When the manifolds were all done later on, I moved it to the engine I were working on.

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Next step were some gearbox supports. As earlier said I got the oem ones, but they didn't fit. So I made copies of them and angled them so they would fit properly.

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Same on the other side.

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And here are a mockup for oildrain of turbo, AN12 fitting welded on the tube.

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Timmy

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Wibe_

Discussion Starter · #14 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

Next on, some intake and charge pipes.
As they arrived at home, I discovered that 90dgr isn't always 90 dgr 🤦‍♂️ apparently it's hard for the machines to do true 2.5" 90dgr, nothing I was aware of before the purchase.

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But, work went on, I discovered that the angle was pretty ok after all for what I intended to use it for.

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So the thought is to route the passengerside turbo outlet under the gearbox over to the driver side turbo. In the centre there will be a silicone hose to join them together to give a little flexibility.

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Here it is on the driver side, unfortunately a tight 90dgr angle on the driver side turbo, did want it to be more smooth, but I dont have the skills to make it better. But the passenger side came along nicely on the inside.

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So I started to join them together, to make a single tube towards the intercooler.

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Here is the driverside piece. Do I need to say that this is my very forst time I've been welding aluminium? Doesn't feel good 😅 and compared to what one may see on internet, on carshows and so on, I dont think it looks particularly great either 😅
But as long as it holds together I'm gonna have fun 😁

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Right in front of the cradle I also had to put a sharp turn downwards to clear the ac compressor.
Since this is my first build, I'm not sure at all on dimensions. But the area of two 2.5" pipes adds up to a 9.81sqin which is bigger than a single 3,5" that is a total of 9.61sqin, so I went with the 3.5" because I think it's pretty big after all and I don't have room for bigger, and I honestly don't know if a single 2.5" or 3" tube instead of the 3,5" would be a better alternative. Everyone I asked gave me no answer, so I went with gutfeeling.

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I chopped of the very top of the compressors, to remove the edge that can hold a silicone hose.

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Then I chopped a bit length of a 4" V-band adapter

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That went beautifully right over the turbos inlet.
So here I started to weld it on place by the base all the way around, because I need a swift turn to go by the exhaust manifolds on each side. The silicone hoses I found in 4" diameter wasn't right in the shapes and I also think that they might melt from.the heat, so I had to go with aluminium and this felt good.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · 4 mo ago

I managed to get my new manifolds to a workshop so they could be machined down and become leveled. It wasnt much on the part where it mounts to the engine, but the adapter to the turbo was more to machine down.

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I also saw this when the internal wastegate opens up, this is all it opens before it is against the backplate, and it is only in one of the chanels (twinscroll). No wonder some applications have overboost issues 🙈 I can't even fit a finger in there.

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Anyhow, the intakes are comming together, working around the exhaust

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Another turn to come up leveled again.

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And another turn to come out in the enginebay.

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same on the other side. But it was tighter on this side. Cylinder 8 is a bit more rearwards and with the chargepipe it became more tricky and interfered more with the exhaust.

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But after all it came along as best I could.
After this I've heard from a guy that 3" tube would be sufficient for intake. But as previously, I don't have enough experience so I had already made theese 4" intakes since the turbo housing is made for 4".

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Here I also made some turbo supports down against the gearboxmount. In this pic it's tacked against, but it's remade and now have a thicker plate with 2 screws.

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The other side got one also.

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It started to look good after all.

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Discussion Starter · #17 · 4 mo ago

dspl1236 said:
keep up the work! It is awesome to see.

Thank you, and I will. I do have a bit more to post before progress starts to slow down 😅

But anyhow, I went on with the exhaust system. Stainless 3" downpipes squeezed at the top to fit ok on 2,5" V-band connectors.

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Same thing on the other side 👍

Passenger side turbo gets a little more angle in the top inwards to get it as close as possible to the gearbox to clear the cars frame.

The jackstands, as stable as they might be, wasn't the best to work on, so I swaped all 4 of them out to this homemade stand instead. Also making the engine come up to a better work height.

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Then the fun began with the rest of the wiring harness

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And when that was done, a support for the radiator came up on place

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Also a nracket for the coolant reservoir.

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I bought 2 16-pin connectors and installed them mid-gearbox, so if I have to remove the engine I don't need to remove all engine harness since the engines computer will sit inside the car and not in the enginebay.

And this update will finish with this package.
The biggest IC my car could fit, 3,5" in/outlet, 24"x14"x4,5" core. 1.5" external wastegates, stainless 3" flex, MAC-valve, some AN fittins and some ptfe hose for that 🙂

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Discussion Starter · #18 · 4 mo ago

I think I forgot to mention that I removed the oem oilfilter/oilcooler since I had problems with it hitting my Volvo framerail, but also by doing this I more easily will get an oil supply for my turbos.

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I put an T-cross with an12 for the oil feed/return to/from oilfilter and an an4 supply for the turbos. It goes right behind the passenger side turbo intake.

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I also took the oil pan off and welded in an12 fittings for oil return from turbos, here is the drivers side.

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And here is the passengerside oilreturn.

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A better view of the oilfilter relocation kit, oilfeed to the turbos and the oilreturn from the passenger sides turbo is done here.

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I've also removed the exhaustmanifolds again, this time I'd tried to make something for the wastegates. Since it's twinscroll, I tried to keep it as separate as possible while venting both sides. Again, I have done as best as I could and I don't know if this will actually work.

The wastegate is in position and I started to plumb it back into the exhaust system. This will be a street car so I'm not allowed to go screaming pipe.

A flexible joint and the third time welding stainless steel, got it alright atleast, I think 🤷‍♂️

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Here the downpipe is in place, the oilfeed to the turbos are also visible here.

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And then I did the same on the drivers side, but didn't get the angle on the downpipe as good, so a bit more welding making it look uglier. Also, if you look closely I did the tube for the driverside equal length as the passenger, only to realise that it was a turbo in the way there 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ So I had to make it a little longer to clear it.

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Discussion Starter · #19 · 4 mo ago

So, I heard that the oem coils aren't reliable when it comes to boosting, amd that the red coils is the way. So I purchased a set of new coil connectors and swapped them out.

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8 new ngk "R8" coils was also purchased, but there's nothing to attach them to

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So Ialso had to buy 8 adapter plates, so it would work.

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Fits nicely on the heads.

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Then I could put the new coils in place among with 8 new sparkplugs 🙂

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Then I realised the next problem 🤦‍♂️
The coils with adapters are shorter than the oem coils, so I didn't get connection between the coil and plug 🤦‍♂️

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I tried to see if I could buy an adapter, but I couldn't find anything. So I started to meassure everything and inside the coils bottom there are room for a small extension without anything being open for the cylinder walls.

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So, this is my homemade extender. Not very pretty.

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It's made of one broken sparkplug, and a new sparkplug hat, welded together.

When all was done, the coils fitted nicely and all had contact with their corresponding sparkplug 👍

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Discussion Starter · #20 · 4 mo ago

So, some more AN4 tubing on the schedule.
The wastegates are watercooled, don't know if it's needed since I know many kodels doesn'thave it, but since it's there why not use it. A weld bung for the lower watertube and was figuring going under the wgbody to each one to make it look cleaner installation wise.

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And for the upper watertube I thought of a 90dgr angle because I wanted some hose in case of movement in the exhaust when it gets hot. So it doesn't rip the an-hose right of and all my coolant just flow right out of the engine 🙈

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so, a 90dgr angle on the wg body towards the 90dgr on the below picture.

Could be good enough.

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Was measuring some in the enginbay and how it all could be done and thought that this angle probably will be better of, above the wg body. If done so, it doesn't need to go beside the exhaust system and doesn't pick up extra radiating heat either.

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Since I thought that would be better, I went that way instead. Here the weld on bungs are also in place with all an4 hoses and connectors.

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Put some pressurised air in the coolant system and sprayed the welds with some soapwater and of course I had tiny tiny leaks. So I had to unscrew the coolant tubes to weld it again until it was leakfree.

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Discussion Starter · #21 · 4 mo ago (Edited)

When i bought the standalone ecu once upon a time, way before this project started, the best options were VEMS, and with it I got this crankshaft position sensor. But it didn't really fit in the hole with the bolt to hold it in place.

It's a bit of center, maybe should have used a thin spacer, but I was told that this is good with the setup of flywheel and clutch.

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Anyhow, by using the audi oem sensor adapterplate i manage to do an own twist of it so I could fit the sensor I got with the kit 👍

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It sat rally nicely and low on the gearbox, and with a good range from the teeths, the thickness of the aluminium was machined to get correct distance from sensor to teeth.

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But, one day I was told that the sensor I've already got was sketchy and didn't work well at all. So I had to get another one. So a new adapter was made

And a new sensor was purchased. Unnecessary long this one 🤔

So after I fitted the new sensor I needed something to keep the internal wastegates closed on my turbos.

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Got my hands on two wirelocks and made them shkrter to fit my application.

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Drilled one hole big enough to make a bolt fit amd the other one over the wg arm, then just tighten it in enough and lock it.

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Next on was a sandwich for the oilfilter relocation kit so I can fit the oil pressure sensor and temperaturesensor. While looking at it I thought it was badly made with that small hole on both sides. So i went with a rotating file to grind it down and make it way better than it was on this photo