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Volvo 740 with Audi V8, Biturbo and Quattro driveline "AWDsome"

4738 Views 65 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Wibe_
10
Hello everyone.

I've been around here for a while now reading on many different projects so I thought it was time to share my own project. I've been building this for a while, so it will be a bit old information in the beginning, but still suggestions are welcome because it isn't finished yet and things can always become better.

I've got this car 19 years ago. It's a 1987 Volvo 740 TIC (turbo intercooler). First thing i did was of course to strip it down, repaint it, body kit, big stereo and such things as I guess almost every 18 year olds do to their first car?
So the color of choice was a Volvo "R" color named "Flash Green Metallic". It turned out pretty neat, and with 3x the factory boost it moved alright too. I think it was one of the quicker Volvos in town by that time.
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Anyhow. I guess for some of us a powerfull engine is fun, so the hunt began for something more fun in this thing. Volvos I5 swap is really common and I6's starting to get normal too, so it wasn't really appealing enough. While doing the swap it would also be great to get enough grip since the oem rear axle almost everytime wants to do one wheel burnouts.

So I had this German imported thing standing in my driveway, not registered in Sweden so I couldn't drive it on the roads.

I guess what's about to happen will probably upset few readers, but I began to strip the front end out of the Audi and took out the subframe, suspensions, engine and gearbox.
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It's the older 4.2l 32v V8 lump in this car. Before I got the car from Germany, it was imported from Italy, so it was converted to run on gas/LPG, some of the components are visible on the comming picture.
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After some searching on the Internet and help from a local Audi dealer I got my hands on this information about the fix points of the front cradle.
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So, with the tape measure in my hand I started to measure on the Volvos frame rail. It was alot of measuring to get it all centered and so everything would fit alright within the volvos body. First of the front fixing points came to place, just a notch wider than the oem rail but with a little triangulation it should keep it together.
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The other side came along aswell, just copy the first side and it was done.
Automotive tire Tread Tire Bicycle part Rim


When they were done I could start triangulate for the rear points, I had to cut a bit more of the rail and make more of a cup to make the subframe fit, the rail was also wider than the subframe so i had to make a wedge in to the center to support it.
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And as the front one's, when one side were done it was just to copy it to make it work on the other side.
Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive design Rim


When the new attachment points were done, the Audi cradle fitted nicely within the Volvo 馃憤
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I also had to gut the Volvo strut towers to make the massive Audi suspension come through, pieces of cardboard and metal became a model of where I needed to cut out to make place.
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So, I guess this will be the start of this project since I only could attach 10 pictures.
As said, I've come a bit further than this, but I will get there eventually.

I hope you will enjoy this project despite the sacrilegious unity between the car brands 馃槉

Until next time

Timmy
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41 - 60 of 66 Posts
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This is how cool the pipes look when off the car 馃槑馃槄 Not much to see more than alot of bends everywhere 馃檲
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So, I continued with the pipe going backwards. Drilled holes in the jackstandmount to get the coolant through it, will be a rubber hose there so I can easier attach/detach the tubing if needed to.
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And it goes along the rail all the way right before the rear wheels
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Where it goes slightly inwards before proceeding up over the rear axle.
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I also made theese two cuties. One aolid and the other i drilled a hole in to attach a airvalve from a rim.
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By doing that, and with 2 hoses, I could attach them to my tubing and put pressure within
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Making it way easier for me to spot leaks, and there was many small leaks to fix.
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I also made a new bracket for an electrical waterpump I've purchased. I'm still not sure if the engines waterpump is sufficient when it comes to flow water all the way to the trunk and back front again. It's the Davies Craig ewp150 with the small computer with it, so it will operate on it's own. And, I did a smaller flowcheck to see how much water it flows through when turned off, and it will not interfeere too much if it dies and only mechanical pump work.
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I welded the bracket onto rear left jackstandmount.
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And mounted the ewp onto it. The design of the mount is made so I can remove the pump by releasing the three nuts on the rubbers, and slide it out.
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Timmy
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10
Here is how the ewp sits looking from the side, compared to lowest part of jackstandmount, so the ewp is not the lowest part if running over something 馃檪
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This is how the aluminium tubing under the car joins together with the radiator in the trunk, longer flexible rubber hose.
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A rubberhose with a bend connected to a shorter aluminium tube up towards the outlet of the radiator
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And from the ewp back again towards front of the car.
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in the jackstandmounts I put in some u-shaped rubber with clamps within (don't know the English word for this rubber trim) all around the edges so they don't get too sharp and eats the hose.
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Then i put on the hoses that goes through the mounts.
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Here is the hose from the outlet of the radiator going beside the fuelline/returnline, just before joining the aluminum tube that goes down to my ewp.
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When all were in place, I hooked up my boost pressure gauge to my coolant system, then I filled the whole coolant system with compressed air from my compressor. I couldn't get more than 1.5bar (21psi) because of the cap on expansiontank opens up at that pressure.
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And I of course found some more leaks. This here is the new fitting on my wastegate that leaks. The old one was the one that interfered with steering assembly.
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So, I tightened the bolt 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
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And I had to order new parts to get this sorted out.

Timmy
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10
So, while waiting for a new banjo bolt among other things, I went on with the fuelsystem of the car. I got the main fuelcell on 60l (I guess it is around 13 gallons) sitting centre of car, and I also purchased a 4l catchtank (almost 1 gallon?) Which I'm going to find a place for along with dual fuelpumps and a fuelfilter.
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I found a place that seemed good, so I made 4 brackets because I wanted some thicker metal to mount it to. Probably a bit oversized, but atleast the inspectors are happy.
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I welded the brackets in place and drilled/taped 4 holes for the bolts to hold it in place.
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Next up was a jig for the fuelpumps. They are altered Bosch 044 pumps that has been adapted to better accept e85 fuel (a demand for building this car) and from information have the capability of 600hp/pump, 1200hp in total on e85. 340l/hr each (around 75 gallons/hour each)
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The pumps are fitted with a checkvalve each, and a 90掳 going to the back of catchtank where they join together in a Y connector before entering the fuelfilter. Also visible is the returnline from the engine that goes in to the catchtank, and the returnline from catchtank into the fuelcell.
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I also got some nuke fuelrails for Audi 4-cyl engines that fits good on the intake. I also have purchased 8 new flowmatched injectors, high ohm altered Bosch for e85 that flows 1220-1300cc each, should be capable of 1100-1200hp.
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I also got a new Nuke oil catchcan for the crankventilation. But I had to alter the bracket a bit to sit better in my car where I had room for it.
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There are 3 ports on it, two for incoming crankvent and one for outgoing which is going to be attached to one of the turbos intake, as usual because of Swedish regulations. After registration it might be open to atmosphere if the levels of pressure is good enough within the crankcase.
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I also have a new fuel pressure regulator and it got fitted nicely beside the new catch.
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And some new braided fuellines from the aluminum fuellines that comes under the car to the engine, then from engine to btr and back again to the returning fuelline under the car.
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Vehicle Automotive exterior Auto part


Timmy
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10
I took out the fuelcell and prepped it a bit with wiring for an internal fuelpump, and welded in the plug for the feedingline to fuel catchtank.
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I made a simple brace that hold the fuelpump within the fuelcell, it's made in aluminium so I will see if it will vibrate too much and break, or if it will hold.
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Another angle shows the feeding hose and electrical wiring to the pump.
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when mounted in the fuelcell, the filter to the pump is above the bottom of the tank so it doesn't suck unnecessary shit, but still in the lower part of the fuelcell.
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If I'd be a little smarter, I would have put the feedingline connector more offset and used the smaller hatch for main fuelneck too. But now I'd have to use the bigger hole for that. Another regulation here that says I need to refill the tank from outside the car, and not by opening the trunk and fill it.
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Anyhow, this is how it looks on the inside of the tank
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Then I put everything back in the car again
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I also welded in the temperature sender into the coolant pipe so the computer for the eletric waterpump knows how hot the water is.
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I also made some extra mounts for the e-brake cables, they were hanging way to low since my 740 is shorter than the donor Audi.
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I actually put some fuel in the cell and powered up the main pump in the cell, filling up the catch and I could hear the overflow coming back to the cell. Then I started one of the high capacity fuelpumps to test the whole fuel system. I of course found a leak on the feedingline right above the rear axle.

So again I had to remove the rear axle to solve this new issue 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
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Timmy
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10
Well, I found where it leaks.. And the tubing was damaged too, so I had to cut it off a bit
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And of to the carpart store and buy another an-fitting, some braided ptfe hose and replace the tubing I had to cut off.
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And then on with the fuelpump again! 馃榿
And it popped the o-ring on the fuelrail instead 馃う鈥嶁檪锔忦煠︹嶁檪锔
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And the store told me to use aluminium rings instead, so I bought them, and they also leaks..
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So I had to make it work in another way, I first ordered a 90掳 angle to replace the banjo, but it didn't really clear things as the banjo did.
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So I tried a 120掳, and it wasn't much better of an option.
Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Gas Nut Auto part


neither the 150掳, and a 180掳 wasn't gonna be better either so I didn't even try it.
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A 45掳 became the best option as I saw it, and make a bend over the intake straight to the fpr.
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While fixing the busted fuelrail under the car, I spotted that I might put the propshaft the wrong way, so I had to check it out, and of course I had done it. So down with it and make a new fixing for the centre support.

This time the Volvo original support actually could be reused, but I had to make a minor adjusment to accept the audi support instead of Volvo support.

The red belt is attached in the front and rear of propshaft, to be able to measure it and make the prop straight.
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Painted it and mounted it on the car again 馃憤
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Timmy
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10
I welded in some support for the exhaust on the new support plate
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Electrical wiring Bumper


Then another guy who thought of something else, came up with that if my prop moves to much, it will git the support. So I cut a pipe in half and replaced some of the support with it, so the clearence got bigger.
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Some scrapemarks on the support while lifting up everything in place, but it was just to put some new paint on it.
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I started a little om the electrical while waiting for more parts that are ordered. This is a 1987 volvo 740 amd it has the electrical harness from a 95-98 940 since I had a engine swap before.

but now it has an Audi dashboard and instrument cluster.

So I got my hands on the eletric schematics for the Volvo harness, and the schematic for the Audi cluster, and the mayhem began 馃槄 soldering one wire at the time in each new place.
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And it started 馃榿馃榿
Yeah, the donorcar is from Italy 馃檲 And I don't have the things to swap language in it, so I guess I have to live with it 馃檲
Speedometer Odometer Tachometer Vehicle Gauge


The fuel level sender that came in the tank is a 0-90ohm sender, so I had to buy a new one since the audi instrument wants 9 +/- 4 ohms when full and 166 +/- 7 ohms when empty. The closest I could find was one that had 180ohms when full and 10ohms when empty.

But, if I dismantle it and turn the reader upside-down, the readings will be inverted and have 10ohms when full and 180ohms when empty.
Handwriting Rectangle Slope Font Parallel


I also had to twist the arm to clear the other things I have in my tank. I also made some simple measurements of how much space there is in the tank between bottommand top so I could calibrate the level sender travel.
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And in it goes, long screws but it sits where it should and the arm clears the hoses and wire.
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When empty, the sender gives 165.1ohms
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When full, the sender giver 11.7ohms
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Timmy
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10
Made more progress on the eletric and sorted them out one by one
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But with the fuellevelsender I got the meter to work properly. Full tank
Speedometer Car Trip computer Odometer Motor vehicle


Half tank
Car Speedometer Trip computer Odometer Vehicle


And empty tank with warning light and the "ding" sound.
Speedometer Car Trip computer Vehicle Odometer


After finding the brakepad wear cable and bulb failure cable, I plugged them correctly and got rid of their fault indicators and suddenly I even got a reference as to how far I can travel to empty tank. It's not correct since my tank capacity is 2/3 of the donor cars, but atleast it gives a hint. I also tried to attach the ambient tempsensor, but since it goes through the audis climate control system, the readings didn't work with only the sensor. I even tried a wide range of resistors from 1 ohm to 2M ohm and ended up with no reading at all or -45掳C as shown in pic. If anyone has information if this is fixable without the ecc, please let me know 馃檪
Speedometer Odometer Trip computer Tachometer Motor vehicle


After the instrument I went for the levellers behind the steeringwheel, starting with the left side.
Circuit component Electrical wiring Computer hardware Electricity Cable


It's one for the lights (off, park, main (is it called dipped??)) and the other is cruise control, blinkers and highbeam (and is this mainbeam??).
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So I got the parking light functioning now.
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Along with main beam (dipped??)
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And full funcion on the highbeam (main beam??)
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Timmy
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10
And of course I got the tail lights working 馃檪 rear lights with indicators

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rear brake lights with indicators. And also fog and reverse lights were working 馃檪
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while doing the electrical I also started to fix the position for my new clutch and brake pedal. Got my hands on an extra torpedowall that I used as a template between the pedals and my car.
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Then I cut out a new metalsheet and turned it into a little box for the new assembly
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aIn went the new clutch and brake pedal 馃檪
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Then back to the electrical again. I just don't seem to finnish one thing before starting something else 馃 Well, I got alot of bad readings from the cruise control switch. Sometimes there was contact and sometimes it wasn't in the same position. So I pulled it apart and it was all dirty, so I cleaned it and put it back together again and it was working 馃檪

Now the problem was to make it send the correct signal to the Volvo boxes, so I had to combine some things because the audi had more features, like increasing speed while the older Volvo only has set speed.
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I also got the window wipers and washerfluid working, and the Audi ignition lock, so I began to tape it all together
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It even has a fully eletrical adjustable steering wheel now 馃榿

I also made this bracket.
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which sits on the passenger side door hinge fixing, it's all the relays and fuses for the VEMS electrical, so probably gonna make a little "crashbar" around to keep passengers from kicking it 馃榿
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And while I was turning over the engine (to see that the Audi ignition worked as it should) I found this leak 馃う鈥嶁檪锔忦煠︹嶁檪锔
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Timmy
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10
So after using alot of thread tape and different other sealing stuff, I got tired of it still leaking and just welded it together. It got a little clogged up on the inside so had to drill/file it up again. So yes, it got well cleaned after this photo.
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But, it leaked again, for the third time, man I was angry 馃槄 but this time it was my own fault 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 I had pinched the rubber between the adapter and engine 馃う鈥嶁檪锔忦煠︹嶁檪锔 It isn't easy getting this part ff and on the engine while in the car, it is really tight reaching it. So there was no way of seeing this before. So went away and purchased liquid sealant that holds for petrol/oil etc and got it all together again.
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Starting to look more like an Audi than a Volvo on the inside too 馃槄
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I managed to hook up the Volvo EHPAS to function with the Audi rack. Unfortunately it's canbus controlled so it will only run on full rpm's. But it starts when turning on the car, and has its own fuse 馃榿馃槄

I also started to look at the idle valve settings, tried to trim it and work properly, I had the spare one loose and watched it open/close while altering the settings, so I think I got it working as it should.
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while cranking the engine all those times while it was leaking oil, I also discovered that the instrument clusters "low oil pressure" light always was on. Well of course it is when there's no ground to make a complete circuit 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 So I had to fix this too, made it simple this time. Will probably make a seperate hole for the ground in the future.
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And all of sudden, while trying for the first start, the fuses started to blow. I searched and searched and found this lite prick. It's a small soldering edge pointing out of the cables, way less than 1mm, and shorts into another cable 馃う鈥嶁檪锔忦煠︹嶁檪锔 Took me a while to find this..
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It took me so long that I had to take a break and searched for a place to put the ecu, and it now sits above the golvebox behind the dashboard, where the airbag once sat.
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And also took time to fix the thermostat, the Davies Craig ewp wants two holes in it, so made them
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And then it finally happened 馃コ馃コ馃コ
Vehicle Light Trip computer Gauge Speedometer


Hope you enjoy it as much as I did 馃榿

Timmy
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10
So the engine works and I've been fiddling with vemstunes to make it smoother and so on, not much to post pictures of ve tables, fueltables etc. Mostly not fully knowing what I'm doing 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 but hopefully I'm smart enough to figure it out. The hardest part right now is tuning in the idle valve. When revving the engine it wants to die before settling the idle.

Anyhow, bodyworks. The donor is slightly wider than an 80's Volvo 馃槄 so to make the suspension work fully, I need to widen the front wings atleast 9cm (almost 4") on each side 馃槄
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So I went to a nearby pick n' pull with a tape measure and a magnet and went row by row until I come by a newer golf with something that actually could do as some sort of base for this project. I found many audis with wide enough wings, but they seem all to be aluminium, while the Volvo is plain metal.

I took a spare scrap wing and attached the golf wing on it and it looked rather ok after all
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the line toward front is the biggest issue, but I was thinking if I chop it and lengthen it, it maybe could work. I have not worked on this solution more than this, so it's still unfinished.
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Rear is slightly less in need of widening, this is measured on the inside of the wing, so it's almost 7.5cm (3") to clear the wheel on travel.
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Bring forth the sawzaw 馃槄
I gutted almost everything out of it. The plan is to come by a pair of fresh inner wheel wells and weld it on to this making it wider with oem parts
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Not much left 馃槄
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While searching for parts, I assembled the brakes. Put some level sensors in and when one of the three is low the warning light in the dash lights up 馃檪
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Just one problem, the parts sold in this kit isn't made for eachother. I tried threadtape, tredo and aluminium rings with no success.
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so I made me a new bracket for the cups, and had to order new hoses from the cups to the master cylinders.
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So this is where it sits now.
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior



Timmy
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10
I made a small central for the dual spal fans on the radiator. One 40A relay for each fan along with two smaller relays that makes a function that VEMS may start one fan at a certain temperature point and the Davies Craig Ewp can start the second one at another temperature. And also letting the Davies control both fans when the car is turned of for better cooling.
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this was the preliminary widening of the rear wheel wells, 5cm (2.5") per side, it wasn't enough I found out later on, but it definitely was a start to make the body accept the new rear wheel width.
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Then, all out of sudden. After spending almost 5 years in a carport making this monster
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The car was on a trailer going for a way better area to proceed the build
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of course I couldn't let it go out of sight on the 10min drive to the new location 馃槄
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The all new (to me) garage wasn't completely fixed when moving the car, but it was such an awesome feeling to be within 4 walls and a roof to continue tamper with it, so I didn't really care 馃槄
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so when the floor was dry enough, the car took its new place, in the centre of the garage, to have lots of space moving around it 馃檪 Even have me a soundsystem in the garage mounted on the walls/inner roof, so I can listen to any music now instead of birds, pouring rain, wind, trains and other sounds 馃槄
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Anyhow, this is how the enginebay looks, felt it was a few days ago I posted a pic of it 馃槣馃槄
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And this is how the interior looks like 馃檪
A bit messy, yes, but it will come in place sometime 馃檪
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Timmy
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10
So a few more hours of organising, driving back and forth with trailer, box after box with stuff. Man! One does collect alot of stuff in 17 years 馃檲

I welded on some wheels on one of the workbenches, it got 5cm to high (2") compared to the other bench, but its alright, atleast i can move it with ease if i want to in the future. Will put a smaller metalsheet bender on it along with that bench drill in pic and a stationary grinder machine, so I wanted the bench to be movable if the thing I'm working on is to big and hits the garage wall.
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But worktime also needs some playtime. So I started it up and just played a little with the throttle to keep the cleaning motivation up 馃槉

Lol, bad idea 馃槄 soooo, cleaning was of the schedule and back to the old place and pack some more boxes instead 馃槄
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I still haven't emptied my old place completely, but I want to finnish this so badly at the same time, just to enjoy it 馃槄
So a few days later I started to look at the hoses from the master cylinders and the brakefluid reservoirs. I thought I needed new/longer hoses since I moved the location, but i put them the other way around, with the 90掳 on the masters and I was good to go.
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I also started to bleed the brakes again, purchased me one of those handpumped vacuum bleeders and think I sorted it all out.

So, now that the driveline is done, I need to start look at the body, so all 4 wheels will be covered in the wheelwells.

I'm a bit lucky at this front, aince I know a guy that breaks car for living, and from him I got a set of rear inner wheelarches in good condition. So I began to remove the outer part of the fender that was left
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This is what I removed. The outer layer of metal was of course crispy as they use to be, and the left side (not in pic) was worse.
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Now I had me a "new" arch that I had to get in the right place, which wasn't particularly easy. I had to place and remove the wing several times to measure it in so it looked correct.
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I had of course saved some parts on to help me align it better/faster.
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The C-pillar support will not be the same in the seat, so that will probably get some bracing.
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out to the right I had saved a bit from the old wheelwell that I also used as a guide. I also had to remove the plate I put there earlier since I needed the rear part to be wider than I first thought.
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And then I tacked it in place.
Wheel Tire Crankset Automotive tire Motor vehicle



Timmy
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10
So I welded the piece in place as good as I can. It did differ more towards the old wheelwell than I thought it did, some gaps are visible. I also have some wiring laying there, so I need to move them before welding it completely all way around.
Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Automotive design


This is how it looks when the door is shut. So here it shows how much I've widened the arch. Amd yes, it is more widened in the bottom compared to up top, I wanted more of the wheel to be covered than it was from factory.
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Car


This isn't 100% correct, but almost. This setup gives me 10mm of space between the edge of the arch and wheel if it would bounce up in the same height which it would morlst probably do sometime. And if one take some quick turns under acceleration the tire hopefully doesn't get shredded by the edge 馃榿
Automotive tire Tread Wood Tire Publication


I did hang up the rear panel just to see how it looks. And yeah I once actually had a thought of a fuelcap on the right side of the car, it still will be on the right side (right side traffic) but much much smaller than that 馃槉
Tire Wheel Vehicle Land vehicle Car


So, I copied the right side and did exactly the same on the left side.
Tire Wheel White Automotive tire Automotive lighting
Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior


This is the rear passenger door on right side, the arch is widened 86mm in the bottom (3.4")
Wood Tints and shades Gas Bumper Automotive exterior


And on the "hip" it is 68mm widened (2.7")
Sleeve Automotive tire Rectangle Vehicle door Tints and shades


I cut some flares in the wing over the widened part, I also removed a bit of the part that goes down behind the door. I can definitely live with this widening 馃榿 Just need to do something forward on the rear door to meet up this 馃馃 I'm not sure I want to cut the door and pull the metalsheet out just yet, but maybe 馃馃 the metal is so thin and big in surface, I'm afraid I'll destroy it with dents all over.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


Timmy
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10
Some packages that has arrived.
I got myself an "turbo" grille for the facelift front. Apparently they are called "XC" grilles nowadays, but this 740 turbo from 1987 had squares in the grille to indicate it was a turbo model. "XC" is something they discovered in 2000-ish something 馃か馃榿
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle


I also put an order on some spares. New coils and plugs, always good to have. 2 chargingregulators for my alternator (one will be mounted), some new exhaust rubbers, 2 new gassprings for the hood (one of mine leaks)
Motor vehicle Gas Automotive tire Auto part Publication


And the third package includes new wheelhouse parts to make something up, along with "US" style indicators 馃槉
Crankset Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper


Since I wasn't 100% sure how to go on the widening, I did other stuff, while walking by and "feel" the widening, if it was something I liked or not.

So I completed the exhaust.
Automotive tire Wood Asphalt Electrical wiring Floor


The exhaust was rather easy to get out when it was laying on the mechanic board 馃槄
Automotive tire Electrical wiring Asphalt Gas Engineering


And after some welding, cutting, grinding, welding, cutting, grinding I was pleased with the result 馃檪
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire


I've had theese collecting dust for something like 12 years. They are supposed to go on another project, but ended up on this instead.
Automotive tire Vehicle Engineering Motor vehicle Gas


The tape is to cover the chrome part, so I don't damage it, if anyone wondered 馃槄
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle


since the car sits on dolly's, it will be lowered 5.5cm, so it ends up on 23-24cm (9-9.5") above the ground
Automotive tire Wood Tread Asphalt Road surface


I also welded on a new hanger for the "muffler" on the outgoing part that the rear bumper attaches to. This makes the mount sit almost on the middle of the muffler, spreading the carry load.

The hanger is made mirrored on the other side, so if the exhaust move to the left or right, it wont come of.
Automotive tire Wood Rim Tints and shades Gas



Timmy
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10
The rear bumper only has one exhaust exit, so I took forth the heatgun, sawzaw, grinder, some pipes, cardboard, a pen etc and started making a template of the right side hole. Made some markings on the left side, started cutting and melting the plastic and came up with this. Besides the thing to the right in pic it turned out rather neat 馃檪
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Aircraft Airplane Hood


this is the right hand side exit that I tried to copy to the left side.
Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Aircraft


Yeah, this could definitely be something 馃榿 they look like they stick out alot, but they doesn't, probably will be visible better in comming pictures.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Automotive design

Vehicle Hood Automotive tire Tire Automotive lighting


I also took the opportunity to weld back the backpanel on the car again.
Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Automotive design
Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood


And turned my attention towards the widening of the car again.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tire Tread


A friend came by and we taped this. The black marking in the sideskirt is where it most probably will be cut so it sits along the side of the car and then follows the widening out. It will be a smoother angle too, rather than this that just goes straight out.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood



Timmy
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10
So i filled all the gaps with this maskingtape so it would be more "solid"
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood


Then i transferred the silhouette on cardboard and put that on the car
Tire Wheel Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle


I have also taken the new metalsheet and clamped it onto the car
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bicycle tire


I had to make a small cutout and bend it a little so the door could clear it
Wheel Tire Hood Automotive tire Tread


I also made this backcardboard to stiffen up the widening on the door.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Hood


And this is how they meet together when door is closed. The cardboard part will probably be made in glasfibre, but time will tell.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Car Tire Wheel Vehicle Hood


Next up was to fill in the gaps.
Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior


More cardboard 馃榿馃榿
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Fender


And a new piece in metal 馃榿
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Fender


Yesterday evening, if I was quicker on the throttle, this thread might have come to an end 馃檲

Timmy
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This is insane! I love it!
10
This is insane! I love it!
Thanks 馃檪 and yeah, sometimes I have to sit back and think of what I've done 馃槄 and why 馃槀馃槀 It would have been soo much easier to just throw in a new locker in the rear and a bigger turbo on the oem engine, and in the end be like everyone else. Not that it's bad because the "redblock" is tested well over 700hp. One dragcar even got 2000hp in it, but that's serious modifications ofc.

Even though I'm not good at fabrication and such, so the things doesn't turn up as good as I want them too, this is still a one of a kind build, because atleast I've never heard of a Volvo 740 V8 twinturbo Quattro before 馃檪


I did make a new piece of metal because I cut the old one wrong. Then I tacked the new part to place and left some metal in place at the bottom just in case.
Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle door


I jave also cut the new wing in half, because while widening the arch, the lenght between the rear bumper and front of wheel arch became bigger.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire


I clamped it in place to see how it will look like
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Car Vehicle
Motor vehicle Wood Gas Automotive exterior Bumper
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Automotive tire
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Car Vehicle


And I left the widening there for a while again to just look at it on different days, walk past it several times too see if I'm happy with it etc.

And while doing that, I cut an Volvo 850 rear spolier in half that I've found at a scrapyard. This was also laying on the car for a while, and I'll think I will go for it actually. I will buy two new squaretube that is longer and made in aluminium, to brace the spoiler better so it doesn't sack in the middle as it does now.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Wood


Also gonna need to fabricate new brackets to make it sit on the trunk propperly, but how hard could that be compared to the rest of the work on this car 馃槄
Vehicle Wheel Tire Grille Hood


When I was 18 I made this "hybrid" roof spoiler that combines two different spoilers from Volvo estate models. The outer parts are from one car and the middle part with brakelight is from another.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper


But I'm not as thrilled on this spoiler as I was when I were 18, and also compared with the trunk spoiler 馃 So right now I still want to go with just the trunk spoiler.
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior


Timmy
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10
I welded on the rear part of the new fender which left me with this gap since I pulled the fender outward for the widening.
Tire Automotive tire Hood Tread Motor vehicle


It took a little while, but I made this
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Bicycle tire Crankset
Hand Crankset Bicycle tire Wheel Automotive tire


And it fitted nicely in the gap 馃檪
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Car


only problem is that I'm not happy with how the lines are.. It doesn't even point straight forward 馃檲 So I have to redo some things.
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Fender Gas


But as usual, I want to see if I'm happy with the fender, and while doing that I took out the engine and gearbox.
Car Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Vehicle


Piece after piece its getting more ready to come out.
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Car


Finally lift time
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior


And this is the reason for taking the engine out.
The upper oil pan gasket was leaking oil.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Tread


So out with the old and in with the new 馃檪
And of course one of the bolt holes was bad thread 馃う鈥嶁檪锔 So when I put it all together again I had to make some longer threads and a longer bolt to make it tight. The old gaskets almost felt like plastic and was rather easy to crack, so it was definitely time to change them 馃槄
Automotive tire Automotive design Engineering Motor vehicle Machine



Timmy
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10
Here's the bolt that I had to make new threads and longer bolt 馃檪 I took what I had laying around, would ofc be nivlcer with a similar looking one, but it will not be visible once the engine is back in 馃檪
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Musical instrument Automotive exhaust


I also started to look into my clutch selection. I was using the automotive flexplate along with the 034Motorsport's manual conversion insert
Automotive tire Crankset Motor vehicle Automotive design Wheel


Along with a Southbend clutch kit.
I started too look up the numbers on this things and discovered that this kit was made for 508nm (375ft-lb) which isn't gonna take me far.
Wheel Tire Motor vehicle Automotive tire Locking hubs


So now I was looking at my upgraded clutchkit that was supposed to get on my 2nd engine with higher boost level. The red is the 034, the turquoise is the Southbend kit, the yellow is an TTV Racing flywheel, amd the blue is my Clutchmasters kit.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bicycle tire Crankset Wheel


I got the 8-puck FX400 because I've never driven anything with more aggressive clutch, so inwas afraid it would be to jerky eith 4- or 6-puck and went 8-puck.

The salespitch on this one is that it handles 170% power increase compared to oem clutch. This is how they calculated it:
"Example 1:
We are going to buy a street-friendly clutch for inspired driving for a Skyline R33 GT-R tuned to 450hp. This car has 280hp from the factory and has therefore been increased by 60%. (450/280=1.6 "60% above OEM")*

Example 2:
This clutch is for a WRX STi 15+ that is to be driven only on track with approx. 750hp. This car has 300hp from the factory and has therefore been increased by 150%. (750/300=2.5 "150% over OEM")*"

My engine has 340hp and a 170% increase would give me 918hp, way more than I need for registration and 2nd step at 550hp.

But, after contact with the company, they responded that the clutch is made for 420ft-lb torque, 569nm. My v8 has 410nm stock. This is 39% increase of power.

When trying to sort this out, he only wants to sell me a twin disc clutch setup, and to do so he wants me to ship my flywheel across the world.

So I dropped that.
Plant Automotive tire Art Tree Wood


It does ofc sit well in the TTV flywheel as it is the correct clutch.
White Engineering Gas Font Circle


but not on my 034 insert, because it's made for another type of clutch.
Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Wood


the basket (correct word?) Is different made, where the yellow arrow points, the surface is deeper on the soutbend compared to clutchmasters.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior
Tire Automotive tire Hood Wheel Automotive lighting


Anyhow.
I went on installing the FX400 because it was better than what I first put on my car. Not very happy about it since the clutch is almost as expensive as a twindisc setup that holds for 1600nm (1180ft-lb). But sometimes one learns the hard way..

This clutch will hopefully do the 1st and 2nd step of power increase, 450hp at registration and 550hp after that. Then I will source a twin disc for the next engine swap that holds for my 3rd step, cramp everything out of the engine, hopefullely atleast 800hp in the engine.
Automotive tire Crankset Motor vehicle Bicycle part Bicycle tire


Timmy
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