Have you thought about a 180* silicone hose for the intake?

I used one for my EFR intake. I had to trim it to make it work behind the RS2 headlights:



or maybe some combination of cobra head elbow?

indeed, good to see you back.

I had the hose for a 4” inlet to the turbo from 034, however, I’m thinking it’ll get sucked closed so prefer hard. That and I love me some carbon fibre jewelry

Glad to see you back, this is one of my favourite projects of all time.

Nice to see you are back at it, lots of inspiration for those of us that are amateurs with all your fabrication and work (or at least for me)!!


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Glad your back at it. Gives me more motivation.

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Looks good! It's great seeing progress being made!!

Another update for those following and theirs with the kind words (additional pictures will be added as well)...

It certainly is not as much progress as I would have liked to have had by now, but working out logistics with getting parts to arrive prior to working on the project has been a pain. Never the less, lots of little pieces coming together and going forward.

I have been plugging away at the carbon fibre intake assembly (cold weather doesn’t cooperate too well), strengthening the elbow and adding the crank case breather vacuum and diverter valve fittings one batch of resin at a time. This requires making moulds, making fittings, and grafting them together, test fit, etc before the final beauty layer of carbon. I used 3/4” pex water pipe (leftover from a house project) as a mould, made the two small tubes, and then added them to the turbo inlet elbow.




While doing the glasswork, I worked on and shaped mould for the rain tray pieces. A spare firewall assembly was saved for this particular reason, holes blocked off, filled with expanding foam, excess cut, and then hand plain shaped. We all know the two rain tray pieces have gotten brittle over time and though complicated, I’ve taken it on. It may not look like much in its base layer woven cloth now, but it will be made separately (main rain tray piece, water diversion channels, and then the hood guard/lip) and then epoxied together. I tried to sleeker, smoother look so hopefully it will turn out alright.


I also ordered an accordion charge hose, silicone adapter elbow hose, some 2-1/4” mandrel bent aluminum tube, 1” aluminum tube, and hose clamps to fabricate my charge pipe (turbo discharge to Wagner intercooler) and with nothing being standard, it’s interesting to say the least. I have to connect the turbo and intercooler while dodging oil cooler hoses, turbo oil drain hose, and the AC accumulator and also maintain some room because some idiot went with hybrid diverter valve rather than a blow off valve. Took some figuring out, but I think it will work, as I have the diverter inlet (charge side) directly in line with charge pressure, welding it off of center to the 90 degree and the valve will sit parallel to the lower section tube with the use of a 90 degree silicone elbow, have ground clearance and have its discharge hose run up to the fibreglass turbo inlet elbow (expecting to use a 15 degree, long leg silicone elbow). I will add a bead rolled ridge when my new tool comes, ordered an actual tube bead roller rather than dies for my sheet bead roller as it’s harder than you’d think to add that ridge, straight, and have it look right.




I also designed a way to hopefully successfully delete the coolant tank and fill (I’ll hide a small expansion tank later). Working with a close friend and owner of Swoops Built, it’s been a pleasure to bounce ideas back and forth, as we work well that way to solve problems, but we have modified an billet aluminum in-line I found online, added an AN male fitting to it, and modified an aluminum heater core with a female AN nut to get the fill out of the way. We also added a sightglass to this in-line fill for quick coolant level reference.





And yeah, I couldn’t resist to commission him for a SwoopsBuilt engine oil dipstick too. The factory plastic guy was not keeping up with the classy class we have going on in here. He machines a handle via the lathe, uses stainless steel cable, and the end and level are crimped on machined sleeves. Thing of beauty.





Another bit I’m working on is the boost frequency valve or more commonly called N75. I wanted it hard lined to match everything and to keep it within the same movements of the engine (because of its hard lining) decided to mount it to the compressor housing. This tucks it out of sight and kept things somewhat simple saving a special bracket because all I did was have my neighbor CF Racing Chassis TIG weld a male -4AN to the compressor housing and using a -4AN female swivel to 1/8” NPT adapter it goes right together.

I also got more into the speedometer cluster project being as I’m mixing resin and glass on the daily (when weather/temperature permits). I cut, shaped, and inserted divinycell fiberglass core material (open cell foam core... boat stuff) into the rear of the cluster where I removed the cluster guts. This will add some beef and support to the plastic surround (it’s pretty brittle) and allow the cluster pack to be clamped to it.

Brilliant work, as usual.

Of course, should you ever decide to sell some of these gorgeous CF parts there would be a decent market out there... with myself at the front of the line.

Great work! Keep on truckin.

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In awe as always.

That would be 2 of us at the camping in the line... any thoughts on throwing us a number for the rain tray?


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Cost of materials alone would send most people running, so I’m not planning to make multiple units.

Material cost, complicated shape (to be done correctly, and be useful rather than simply a beauty piece), and the time to make each one is huge.

Sorry guys!

But that said, I’ve been throwing on a layer or two of glass to all my pieces, sanding glass and resin in between coats/layers, and adding the necessary strength before the final beauty, nice nice, presentable top layer of carbon.

This sh1ts for the birds

Never hurts to ask - either way I’ll enjoy watching your progress!


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Yesterday I brought to work with me the cluster surround and the fibreglass core piece that I cut and shaped to fit where the cluster’s guts originally were, hoping to have another opinion and advise on how to proceed from my friend Trevor (owner/operator of Ocean Innovations & Marine Technology). He explained how to lay up the glass in order to receive the desired sandwich effect I was going for and literally took it, as he was laying up boat parts that evening (after our day jobs at the power plant he builds boats & boat parts).

So, last night while I was at work he whipped up the back side of this thing (epoxied core and three quick layers of cloth) helping save me some time, keeping work ahead of myself, and now I dremel the shape back a bit, trim the excess, add some drilled holes for screws to keep the pieces together, and yeah...

(Pictures tomorrow)

The fancy new charge pipe flaring tool came in the mail just before working the overnight shift. This said, I took a few minutes away from working for the man to roll the turbo to intercooler charge pipe I made.

Unfortunately there was an interference between the larger roller of the tool and the larger tube when rolling the small tube causing me to only get 80% around the small tube. This would probably work fine once the silicone elbow is clamped on, but I like to do things correctly and therefore will make a plier tool to work the ridge into the remaining section connecting the ridge made by the tool. In hindsight I should’ve rolled in the ridge... then welded in the smaller tube or just left the bead of aluminum weld I had on there and filed off so I could use this stupid tool, LOL.

As much as version two usually turns out better, let's face it... you're still winning considering you don't have to start over from square one. And making a tool means you come out ahead after a bit more time invested than initially expected.

Took a few minutes last night to sand off excess resin, test fit, check clearances, and unfortunately prepare for more revisions of the carbon intake apparatus.

Unfortunately I need to increase the clearance near the radiator support, move up the tube for the diverter valve return, and possibly flange the tube to the crankcase ventilation suction.



All custom everything looks awesome when it’s completed, but man can it be frustrating. That and hard lines, making it neat, making it functional, and having it to my standard...

Dean, every time you touch that car you are making magic effort and making us smile. EVEN if it is only 0.01% of progress, it is 1000% more than we can imagine. <3

Finished up the the turbo discharge pipe by just rig welding a little bead where the roller didn’t complete the circumference on the small tube and then took her down to K&S Powdercoating for a touch of color to match the other charge pipes.




Also got to doing the cluster. I had laid up fiberglass on foam core material that was shaped to fit into the rear/guts of a factory cluster. The excess was trimmed away, over resin in channels and screw holes ground out with a Dremel, and then holes drilled for screws. Then screwed her in, re-cut a piece of flat carbon fibre sheet, shaped it as close as possible with a table top belt and disc sander, through bolted it with stainless Allen heads, and attached that to the front of the cluster. Once paired I was able to cut away for the Stack display, sand/shape the opening for a snug fit, and after trimming down the Stack retainer brackets (meant to hold the display to a thin sheet of fibreglass or aluminum), bolted it all together.

As everyone else has said, wow! Thanks for sharing

Little vacuum hardline from the WGFV to the wastegate

hardlines are clean looking

With progress came some changes, so parted ways with some of my spares that were planned for Mayhem. Of which was the OEM S2 auxiliary white faced gauge panel, which was due to deciding to go with the Stack cluster.

I sourced Stack gauges for voltage, oil pressure, and oil temperature that fit the auxiliary panel, coated the faceplate in Sem brand “trim black” paint, but found out that the VDO gauges are much shallower than stack (see below).

This discovery called for some crafty reworking. I figured the difference was approximately 10-12mm and spliced to gauge brackets together, cutting one 10-12mm off center (retaining the part number), the other down the center, a quick weld together, and knocked down any high weld points with the flap wheel. There were also clearance issues with the bolt holes and the Stack gauges having a wider pattern, so the holes were widened/oval’d out and the tears were clearanced and center connecting piece removed for wiring and to prevent a grounding out (I will also coat the non-spade terminal point/nut with liquid electrical tape as a precautionary measure).

A re-test fit confirmed everything was going to work out, so it was disassembled and dropped down to the powdercoater for a sandblast and fresh black powdercoating.

Bracket for the auxiliary gauges is was blasted, powder coated black, and I started putting it together. I’m now adapting the factory harness to work with it, snipping off the bulb sockets, extending the wires and installing covered female spades for the illumination and the plugs from the VDO gauges damn near fit, little tweak of the terminals and they will!

I’m also back on the plumbing and hard lines, want this plumbing done and behind me so I can get into the dreaded wiring.

Between clearance and wanting a flexible section (stainless hard line can crack or create issues), I’ve had to and will have to make some modifications. One of these is the coolant supply to the turbo. To create enough clearance and space for a flexible line (hidden under the exhaust manifold), I cannot really use a female flare, then a male to male adapter on either end, it’s a lot of fittings and a lot of space taken up. I’ve taken male male unions, lopped off one end in the lathe, drilled a recess, and TIG welded it to the hardline. Looks like it will work WAY better but will require me doing the same to the piece I have tucked behind the timing belt, so yeah, lots of disassembly for stupid perfection!

I’m taking this opportunity to redo the oil supply hardline, putting it more in line with the supply from the oil filter housing, and that will also require redoing the vacuum to the wastegate. A bit more time, but I want a sensible routing and want to be pleased with the result.

Another task I’m on in line with these is removing the coolant return freeze plug to install the one I made with the male AN on it. What a bastard it is trying to take that thing out with the engine in the car!