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"MAPI 90" Audi 90 20v quattro project

31K views 125 replies 8 participants last post by  Speedyurs4 
#1 ·
So I decided to make a thread on my Audi 90q 20v project I have been messing around with on my free time.
I picked her up sometime late last year from a guy in Indiana. Apparently, it was used as an ex-rally cross car and the interior was completely stripped then stuffed with a bunch of random parts. Other than some minor imperfections the body is pretty decent. The majority of the time till now was spent fixing half ass ghetto quick fixes the previous owner did(like using old hammer head to plug the hose that went to the aux radiator [emoji38] ), fixing vacuum leaks and cleaning up a bunch of butchered wiring. Other things I've done is swapping the factory bbs back on, cleaned up the bare interior a bit, put seats back in it, put all the door glass back in, fabbed up a snub mount since it was missing one, and straightened out some of the cut wirings. That being said there are some decent parts that the car does have like solid aluminum front subframe bushings, Bilstein shocks, and some other bits. Anyways, things that still need to be fixed is the lack of power brakes and power steering due to a leaking hose, leaking valve cover, and smoking that comes and goes.
I'm not too sure what I mainly want to build it to do but some future modifications I'm thinking of is:
Swapping an AAN in with 7a distributor running on a haltech e6x or turbo the 7A
Diy coilovers
Putting Benz s500 brembos on the front
redoing snub mount and make engine mounts also
Put in a roll cage
maybe hydro park brake
battery relocation
Tube part of the front end
This project most likely won't be finished anytime soon between college and an upcoming summer internship with GM Proving grounds.
Still, any thoughts or input is welcome and I'm going to post more pic on stuff I'm doing in the very near future :thanks:
 

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#52 ·
DE80q said:
Im actually trying to find it... I know I lent it to someone at some point, but not sure if i got it back... The problem is, who did I send it to haha.
Alright no sweat. I have to get or make a long enough 6mm Allen so I can pull the intake off. I found one of the tools on Amazon for 27 so might just get that and make a crank locking tool

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#53 ·
More progress. I removed the battery tray since I already have the battery somewhat relocation from earlier on. I also got in the a cta 14 in long 6mm Allen off of Amazon for the intake but as it turns out the shaft was to thick to fit in the holes. I then decided to make my own real quick and see if it would work. After chopping a 6mm allen, sacrificing a 1/4in Allen and topping it off with an AutoZone torx bit, then Tig welding them together, bingo! long 6mm allen. It worked nicely to pull the bolts out even though there was some twisting. The intake port for cylinder 3 has surface rust it looks like which is a bit of a concern. Hopefully I don't find the same in the cylinder. Next I popped off the valve cover and it doesn't look bad but I've seen better. I was wanting to pull the head but couldn't remember where I put my 12 point sockect set so I decided to call it a night and look for the set later


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#54 ·
PRY4SNO said:
Dave's crank lock tool is legit if you need to borrow it.
Not sure who's Dave but how long you reckon he would loan/Rent it out for

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#55 ·
Update
I got the engine torn down and things don't look bad like I was thinking it would be.
The head had no crack in between the valve or spark plugs area and the only damage I saw was a broken stud in the for the exhaust manifold from the previous owner and the cam sensor bracket I broke trying to pull off. :( . The block looks to have some glazing and has a bit of a ring ridge. In the bottom of the block the sump pick up I found some kind of hard brittle rubber that I'm not sure where it came from. on the top side of the block I didn't see any wall scoring or anything thing too concerning so I'm thinking that I can just ream the ridge then ball hone the cylinders to deglaze them and a decent cross hatch again. I like to get everything back together soon so I can start mocking up stuff for a custom intake but my ur4's fuel pump died on the way home from the store so Till I get her back up and running I'm putting the major stuff on hold. Not enough room to work how the big girls parked right now and Id hate to bang it up trying to work around everything.
I'm still planning out what's next on the list of stuff like getting arp head stud, MLS gasket and so on. Then once the engine and some rough mocking up of the intake are done I want to look at fitting in a 01E trans in. I still can decide between the 6-speed trans or 5 speed from the s6 I just parted.
 

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#56 ·
Here is the one I have. Was made between myself, and Elaw. A little rusty right now, but will take care of that tomorrow.
 

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#57 ·
DE80q said:
Here is the one I have. Was made between myself, and Elaw. A little rusty right now, but will take care of that tomorrow.
Okay let me know if you want to sell it or lend it. I got a fuel pump from the junk yard that looked pretty new from a 100 so once I get around to putting things back together I'll be back on the project car

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#58 ·
Just cover the cost of shipping to and from. Not looking to sell it, but no problem lending it out. Let me know if you still need a tail light as well.
 
#59 ·
DE80q said:
Just cover the cost of shipping to and from. Not looking to sell it, but no problem lending it out. Let me know if you still need a tail light as well.
Alright thanks will get to you on those when ready. I may try making a tool copying yours too. I plan on finishing the s4 today since I need to go out and ship something

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#60 ·
Got the s4 up and running. Decided to mess with the AC function of the new Tig and it's not bad just need to fine tune the settings. Made a little box copying one I did at work today.


Top is at work
Bottom is home
 
#61 ·
Update:
I pulled a rod cap and main cap to check the condition of the bearings. Found that the main pretty worn but not terrible and the rod bearings looked like it's seen better days. The crank looks good and has no scoring or bad wear patterns. I ordered a set of rod and main bearing that should be in this week along with arp head studs mls gasket set and a few other parts to start putting the bottom end back together. Im starting to look into some drive train parts as I want to start mocking up the 01e trans in. So far im keeping a look out for a 4k Quattro drive shaft. My dad says he may also have a b5s4 drive shaft some where as those are 1 in shorter also just the carrier bearing is located more rearward I believe. I'm also thinking of using a b6 3.0 a4 drive shaft and just having it cut to size since that's the 6spd trans I'm thinking about using and the car is still in the yard I pulled the trans from.


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#62 ·
Got most of the parts got in. Sadly looks like Fed ex had a field day with one package. Box was damaged and looks like FedEx tried to tape it back together but the timing chain looks like it already had fallen out during shipping. luckily the oil pan gasket seems to have survived the ordeal with only damage taken to the wrapping. I called fed ex and was told I have to call the shipper to open a claim so will give FCP a call tomorrow and hopefully get another one on fedex


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#63 ·
Update:
Went out and got a 2 inch pipe and a 1/8 inch thick plate then notched and welded it into a janky crank locking tool with my flux welder. Also bolted on a 7a snub mount as a bracing point

Excuse the current mess and clutter
.
While I was out at the store I also picked up a 3/4 18 inch breaker bar and 3-foot 1inch pipe.
First attempt failed due to the top bolt on the mount snapped the mounting ear on the block[emoji36].

My fault for not adding the 3rd bolt on the side and assuming the two front ones would be enough.
The second attempt I added the 3rd bolt and put the handle of a hammer between the crank and block and it looked promising but at half force, the engine stand started tilting so I aborted before it tipped over.
The third attempt I put a big pry bar in the rear outrigger of the stand and my tool cart on the front. At that point, I tried again and stood with my full weight on the end of the pipe but still not a budge. Hoping nothing snaps again I bounced a bit a success!!

The darn crank bolt finally broke loose and I was able to get the pulley off. No sheared keys and I think the block is still fine even though that mounting boss where the 7a mount was broke. Now I can move forward on the block. I'm going to install the pulley when the motors in the car so it's not such a pain trying to keep it from tipping. The score is now Crank bolt 4 me 1 [emoji23].
On that note, I called it a night and left the rest of the teardown for another day.

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#65 ·
jbrentd said:
Yeah, I thought about trying to loosen the crank bolt on my stand, but just waited until I got it in the car.

Oh, and that feeling when the bolt starts to move...feel a little too much like it shearing.

Good on you for making your own crank lock tool.
Yeaa bolt was a mother. I'm going to torque it when the motor is in the car so it's not such a pain hopefully.

The tool is not the best made or looking but it did the job being that I used a cut off wheel and flux welder. I could of made it better if I had the tools to I guess haha.

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#66 ·
Update:
So progress after finally getting the crank bolt out.
I got the rotating assembly removed from the block so I can start preparing it to go back together.
First I took care of the ring ridge in the cylinders.
Here is before



And here is after reaming the cylinder ridges.



Next I started cleaning the deck of the block with WD-40 and scotch Brite.
This is before scrubbing the deck,



Then half way,



And finally after


I made sure no oil passages had debris or gunk in them but I still plan on going through one more time before assembly to ensure all is clear.
Next on the agenda is cleaning the pistons while being sure not to scratch the tops as they are coated from what I read in the Audi work shop manual. After that I need to get a flex hone so I can refresh the cylinder bores.

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#67 ·
Update: flex hone came in today so I honed the bores instead of messing with the pistons.



I didn't take pictures but I also measured the bores to make sure they were still with in the 1.0mm max wear spec with the old ring things were still decent.

Next I flex honed the bores to clean them up then did the crosshatches My phone's camera didnt get a detailed enough shot on the cross hatch but I think the came out decent.




Gave the sides of block a quick power wash while I had it outside the garage. Think I might paint it a grey, black or red before assembly. I pull the mounts and oil filter housing also so Need to get a gasket for the housing now too


Lastly, I dried the deck, cylinder bores, and bottom end then spayed em down with wd-40 to prevent any surface rust.



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#68 ·
Update:

Made some progress on the motor today.
I painted the block black but it didn't really come out like I wanted . Still though it's not terrible.





While the paint dried I went ahead and started cleaning the pistons. I removed a good amount of carbon and stuff using wd-40 and a shop rag.( Right is before and left is after).



With that task checked off list I was now able to get on to assembling the engine. The crank, new bearings, and pistons with new ring are now in.



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#70 ·
Another update:

Got the bottom end pretty much buttoned up on the internals.

I removed the motor from the stand and placed it on my tool cart so I could install the rear main.
Cleaned it a bit and installed a new seal before install.



Next I was the front pump. I cleaned off the caked on grine as best I could then installed a new seal and installed the unit.



Afterwards I gave the pan the same treatment. I also power washed then the lighter stuff and heated up the tougher oil crud to get it out of the inside of the pan. Though I got a decent pic after but guess my phone decided to act up again and shuttered late and only got a edge pic haha



I took the block off my cart and put it on a dolly to store for now so I would still have access to the rear of the block later.



Almost ready to mount the clutch but first need to get the flywheel resurfaced. I wire wheeled it a bit to see if there was any cracks under the layer of rust and it looks decent. Need to order a pilot bearing when I order the oil filter housing gasket also.



Hopefully pretty soon the next major thing to work on is the head . The 7a have a intake spacer on it and I'm thinking if it would be work cleaning up and reusing it.





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#71 ·
jbrentd said:
Looks good to me. What did you use for engine paint?
Some enamel paint I had laying around. I think it should be fine even though it's not engine enamel paint as it rated for 300 degrees F. Well at least on the intake side haha

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#72 ·
Update:
Power washed a lot if the caked on oil and dirt out the engine bay. I'm still waiting on a gasket for the oil filter housing and need to get the flywheel resurfaced. In the meantime I started on the head and pulled the cams and lifters out.





The spark plugs found all had dirt caked in the holes. Cylinder 5's plug was pretty bad and I couldn't get it out the conventional way. I ended up Tig welding a bolt to the cylinder side of the plug, got it broken loose then chopped the head off the bolt so I could pull out the plug




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#73 ·
Looking good! Very creative solution for getting that plug out too!
 
#74 ·
vt10vt said:
Looking good! Very creative solution for getting that plug out too!
Thanks.
The Tig welder has been very handy.

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#75 ·
Update:
Installed 7a mounts on the block and started mocking up for fitment as I kept the AAN pan.



The AAN pan seemed to be real close on the passenger side and sitting on the subframe on the driver's side. I decided to modify the subframe for a bit more clearance plus I plan on doing a 01e swap later on.





Got out the angle grinder and removed the section from the subframe.



Rechecked clearance after and got the results I was looking for. Also I took some measurements so I can make some solid mounts.







Next, welded in some new material and painted it.





I'm going to have to remove some paint in on the passenger side area because after reviewing some photos I saw that I forgot to weld a small area. So that will be taken care of next time I get in the garage

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