Thanks. I got some stuff painted but got the wrong shade of red. Ill put another coat of a closer red when I get a can but I think it already helps the engine bay looks a bit.


Also put a coat of matte black on the battery holder and bare metal area


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Knocked some stuff out. I didnt think to take photos till everything was done.

I pulled the pistons under the "X" plugs out of the brake power assist side of the hydroboost pump. Got it installed and found I had to flip the bracket I made for the alternator. With that done and the the serpentine belt installed I now have power steering.


I also replaced the old lifters with new INA lifters. During the process I noticed I didnt get the 7a cams aligned dot to dot like I thought I did so they were a tooth off. That explains the super loopyness at idle. Got the cams properly lined up and timing set to factory timing marks. The engine idles way smoother now and the loud clattering when warm looks to be fixed now.



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Worked a little more on the car today. I fixed the intercooler fitment as it was super low and of center.

Before:


After:


It looks way better now. I'm thinking of putting a mesh grille in and see how it looks.

I put the motegi wheels back on that the car came with. A buddy sprayed them black when he bought them from me but I got them back free when he totaled the car they were on. Im liking the way it looks so I may respray them black or a gun metal grey later on. Found out the rear track rods and control arms bushings are shot so that will need to be addressed.


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Made a score at the local pic and pull.
Got some good girling calipers


Reman steering rack that was in the trunk of the car. Looks like it was never installed


Forged control arms


Core support for when I do the b4 hood swap


May go back for the strut housings since it was a 2 peice unit


saw these interesting seats in the car also. Can anyone ID them ?


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They look like the optional Cabrio seats...

That car also has the Cabrio Sport steering wheel. Grab them if you can.

That's a seriously clean pair of used calipers! Those seats always looked kind of goofy to me. I've only ever seen one car with them in person. Just remember to take the knuckles with the strut housings. B4 uses a larger bolts holding them together.

The car was pretty clean under it and overall to be a Michigan car so I'd think it came up from down south not to many years ago.

As for the seats its the first time I've ever seen those seats. It reminded me of the bmw e36 m3 "Darth Vader " seats.

I plan on going back for the strut housings this week if I get the chance. I should of pulled them one time but wasnt thinking.

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Nice haul! I wish my local yards had old Audis.

Yea where I live pre 96 audis are rare birds. Ive seen like 5 or 6 old audis In the junk yards I frequent. Thats in the almost 2 yrs of being up in Michigan.

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Honestly, the seats (and to a lessor extent the steering wheel) are super rare. Yank them too.

Contemplating the seats. Since they seem to be so rare even though ripped.
I went back and pulled more.
Got the strut assemblies and the steering wheel and mirrors. Mirror glass are super clean. Mirrors and wheel will go up for sale to find the project more

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seat: extremely heavy and you will need the rails too

Not if he has manual seats, then everything is the same...

The tracks look different than my manual tracks. I wouldnt use them in my car anyways as I have am after market seat and harness installed

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^^^^^


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Got more work done on the car before getting called back to work.

Swapped out the leaky rack with the non leaking unit I got form the local yard.
I also went back to day and grabbed the steering damper as mines was worn out.
I'll swap that in when I install a new feed line since the current one is has a small leak

Leaky


Non leaky


Also decided to try out using a front radiator instead of the Honda half radiator like I planned. Radiator is from a 4 cyl audi 90. I slightly modified it to shorten the overall height by removing unwanted brackets and trimming material from the top and bottom metal c channel. I needed somthing to mount everything to. Since the factory bar wouldn't work I made a quick mounting bar to hold everything and that took care that issue





I had to down size the fans a little bit and put them both as pushers but I think it will be fine for now. I wired them up use the factory wiring harness so they automatically turn on. I chose the lower temp switch just so the fans kick on a bit earlier. I also have a spst switch inside the car that manually triggers the factory relay to kick the fans on



I changed how the intercooler sat as it was sitting pretty low before and was very of center which bugged me more and more just looking at it.
I think it looks way better now.



Took the car around the block after letting it get to operation temp as kinda of a pre shakedown to ensure it didnt over heat and to see if there was any immediate issues. Coolant temp was stable and didnt over heat during or when I let the car idle in 90f degree heat that day. Car is getting pretty close to being ready for its first true shake down. Just a couple more small things to do and now that DMV has finally opened up hopefully get some tags on it next week. Once those things are done I'll pretty much be done with part one motor swap of this project.

Nice work!

Thanks. Trying lol.


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So got the car registered and drove it to work and around a bit.
I changed out the stock oil cooler for a 19 row one.


Moved it to a better location for flow than where I have before. Now it sits pretty much how it would on a urs4. I plan on adding some shrouding also.


Took it out after to see the improvements on oil temp and all was going good till the car died when I was rolling into the throttle.
Had a code for 00515 g40 mechanical malfunction


I checked the mechanical timing it was good checked cranked cam key way both good. Swapped in a new cam sensor. Still g40 code no start. Swapped in a known good sensor, still g40 code no start. Checked power signal and ground, all good. Checked at ecu for signal, signal good.swapped crank sensors just incase, still no start. Annoyed and stuck at to what the issue I figured I'd pull the started to check the timing pin on the back of the flywheel and bingo, timing pin is gone. Guess that adds to the list of stuff that will give you a g40 code?


Now the fun part of pulling the trans and flywheel assembly to fix the broken pin. Not sure how it broke but I'd guess during installation of the trans I might have broke the long pins on the trans side of the flywheel and said pin made it's way to the timing pin and broke it idk.

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Got the trans pulled and the aftermath pretty much looks like what I thought happened.



The pressure plate fingers and disc looks to faired good so are still usable. I have another 7a flywheel I can use so now I'm just waiting on new flywheel bolts. Hopefully can get things together this upcoming week

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the pin is on the front (engine) side of the flywheel. you can inspect, fix it by removing the starter.

The 2 missing pins are for an VAG 1367tool, for timing angle, they can be removed.

Yea I found out that the trans side pins were for diagnostics when I was doing some research. I checked it at the starter hole and you can see in the prior post that the engine side pin was broken. I already pulled everything apart so I can make sure the pins are not still in the bell housing n to inspect if anything else got damaged

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