[Wibe_]

When i bpught the standalone ecu once upon a time, way before this project started, the best options were VEMS, and with it I got this crankshaft position sensor. But it didn't really fit in the hole with the bolt to hold it in place.

It's a bit of center, maybe should have used a thin spacer, but I was told that this is good with the setup of flywheel and clutch.

Anyhow, by using the audi oem sensor adapterplate i manage to do an own twist of it so I could fit the sensor I got with the kit 👍

It sat rally nicely and low on the gearbox, and with a good range from the teeths, the thickness of the aluminium was machined to get correct distance from sensor to teeth.

But, one day I was told that the sensor I've already got was sketchy and didn't work well at all. So I had to get another one. So a new adapter was made

And a new sensor was purchased. Unnecessary long this one 🤔

So after I fitted the new sensor I needed something to keep the internal wastegates closed on my turbos.

Got my hands on two wirelocks and made them shkrter to fit my application.

Drilled one hole big enough to make a bolt fit amd the other one over the wg arm, then just tighten it in enough and lock it.

Next on was a sandwich for the oilfilter relocation kit so I can fit the oil pressure sensor and temperaturesensor. While looking at it I thought it was badly made with that small hole on both sides. So i went with a rotating file to grind it down and make it way better than it was on this photo

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

So, I did hook up the S8 dual pass radiator on my garage setup, not the prettiest but it sure worked like a treat.

I took my volvo electrical fan and hung on the rad, was easier that to make a fixation for the audi fan.

I've also attached the oilfilter in the relocation kit.

Got some short adapters (3" - 2.5") and welded on the oem manifold flanges

They got mounted on each downpipe

so I hooked up the first part om the s8 downpipes and catalytic converters and filled the coolant system.

I also had to buy an rs232-usb adapter

And voila, I had crank readings on my laptop 🥳

And, voila, I had water leakage in both my wastegates while cranking the engine 🙈

And oilleak 🤦‍♂️

So, I had to fix these two problems in order to proceed with the build 🤦‍♂️

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

Well, I tried to upload some videos here, where I calibrated some stuff, like the TB and crankshaft position sensor. But motorgeek wouldn't allow the mp4 files.

But I have this atleast to share 🙂

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

This forum is on fire 😂

Anyhow, I went on out to the garage to make a good mount for the steering since I haven't been pleased with my previous results. First I had to get it leveled and centered so I had something to start on.

so I cut some squaretube and made a cut-out for a better tight fit over the joint.

Drilled some holes and put in two shorter ends so I could weld this in place on my previous 90dgr angles I've already welded in place.

Of course it needs an angle to fit 😅

Got out to the car to see how it lined up, and it looks good. Small, slim enough to not steal too much space. Wanted it to be detachable to ease if the engine needs to get out, rack has to be changed or whatever needs to be done that needs space. But in the end it got welded in place.

Here is just the other side, but it sits really good with this one.

Overall view with the extenders towards the firewall in place (can be seen sligthly in the two above pictures)

And some paint when in place 🙂

Since I use the S8 front/rear brakes, I troed to put in the oem brakemaster and booster package

It could probably be done, but the connections where the brakeline goes in to the master will not be good at all and probably bump in to everything 😅

All for today 😎
Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

When the engine was running, all leaks got sorted out one by one. All the welds in the manifolds were leakfree and so the downpipe. It was mostly the AN-fittings that I had trouble with, sipping oil in the joints. First time using them, wasn't sure on how tight I could go without breaking them.

Then some heatwrap around the exhaust.

Maybe not the prettiest, but hopefully functional 😁

The other side got a layer too 🙂

And the smal tubing for the wg's. After that the enging was set on idle to heat it up and dry it out.

A Mocal oil thermostat was ordered and an oilcooler to set in line with the remote oilfilter. Probably a bit oversized tubing, but IIRC it had AN10's delivered with it.

So after a few hours/days of tinkering with stuff, the engine went on its first trip in a long while 😁

After moving what felt like tons of stuff, the enginebay was ready 🙂

It wasn't so easy as I thought it would be, but slowly it went in.

Of course I had a few mishaps, like this one. The AN-fitting for the wg's waterline bumped straight into the steeringrack and cracked (the left one that is removed here) so I had to come up with another solution to this.

But, if it sits it fits, right? 🙂
As far as I'm aware of, the worlds first Volvo 740 with V8 twinturbo and quattro driveline 🙂

Now I had to start getting the oilfilter in place, fix the coolant lines for the wg's, get the steering to work, fueling, ic for the turbos, radiator for the engine and so on 🙂

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

First of I had to find a location for my remote oilfilter setup. I've already measured and looked at this spot before, and I still thought it was the best. So I went on cutting a hole for the filter to fit. The hole became a little bigger than I itended, so I will see if I want to weld some metal back in again or leave it like it is now.

At another angle one may see the passenger side turbo

And on the other side the driver side turbo is visible 🙂

After attaching the gearbox selectorshafts, I realised that the exhaust was a bit in the way 🤦‍♂️ So I had to remove the downpipe again, cut it sligthly and hammer it, then weld it shut again.

With the front on, it starts to look like a car again 🙂

I also tried this 940 glasfibre front end. Even though it looks really good, I think it's too much work atm to fill in the gaps between it and the headlights, front wings and so on.

I also had trouble with the belt coves beeing to cloose to the crossbar that holds the hoodlocks

Here is the IC's fortst trial in the car 😁 it's almost the biggest I could find, because I thought I might need as much cooling as possible due to the turbo's locations with intake pipes beeing close to the exhausts 😊

Speaking of the turbo's. The intake pipe doesn't fit between the manifolds and framerail 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ so I had to start looking into altering the intakes or the framerails. This is what needs to remove if it should work.

After discussing with a technician that will go through this build in order to make it street legal, the engine got out again and I started to measure up what pieces of the rails that needs to be removed.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

And then the cutting began, removing what I was thought beeing in the way for the snorkel to the turbo

Some new tubes was bought and welded together. Unfortunately I couldn't weld it all into one piece because I couldn't place it within the rails if it all was joined together.

so I put the two pieces within the rail and got able to weld 3 sides of it since I was able to push it more forward than this pic shows.

And here it is in place, all welded in place with what was left of the old rail.

Here the aluminium tube will come out for the turbo's intake.

And the other side began to take shape. Dimensions of the square tube are metric

and the other side is all done. The smaller hole in the lower part on both sides is for the bolt that keeps the subframe in place

An overall picture

I also put the fixing point for the coolant expansion tank in a spot I'll hope is good enough

And I finnished the 3" stainless exhaust with a flextube. I see now that the V-band isn't in place on the flextube on theese, but they do exist 😊

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

Back in with the engine again 🙂 Passenger side turbo

And the driver side turbo 🙂

The intake fits way better on this side now 😁

But the passenger side didn't fit well enough, so I had to cut it in the welded joint to rearrange it a bit

And after a new angle it also was a success 🙂

Downpipe passenger side

Downpipe driverside

Looking horizontally under tha car, this is how much that points out beneath the car

The aluminium tube between the passengerside and driverside turbo was fitted in place. I have bought a new silicone hose with a "hump" on it (or if it was two humps 🤔) to replace the black one in this photo.

Then I also saw that there was a missing bolt in the oilpump housing. Does anyone know what bolt this is? Length, diameter, hardness?

Timmy

 

[sayoda]

Love the updates, your project is moving along fast!!!

 

[Wibe_]

Love the updates, your project is moving along fast!!!

Thanks, I think I wrote in the beginning that I have come a bit further with this project (still) but I had so many English speaking people who wanted to read on this build, so that's mostly why I got this thread, so I'd document things in English 🙂

Still haven't found the dimensions of the bolt, so I think I'll have to take out the old reliable and measure as good as I can 🙂 The box is full of oil, so doesn't want to remove it.
Also, been sick to death last week, so had no energy to post 🙈

But, here comes 10 more pictures 🙂

So, when the engine was finally in place, the cooling began. But of course this isn't easy either.. The Volvo isn't really made for an engine sitting so much forward as this piece now does, making it really cramped in the front.

There is a gap between the IC and the so it isn't grinding eachother

But it diesnt leave any room for a shroud and even less space for a fan to pull air with

From the mechanical fan pulley i had only a few cm (not even an inch) between the radiator and threaded part.

So there was at best 4-5cm (roughly 2 inch) to fit anything, and that isn't much since I didn't find any good eletric fan at all that would fit in this area. So I had to start looking for another solution because I felt that this doesn't simply work at all. And it will be to close to the IC and the hoses would be a problem with the serpentine belt and so on. I couldn't find a good solution when I was at this stage.

Anyhow, I managed to make a IC bracket/support in aluminium, but even though I picked a rather thick tube, I wasn't pleased in the rigidity of this thing either. So another solution was made

And it was made with 90° angled steel brackets

It's fixed in the bolts where the bumper is attached to the framerail, so it stays in place 🙂

When one side was done, I took it down and made a copy of it for the other side

And Voilà, the IC atleast was in place 🙂
Yeah, it might look a bit low, but I'm building the car to have 15cm of ground clearence (5,9 inch) if I want to lower the car or change tire size or something like that. The Audi rims have a 67.7cm diameter (26.65") and the Volvo is at 62cm (24.4") so I thought it might look strange with that height of tyre and want to change it for a lower profile.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

I'm totaly not gonna miss the old carport i was in wrenching on this build for a few years 🙈🙈

I got new parts to fix the coolant for the wg's, banjostyle, it made plenty of room now compared to the 150° fittings i had before. I had a bit of struggle so get it leakfree, but after carefull grinding on the banjo bolt to make it a bit shorter I got it to work.

So I began to look at place for the oilcooler. This is the size a motorcompany recommended for me, but I'm gonna swap it out for a bigger unit when going for more horsies.

Oilfilter relocation kit with built in thermostat, and gearbox cooler in place.

Close up on the coolers

This is how the airfilter will be when all is done on passenger side

And this is the driverside ofc. Both filters are outside of engine bay as shown so they got plenty of fresh air. Hopefully this will counteract a little due to how close the intake is to the manifold and also the big IC will do its part.

so the chase of radiator placing began and how to make the tubing for it. I'm starting to look where to fit it and the only place that looks somewhat doable is the trunk unfortunately

so I'm gonna need some tubing under the car all the way to the back of it 🤔

While figuring on this, I got a heavy package including an all around full brake service package 🙂

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

So, now when I have all those brake stuff along with caliper renovation kits, all I needed was to remove the wheels.

It was just that thing, it's a locking bolt 🤔 Some sort of 13-point hex 🤔

Went to local Audi dealership (know a guy there), also went to two other car repairshops where I know guys, but none had this correct socket that I could borrow for 1 hour.

But atleast I could remove the whole thing from the car 🤷‍♂️

All the welds will be made a bit more pretty after the registration because the inspector wants to look at it all first.

And Tadaaa! When I had removed the wheel from the car as above picture, I took forth a drill and drilled them out 😅 One I actually could remove by banging a screw onto the head and weld some nuts to it, that got stripped, so a new nut, and a new, until it came off.

While the suspension parts was off the car, I also fixed the brakeline re-using the Audi parts holding the joint in place.

And of course all 4 bearings was changed. The old ones had done their part 😅 Wheels rattling everytime they came of the ground 🙈

And the calipers was removed also in the process. I got contact with another guy who helped me sandblast them, so when I got then back the week after I took the rotating steelbrush and buffed them off from excessive sand and prepped them for paint.

Red, what else 🤷‍♂️😅
Unfortunately no Brembos, but the Audi's weight is almost 30% more than my Volvo. The S8 D2 got a curb weight at 1750kg (3858lbs), a maximum total weight of 2350kg (5180lbs) compared to my Volvo's curb weight 1420kg (3130lbs) and a total weight at 1820kg (4012lbs), so I'm pretty confident they still will do their part on this build. Even though this gal might put on some extra weight lately 🙂

So here it hanged for a while, I painted two or three layers to cover it all up, one layer was to thin.

And this is right before I started to assembly them again. Some parts I had to take a bit paint of again, f.e the closest caliper in the ear it hangs in (and the bottom ear), the paint on the surface around that hole was removed when put together again.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

So, the back calipers was put together again. How much a fresh paint can change the appearance of things 🙂 All new sealings, rubbers etc in them 🙂

Maybe I should have done the shield while I was at it 🤔

new disc, pads and a new brakeline in place 🙂

the other side aswell ✌

The fronts was also assembled, all new and fresh there too.

Mounted in place along with new rotor, pad and brakeline 🙂

And so the other side ✌🙂

And next I bagan to look at the Audi exhaust.
When it's time for the registration, this car also has to pass a decibel limit in a drive-by test. But, if one choose to use the full exhaust from the donor car, one may pass the test without doing it because the exhaust is "stock". So I started to see how I could use this on my car to make that happen 🤔

A new package found its way home with aluminium and steel tubing for chargepipes and exhaust among other things 🙂

And this also found the way home, a new brake and clutchpedal since it's too cramped with all the audiparts in this car 😅

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

And the cutting has begun.
The undercarriage of the Audi and Volvo is of course not alike, which I had to compromise a bit for. Cutting of the forward part and replacing it with 45° and 90° tubing.

Then another 60° bend found its way on to the exhaust

Making it lay really good in the spot where the Volvos exhaust runs along, and still making the resonator be in place where it is when underneath the Audi

One problem though, of course 🤦‍♂️ The muffler is a no-go.. The spare wheel well is in the way for this to happen.. So I have to figure out something else for this, but there was the small dream of skipping the decibel test mostly gone.

I also relocated the fixing point for hanging the exhaust in the rubber from the audi exhaust to my new exhaust pipe 🙂

Since it isn't stainless steel, I coated it all in black heat resistant spray color that are for exhaust systems, it also looked way better when painted 🙂

And I also had to make new fixingpoints under the car to hold the exhaust. Theese was made in stainless steel.

Here are the other sides new fixing point

Not the best photo, but this is the place the Volvo stock exhaust sits, and my new Audi/Volvo exhaust is seated within this premade hole 🙂

Since the stock Audi silencer didn't fit, I chose to make it a dual side outlet with a silencer on each side. I think it will look better also with an exhaust tip on each side in the bumper 🙂 It starts to be a little hard to handle, big clumsy and heavy, and the car on jackstands, but its doable atleast 🙂

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

So instead of the last Audi muffler that didn't fit well enough, I got my hands on two of theese "silencers" 😅 I might need to switch then out for real silencers when doin the registration, but that will be a later problem atm.

I also got my hands on aftermarket cats. They are made for the Audi S8 D2, so it will be sufficient for registration but not so good when raising the power limit. I'll guess they burn up and die when pushing the engine harder. But atleast swedish MOT-tests will be alright.

I cut the spare wheel well away completely, because I need somewhere to fit my fueltank and radiator

It's a 60l (16 gallons?) Fueltank with built in baffels to keep the fuel better in place when turning.

Then I made some brackets for the radiator. I thought that if I can make it sit low, I will have room for the fueltank above it.

I also made a simple shroud for my radiator

And also purchased 2 Spal fans with the highest output I could find. They are rated at 3350m³/hour (1971CFM) because I wanted as much capacity as possible because of the poor placement of the radiator.

Well of course Mr Murphy was visiting this build and I found that I have calculated the height wrong on my radiator placement making me rethink the fuelcell placement. It cant sit this tight towards the rear windows shelf, so I will need to cut more in the car.

Here is the original placement for the fueltank. It's shaped underneth the backseat, but the Audi rear subframe is way bigger than the Volvo with straight rear axle. But atleast I have som space left above the axle towards the trunk floor where I put the fuelcell on the last pic.

So this is what I need to cut away to make it work on the new place I found for the cell. Also, the cell is centered because I think it will be the best when it comes to weight, that it will be better in the middle than having extra 60-80kg ofset from centerline.

To the left just above the subframe, the Volvo original holes for the fuellines and fillerhose are visible that goes between the fuelcap and fueltank.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

Can't make everyone happy, I started to get some people telling me that I can't have my radiator laying flat, that it should be standing up instead. So I rried that approach to see how it would do in the car.

In the same time I also did the cut out for the fuelcell and attached a bracing between the rear frames. I put the radiator as far back that I could, so it's as near the towhook as possible but still have a little spare for some movement.

The brace got some paint and developed it a bit further to give more support for the fuelcell.

I had to loosen the rear axle and exhaust system to reach everything beneath. In this picture the inner brace for more stiffness of the body and support for the fuelcell is visible.

And another angle on the thing.
Here I've also added extra support around the waistline of the fuelcell, to keep it from moving and hold better in place in case of things goes way more sideways than I'm planning 😁 Rearwards there isn't a waistlinesupport because of the easy explanation that I cant lift in/out the fulcell if one would be welded in place.

I also started on the fuellines. In Sweden they do like to have things in metal under the car, so i purchased AN8 aluminium fuellines with matching brackets that got a little altered to fit a longer screw and a blind rivet nut (I think that's the correct word for it?). They should of course be sitting on equal spacing and not too far apart etc.

So, down from the trunk, following the underside of the rear seat, 90° bend right, 90° bend left.

Through the propshafttunnel against the wall as much as possible

Following the left sidewall all the way towards the front of the car.

And up along the firewall near where the fuellines comes out originally.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

While having things of the car, I took the tine to swapp some worn out parts for new. Like this support, the old one was probably atleast 10 years old, the rubber was bad/soggy and had cracks in it. So out with the old and in with the new.

I also took time to fix the brakelines and strap them on the car.

Tried to mirror it as much as possible.

I also made these "cups" for the rear suspension springs topseat.

Right one welded in place

And the left one in place

This is the rubberpart that sits in the top of the spring, amd it fits like a glove over my new fixing point. Feels good that the top suspension now will sit where it should at all time 😊

I also made this "L" bracket for the brake hose to the rear wheels, one for right side and one for left.

Problem was, when lifting the car it bumped into the wheels.. And if I would lower the bracket, the hose would almost get pinched instead. So I had to sort this out also.

I also started a try N' fail project to deliver coolant from the engine to the radiator. I purchased two long 38mm (1 1/2") aluminium tubes and bent them so they would fit under the car. I welded on two 90° angles up front to get up towards the engine. These tubes was thought laying underneath the engine/front subframe and follow the propshaft/exhaust system back towards the radiator. But this was also a no-go. I didnt like how it laid under the engine/subframe and how the machine made the angles in the tubes, they got all dented.. Probably shit behind the levelers, but one must try to figure out how stuff works I guess.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

So, the rear subframe was mounted back on to the car again. But i felt it sat a bit high. So later that evening I had to go out and check what I did wrong.

I found this on the front side, in the bottom there's a guidence pin for the lower rubber which wasn't in place, on both sides 🤦‍♂️

The day after I compressed the springs enough to remove them and the rubber so I could fix this. It's visible that this ruber was 90° of from where it should have been.

When rear was ok again, I moved on to the front. Doing other stuff while waiting for parts. And this time it will be a EHPAS (electro-hydraulic power-assisted steering) from a 2015 Volvo V70. I got the whole thing i cluding brackets from a local pick n' pull scrapyard. Cutting down the brackets some and mounting it into my car. Main reason for going with this is that the power steering pump on the engine doesn't fit because the pulley is to big in diameter so it interfeeres with my framerail. Hopefully this will produce enough of fluid capacity for this rack.

Another angle on the same thing.

With hood closed, it clears by a cm (1/2") or something like that 😅 Even though it looks close in this angle, it sits a bit further in than shown here.

And how about this!
The Audi bolts for the ps-pump and return hose diameter fits bolt on in the new pump! 😁
All i need now is some new hoses because theese two has done their part 😅

I also took the power steering "radiator" and fitted on my build. Figured it can't do much harm to retrofit this one too on the build.

Clears the engine well enough, all I needed to do was to make a different angle on the in/return to fit my car better

Then I started to look at the radiator again. I'm not pleased with the fitnent at all because i would like to be able to use this car atleast a bit. With a standing radiator it will eat my whole trunk capacity.

I was starting to look at a laying placement again.

(Left, towards forward of far, right towards rear of car)
To the left is the rear part of my fuelcell, the horizontal lines represents the framerail, to the right is my towhook.

The radiator is in this pic mounted between the rails with the shroud hanging underneath along with my spal fans. This will leave 20cm (8") of ground clearence to the lower part of the fan. And still let me use most of the space in my trunk.

The horizontal dotted line above all is a new inner trunk floor 10cm (4") above the radiator, giving me room to get air in from hoses, ducts etc etc to try keep it happy in temperature.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

Next up was some aluminium tubing to/from the intercooler. The turbo's have 2.5" outlets, and two 2.5" is almost equal as one 3.5" (2x2.5" = 63cm² compared to 1x3.5" = 62cm²). So the turbo's outlets go together as shown before into a single 3.5" and in to the intercooler, then out all the way to the tb that also accepts a 3.5" tube.

Here is the driversside tubing. Behind the AC compressor is where the turbo's join together in a 2-1 tube and makes the 90° silicone bend down toward the new aluminium tube. The AC compressor will probably be removed because right now I dont think I can fit everything to make it work, and I'll focus more on getting the car done and afterwards see it I can make something out of it.

I got a bit ahead of myself and welded the bracket for the dump on a piece of tubing. After this I altered the tubing a bit since I had ordered more parts, one of them to replace the audi silicone elbows that aren't made for positive pressure

I'm not sure if I showed how the expansion tank sits, I think I only posted a picture of the bracket. But here it is. The hoses for the compartment heatercore is visible too. Probably gonna source out some balljoints to those two hoses so I can drain the coolant system with or without the heatercore.

Well, I sorted out the AN's for the oilcoolers up front. When put in place like this they fit nicely under the headlight without any rubbing

I also put some clamping on the hoses that comes from the gearbox along the framerail. There is a third one outside the picture just below the driveshaft to stop the hoses from getting in contact with the driveshaft.

So this is how it looked when all the ordered parts was on place in the front. Feels great to see it all works out rather ok in the end. It's a bit too tight in some spots, but atleast it sits.

And, radiator. Yeah I flipped it again as I said in the last post. It didn't feel right having it standing and occupying the whole trunk. I also looked at tons of youtubers that have their radiators in the trunk, under the trunk, on their truckbeds and so on. I saw that it was almost 50/50 when it comes to standing or laying radiators, so I'll try this and see how it turns out. At this point I was putting the shroud onto the radiatorbed for a more permanent installation and skip the 4 small ears i made before.

Before putting in the radiator i made a centre divider on the shroud, visible by the rivets between the fans, keeping the fans seperate to be able to run one or two fans in some sort of dual setup depending on heat. And picture below is of course how it looks from the inside of the trunk.

While getting ready for the coolant tubing, I opened up the radiator and found this slightly nasty surprise. Full of metal shavings probably from fabrication of the threads I guess. I contacted the seller and made a good deal because of this, but I had to take the radiator out again and flush it out propperly from all the shavings.

Timmy

 

[Wibe_]

I found a picture where the divider is visible that I wrote of in the bottom of last post. I also put rubber all around to make it as good as possible so when the fan start the air has to come through the radiator and not from possible slips between the radiator and shroud. And also as I already wrote, this is to be able to run one fan if the heat rises slowly without just getting air circling through wrong way of other fan, and when the heat gets to high run both fans.

So, prototype 2 of coolant tubing from the engine back to the radiator begins. It is 38mm (1.5") aluminium tube, same diameter as original Audi hoses. Starts with a 90° angle to get it down, followed with another 90° angle to get it under the framerail.

Into another 90° angle backwards following the rail, turning around the oilfilter and subframe fixing point

Up in the wheelwell

High enough to not be in the way for the moving driveshaft and just below the brakeline that sits on the inner wall.

The brakeline has a small loop that the watertube fits nicely in

The driverside is little different up front, but not by much. Sine the power steering isn't mechanical, all I need to go around is the ac-pump pulley.

Under the framerail and back into wheelwell

upwards on this side too, mostly just a copy from the other side

Through the loop on the brakehose and down again under the car along the rail.

Timmy