Automobiles Forum banner

Kenny's UrS4 now with 257 SXE Built Engine

42K views 141 replies 28 participants last post by  morris400 
#1 ·
what small mods should i start with. id like to keep the stock feel as much as i can but would like a bit more power. im looking at exhaust and chip from 034, is there a point in doing a intake? i come from a B5 S4 where there was no point as it made less power the stock air box.

im not going to upgrade the turbo any time soon, just looking for a few bolt ons and some interior/exterior mods ( no body kits) maybe a lip or euro lights ect.

Here she is,











thanks guys,

Kenny
 
See less See more
9
#4 ·
Skip the exhaust for now. I'd say either a chip from 034($400 and 30hp), chip and injectors from 034 (750 and 80 HP) or billet turbo with chip and injectors from hank and Marc ($1500 and 150 HP). any of these options are great bang for $ and will retain stock comfort for the same or less cost than c chip/exhaust.
 
#5 ·
Ben Swann chip, Samco hoses, and 710N diverter valve (stock on TT's). clean the MAF as well.

Want better lights, just get a DDMTuning.com 55 watt HID kit for your projectors. I have 5k HIDs from them in my lowbeams and fogs and I love it. Get some clear corners if your into that for a clean look (i hate amber corners), and Euro tail lights look nice too over the stock ones if you are looking for an "upgraded" stock feel/look as does carbon fiber trim from a '93 S4.

stock airbox is usually pretty good because K&N cone filters have that oil on them that gets on the MAF and from my experience, they don't like that. But if you ditch the stock airbox you can really hear the turbo spool and the diverter valve nicely.
 
#6 ·
I'm leaning towards the exhaust only cause the seller says the cats are blown, so I'd like t straight pipe it. I'll stay away from intake, k&n filter was ok on my b5 but I'd rather use a dry filter or stock. I may go with chip and injectors from o34.
 
#8 ·
I'm going to order a new shift boot from shiftstyle, I had one on my b5 and loved it. Looking I to shift knobs as well, how do I get the stock knob off? And how does the stock shift boot connect to the knob?
 
#11 ·
Ordered a new shift boot today and the plastic part from audi, also ordered a podi boost gauge which I will vent mount. Will post pics as soon as its all installed.
 
#12 ·
The shift knob just screws off if you didn't get that one figured out already. I have to say I love the way my 200 drives, I have a stage 1 ish chip, koni/H&R suspension setup, a decent soundsystem, etc.

One thing I love is the all metal bypass valve, I have one on my sedan and it makes the bypass noise quite a bit louder which I really like. Not obnoxiously loud, but loud enough that I see people hear it and look at my car funny.

Some people also remove the wedge from the stock throttle body, or at least they do on the 7a. I did it on my coupe and I thought I noticed a small difference in throttle response but who knows. Also if you haven't yet there's the best free mod... Cut the speed input wire to the diff lock control box so it stays on till you turn it off =D

As said, for the headlights you can just run HIDs in the stock housings, the US lights aren't all that different from the euros. As far as other body related stuff some people like the M3 style trunk lip spoiler look, and a lot of people replace all the interior lighting with red LEDs (switch and instrument lighting). You can also get a steering wheel/clockspring/console covers from a '95 S6 for the three spoke sport wheel.

There's probably more relatively simple mods people do pretty often but that's what I have off the top of my head.
 
#13 ·
Thanks paradox, I'm looking into some of that. I have another question, I noticed my idle is a bit high, any idea why? I do have a cel for no cats could this be it?
 
#14 ·
Looks normal to me. Usually an idle problem if not a vacuum leak is the ISV sticking, but that's about where my 200 idles.
 
#15 ·
paradox11235 said:
Looks normal to me. Usually an idle problem if not a vacuum leak is the ISV sticking, but that's about where my 200 idles.
Probably is a vacuum leak somewhere. A sticking ISV would cause the idle to oscillate/swing.
My S6 idles at 800-820 approx.
 
#16 ·
I'm gonna look into it soon, where is the best place to tap into for a boost gauge? In my b5 I did it off the fpr. What's best in the urs4?
 
#17 ·
morris400 said:
I'm gonna look into it soon, where is the best place to tap into for a boost gauge? In my b5 I did it off the fpr. What's best in the urs4?
Look for the hose going to the ECU. T into that. You should see the same signal as the ECU.

Btw, you want my chip set?
 
#18 ·
ChrisAudi80 said:
morris400 said:
I'm gonna look into it soon, where is the best place to tap into for a boost gauge? In my b5 I did it off the fpr. What's best in the urs4?
Look for the hose going to the ECU. T into that. You should see the same signal as the ECU.

Btw, you want my chip set?
Where would I find the hose, is it under the glove box, on can I tap in through the engine bay?

With the chip set, how easy is the install, can I do this my self?
 
#19 ·
morris400 said:
ChrisAudi80 said:
morris400 said:
I'm gonna look into it soon, where is the best place to tap into for a boost gauge? In my b5 I did it off the fpr. What's best in the urs4?
Look for the hose going to the ECU. T into that. You should see the same signal as the ECU.

Btw, you want my chip set?
Where would I find the hose, is it under the glove box, on can I tap in through the engine bay?

With the chip set, how easy is the install, can I do this my self?
Look at the back of the block/intake manifold. There are 2 vacuum hoses running there. One for the FPR and another for the signal to the ECU.
If you have A/C, a line Tees of the FPR hose to a valve for the HVAC system. Do not mess with the yellow plastic line to the ECU.

If your ECU is socketed, you can install the 2 chips yourself. Real easy. If not, ask some one you know (or someone in your area with a UrS) or a tuning shop if they can help.

edit: Make sure all components for the engine are in order first. Sensors, hoses etc. Check for boost leaks.
 
#20 ·
Ok, I've been told its easier to do it off the ecu however I like the idea of going through the engine bay. Does it matter which our the 2 hoses I tap into?
 
#23 ·
Pics added, I have some small mods on the way, so far just a new shift boot and a podi boost gauge. Looking to do custom exhaust soon, I'm gonna keep the stock dp or I may get a o34 dp, and get a 3 inch stright welded on and bent to fit. Still debating on a muffler. I'm already cat less.
 
#24 ·
morris400 said:
Pics added, I have some small mods on the way, so far just a new shift boot and a podi boost gauge. Looking to do custom exhaust soon, I'm gonna keep the stock dp or I may get a o34 dp, and get a 3 inch stright welded on and bent to fit. Still debating on a muffler. I'm already cat less.
A 3" now is pointless. The stock exhaust is no restriction until you push 350 chp.
Get the car 100% technically first. Check the sensors and such. If you have to change the cam position sensor or coils or the O2, it get pricey. If you have to upgrade something, start with the front brakes. The NA UrS cars front brakes are a joke.
 
#25 ·
ChrisAudi80 said:
morris400 said:
Pics added, I have some small mods on the way, so far just a new shift boot and a podi boost gauge. Looking to do custom exhaust soon, I'm gonna keep the stock dp or I may get a o34 dp, and get a 3 inch stright welded on and bent to fit. Still debating on a muffler. I'm already cat less.
A 3" now is pointless. The stock exhaust is no restriction until you push 350 chp.
Get the car 100% technically first. Check the sensors and such. If you have to change the cam position sensor or coils or the O2, it get pricey. If you have to upgrade something, start with the front brakes. The NA UrS cars front brakes are a joke.
i understand what your getting at with the exhaust, only reasin im looking to upgrade is because the cats have been deleted by po, and there is only one rear muffler but its a bit of a hack job welding job. id like to get a little more tone and aggressive sound as well as a exhaust that is better put together. im going to remain catless.

i agree with the front brakes, what is a good upgrage that will both be semi bolt on and semi cheap as im on a tight budget. will B5S4 brakes work?
 
#26 ·
HP2 calipers are (IIRC) what the euro UrS4s come with, but from what I know of them is they're impossible to find rebuild kits for nowadays and don't offer very good offset for wheel fitment.

Look into some d2 a/s8 or b6s4 calipers, they're pretty cheap and ought to bolt up. (double check first tho)
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top