Not too long ago I finished my 6sp RS6 and filled with boredom I bought a URS6 to build... It's became apparent I need to sell one or the other, and for some reason I just can't let the wagon go, so.. I'm going for best of both worlds if you will. Here's the game plan.
BCY Engine w/ custom frame rail mounts.
Custom headers + 6766 top mount turbo
SteveKen Manual Trans Adapter kit
Ringer Racing Stage 4+ / Ringer Racing Twin Disk (Undecided)
Twin Walbro 450 Fuel Pumps
1000cc injectors
Stock Motronic 7.1.1 / Engine harness
Goal is 700-850hp on the stock RS6 engine, fueling and turbo may change down the road but this is what I'm planning for #'s wise.
Tonight I went ahead and pulled the AAN engine, and I will update as I go along.
This isn't going to be another forum usual "This is the plan", then you guys reply "It's stupid, you won't follow through", and then you guys never hear from me again type of thing... That being said, college is in full swing and work has my balls tied up right now, so it will probably be a while before I get down to the nitty gritty of it all.
AAN came out tonight... already spoken for, but I will have the engine harness and MTM Stage 1+ ECU for sale.
Rear mount is definitely possible. I think aswell that with the turbo being so far away, the compressed air has cooled by the time it gets to the engine, so no intercooler? Could be wrong, but that'd free up so much room.
I was getting a really bad clunk from the rear end when i took it around the block today. Lifted the rear and the rear diff mounts seem fine, although everything is very crusty. I pulled less than 1l out of it, and put in 2l so it was definitely low. It drives much better now; I still need to address the rear end crust sometime down the road...
So, the car runs... and it runs very well. To start, I made a lower radiator hose to run back to the water pump out of 1 3/4" aluminum tubing. It came out awesome and was well worth it.
I'm actually considering doing 3/4" hardpipe for all the heater hoses running to and from the heater core aswell as the expansion tank.. it's a mess back there of 3/4" rubber heater hose I cobbled together to work; some hardpipe would alleviate a lot of room and just overall look better.
I've been trying to bleed the coolant the last few days and it's been rather unsuccessful. Lots of air pockets apparently because its violently bubbling out of the tank once it gets up to temperature. The radiator I have came with a fill neck and a radiator cap so I cut off the neck and welded a plate to it so that the highest point of the radiator is the breather back to the expansion tank.
I also am not getting any reading on the coolant gauge past the first hashmark. Can anybody confirm that the brown/yellow wire from connector T6A pin 5/6 is for the coolant gauge?
First shakedown today and to say the car runs like a beast would be an understatement! Coolant temp gauge won't work, but I've been using a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner to keep an eye on it with my phone. Something I will need to address sooner or later... I'll also need to either find a way to integrate the oil pressure warning and coolant warning into the cluster so it stops beeping or bypass it all together, but she runs... drives... and builds boost...Oh yea, and it sounds tits too!
Awesome work. It should be easy to tune yourself or someone else since its probably a ME7 ecu. Those have a crap load more of support for tuning me7 ecus vs m2.3.2
I've already had a base tune loaded on it and it seems to be doing very well. The ECU's are already set up for boost so it's really a plug and play win win.
The auxiliaries are slightly tougher apparently... haha
I've already had a base tune loaded on it and it seems to be doing very well. The ECU's are already set up for boost so it's really a plug and play win win.
The auxiliaries are slightly tougher apparently... haha
Not a fan of where you put the turbo, but nice work Joel. The car looks clean for 280K miles, but so did my 5k that had similar mileage. Until you looked at the rear suspension...
It is something I want to try to drive everyday; it'll go under the hood line eventually..
But there's no undeniable doubt in my head that it doesn't sound amazing! I need to install the 525lph fuel pump before I do an harder pulls, but it's still staying together for now!
Nope, I purposely kept the stock fuel pump in so I'd force myself to properly break the clutch in this time.
It should be good... so the new pump is going in this weekend and I'll start sending it with ad much antilag and NLS as the engine/turbo setup can handle.
The new thicker 10g and 40g stainless piping should be coming in this weekend, so as soon as something breaks the motors coming out and I'll be placing it in roughly the stock URS location with full turboback exhaust. It's going to be a sleeper that I can daily drive without blowing my ears out or getting caught in a rainstorm.
The car is running great, and in hindsight I'm very grateful that I started off with the obsurd "turbo out the hood". I had a lot of small issues that would've meant pulling the engine or at least would have been a struggle to resolve with a tight fit engine bay. So, now that all the kinks are sorted, it's time to get it closer and closer to being a daily driver.
I figure,best way to go about this is do the 2-1 collector first, manifolds second, and save the piping in between for last. The merge collector is fully finished and it came out great. It's going to be a tight fit, but I think it'll manage! Everything is schedule 10 304 Stainless Steel, quite the step up from the 16 gauge tubing I was using for the O.G. setup.
Just a little peep of what I did today. Should have it welded tomorrow once I get some hardware to bolt the exhaust flange down to my 1/2" steel plate. Once this one is set I will tackle the driverside and crossoverpipe, which should be worlds easier! Not a fan of having to run a log manifold, but given the major constraints, it's what I have.
Engines back in, but I'm still having the same issue which was the cause for pulling it out.
-New battery, also have jump box
-Cranks very slowly, voltage drops to about 6-7v while cranking and the car won't start.
I bench tested the starter and also turned the engine over by hand while it was out, no issues there.
Possible the starter is bad now that it has a load (the flywheel tone ring)?
what was the issue for pulling the engine? just to re-do the turbo setup?
With regards to the starting issue, have you tried adding more earth's to the engine/body to see if that helps? or tried powering the starter directly with a set of jump leads to see if its a wiring issue?
Joel, even time I see this project I think back to when you started with your CQ, and how far you've progressed. It also makes me want to say screw it and get the rest of the parts to put the 01E in, and then work on turbs for the CQ. Nothing major, I'd like to eventually be able to hang with my co-workers Coyote/6spd Mustang (E85 tune, full exhaust from the heads back, plus a few little intake mods that all work with his tune). He's pretty fast for what he's working with, he's pushing more at the wheels now than what it was rated from the factory by a decent margin.
Yes so I was driving it and the car started making a sound like the starter was engaged. Turn it off and pulled over; went to restart it and that's when the issue starter.
I noticed when I turned the fuel pump switch on the starter engaged. Fixed that issue and now I'm left with this one.
Starters coming out tomorrow for a rebuild up the street, and in the meantime I'll do the Intercooler plumbing and exhaust.
Thanks for the kind words koop, I was thinking about that the other day, and it's been a phenomenal experience. This is something I'd wanted to do for a while, but if I had to pay somebody for the fabrication... the build would've ended before it started! YouTube and the vast knowledge of the forums had gotten me this far.
Working on cars becomes so much more fun once you learn to fabricate to some degree. Anything becomes possible even if its not the best in terms of appearance. I'm sure you'd rather have a v8 turbo with "bad welds" than no v8 turbo.
Took the engine out. I sent the flywheel off to ClutchMasters for a new tone ring and ordered a new starter from Summit Racing. While I was waiting I put the engine back in and tried to tackle some others stuff...
Got the flywheel back so I took the engine back out... reversed the coolant flow to exit the driverside instead of the passengerside and bolted everything up; put it back in the car.
Finished installing everything today with hopes to make it out the the cruise in PA this Sunday, but that's not going to happen; mainly in part to what I think it a bad CPS. Cranks but no start; nothing changed wiring wise, and I'm not getting any movement on the tach when cranking. Guess it'll sit til I can get a new one in.
DAMN IT LOOKS GOOD...
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