Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Administrator
Joined
·
201,871 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to see what you guys were using for your loom material, I like Javad's mesh style stuff. Where do you get that, and how much $$'s are we talking.

Any other ideas welcome, gonna be running lotsa wire for the V8 deal cause I'm gonna rewire most of the wiring for the dash gauges too.

Tanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,501 Posts
Hmmm, the only thing resembling what you are talking about that I could find in the catalog after a quick search was a product called 'snake skin'.

Is this it?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
201,871 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yay! You guys are the bestest 8) 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,137 Posts
Ah yes, and lemme throw this out generally, when I build an engine harness, I like to build it in sub-harnesses. Its tempting to build one, thick harness out of the ECU and only branch off it when necessary, but making modular sub-harnesses makes modifying and changing the harness in the future easy, w/o ruining the entire harness.

For example, when I built my Stage IIb harness originally, I created a sub harness for the coil wiring, and when I put in the IIc and went to 5 coils, it was easy to create a new coil harness w/o disrupting the injector harness or any of the other wiring.

HTH
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,644 Posts
:stupid: Keep it simple, and easy to work on. My latest thing has been to use friction tape leading into regular old plastic split loom. Ford likes to do this. Wrap the wires that need to be flexible and that are close to heat, then fed them onto the loom and zip tie to secure. The key is to have everything accessible later on when you need to run that one additional GPO output wire all the way across the engine bay. Napa also sells some asphalt coated stuff that works OK, but can get frayed after a while. I've melted the plastic stuff and it can be annoying, but it really is a good indicator that those wires should be much better insulated anyways.

And I thought this stuff was only good for hockey sticks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I use cold shrink tape from http://www.waytekwire.com/

Although it is a dog to remove it if you need to, it protects extremely well for the same reason. There is also a draw back of making the harness a little rigid, so when you are making it, you have to account for longer turns.

Considering that I have mud or sand in the engine bay on places you would never imagine I need an almost water tight solution.

The final look is also clean if you take your time wraping it.

Later,

Carlos

ps. at the same time who am I to say something? my car is still on the same stage.
Granted I took the weekend off to do some functional cosmetics. It now sports 2 FC vents on the hood and a cabin vent with aircraft eyeball vents instead of the traditional truck side vent. OK this sentence sounds like coming from a PEP Boys commercial, but I needed them for practical and justifiable reasons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Hey guys, I've been watching this thread because I get a bit anal about wiring harness construction as well. One of the best sources I've found is www.waytekwire.com. They have a similar product to the one described called "expandable sleeving" as well as most any other automotive wiring product you'd like all at reasonable prices. No affiliation, just a happy customer.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
201,871 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
daveap said:
Hey guys, I've been watching this thread because I get a bit anal about wiring harness construction as well. One of the best sources I've found is www.waytekwire.com.
Ahhh, thank you very much thats the place I've been meaning to order some stuff through but couldn't remember the name. The order has been placed now, and the sleeving is on it's way 8)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,662 Posts
There is a sheathing called RayChem. Two versions of it that we've used. One is a glorified shrink tubing, the other has what is basically an adhesive inside. Once heated, it will seal your loom up, and protect it against water/dirt. We use that variant on the FSAE car. Does not really make the wiring any "stiffer" either.

http://www.raychem.com/US/datasheets/hstubing.asp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
325 Posts
I just went to frys electronics, they sell heat shrink tubing in like 5 foot lengths for like $1.50-$3.00 depending on size. Altogether it cost me like 8 dollars. It's high quality stuff too. Hard to burn through, even with a soldering iron with dirrect contact for like 15 seconds. It was still good.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top