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Audi 4KQ small project...

20K views 92 replies 17 participants last post by  kompressorgolf 
#1 ·
Well, decided I needed another 4KQ in my life, found a couple around they are not common in my neck of the woods so when they come up I tend to jump on em. Had one come up and was going for cheap. Drove out 100 miles to see the car and turned out it was much rougher than expected. He wanted 900 bucks for it. I decided to take it on a test drive, and was wowed by its performance. It drove awesome, cruise and AC even work flawlessly, everything perfect. Down side it has exited the roadway at some point and entered a forest backwards. I told him I would buy it for 600 as it was rougher than expected and he accepted. On the drive home I fell in love with it, having never driven a stock 4kq I was pleasantly surprised by its peppiness.

Now, while most of you (probably all) will think im crazy, but as I work in auto body, im gonna save it. I had just parted out another haggard red 4kq, and sold almost all its parts to a fellow motorgeeker, I was able to score back a red door, and tail light.


On the rack at work already

Began pulling the body damage.





Had to take it off the rack for regular work to resume, so I decided to give it a little bit of love, and see if its still red under that fade, and it is :)


Plan to make it my daily, while putting work into my CQ normal duties go to my S-10, but it has no soul, and I hate it. eventually mayble ill do a 10vt time will tell, something like this is what I have in mind


While dirty it has near flawless Quattro script interior


this 4kq gave its life for a couple projects (3) its Quattro floor are going in my sport Quattro build,

This car was Very rusty and had very poor bodywork done in both quarters, had inch thick body and put your finger through it rust :(
 
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#57 ·
So i took some time off the car, (working on it anyways) to help a friend with his project 4000. I was just enjoying driving the 4000 after about a year of getting it up to snuff bodywise.
here it is with its family.


We finished the motor swap in the red 4kQ, some of you may have seen or at least caught wind of this car. This is after it made its 12 hour drive home from bozeman to belleview WA.

and its conversation piece,


Once that was wrapped up, the owner of the red car convinced me it was go time for mine. He flew back in from seattle, while he was en-route i began stripping the bay as we hadnt painted it
at the same time as the rest of the car.


the timing was good i pulled the engine out of the bay just as he was arriving. he began pulling the booster and tucking harnesses through the firewall as i ground out the battery tray and un needed brackets and did the filler and primer on the spots



while that was drying and he was prepping the bay, i sanded and painted the booster and some brackets and things.




I also read the DIY about tensioner rebuilding, and rebuilt the tensioner pulley with a new bearing


then we boothed it up and shot the sealer base and clear


allowing that time to dry, i went through the AAN engine harness and pared out what wasnt needed, as alot of it in on the body harness for the 4000, oil pressure oil temp and coolant temp etc. and re fabric taped the harness. and all the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment. re installed the brakes too.






Then it was time to stab it. been on the stand for like 2 years lol




went right in no problem. Then started laying harness. From a timeline stand point, this is day 3 or 4 of the swap. And Marc had the hookup with the billet






got the harness done as much as i could without getting some other things installed so i switched to power steering. i went with a 1994 audi b4 2.8 pump. pressure is a bit higher, but its been done before on a 4k rack, my shit is nice and tight, so heres hoping :D the 4k supply line was a perfect fit, as was the pump into the bracket.




Went to an implement store where they made me up a cracking good pressure line, i added a few inches so i could tuck it back closer to the motor.


And that brings me to now, i just took my radiator to a shop to have my top hose connector switched to the other side. I primed the motor using a sringe to inject oil into the pump through the oil pressure sender. hit the key and it fired up immediately. Sounds great and got oil pressure right away. parts are inbound to build the exhaust and do the last of the work for the radiator etc.
 
#58 ·
got some more done last night. did a quick scuff and paint on the alternator. installed the alt and tensioner bracket. used a piece of wire to measure for a belt, if anyone does the same style, a 6 rib 46.3 inch belt is perfect. i told the parts guy it was 46.5 inches and he has 46.3 and 46.8 so i bought both. 46.3 worked so good i didnt even try the other. got the wiring on the alt, and there wasnt any charge light and wouldnt start charging. then i remembered the single connector under passenger headlamp, bam everything works perfect!




not sure if a vid will work but a short vid as well.
https://i.imgur.com/PcHj5Ed.mp4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
#61 ·
Got some more done, here is the last of the exhaust. not perfect but works for me


Got the radiator back, even tho his shop was aweful, the guy did a great job :D He hot tanked it and back flushed it. said it had some crud in there.
but it looks good in the hole. made a kick out bracket at the bottom. Made enough room to not have to relocate the idle air motor, and plenty of room
for a fan. I used a Maradyne 14 inch puller rated at 2200cfm. at first i wasnt buying its rating, then i seen how beefy the cables were, and when testing it,
it put any worries about its performance to bed.





Even fits with the washer tank and the coolant reservoir. That is the urs4 one as my 4000 one developed a leak, so i ordered a new 4k one.
.


Went to the parts house, to peruse the hoses and actually found a perfect upper hose. will have to make the lower hose. Then i started mocking up intercooler hoses.
the URS4 one actually fits good, just need to trim it so it drops vertical next to alternator.




Should have it driving this weekend!
 
#63 ·
varia said:
that fan very small...
It does look very small in the pics, its 14 inch and covers probably 75% of the rad. Its also a pretty wicked fan. I know fans and ratings never really go hand in hand. but its rated at 22** cfm. when it comes on it turns off after probably less than a minute of running. takes about 4 minutes to come back on. and thats at idle on an 85+ day. I am concerned about the fan etc, i will be keeping a close eye on it.
 
#64 ·
So, i had a looooong weekend. Saturday i got things all buttoned up enough to take a test drive. finished all the connections, hooked up everything. Filled the coolant burped it etc. fan was cylcing every 4-5 minutes. after it ran for about half hour, i hit the road. took it easy watching temps as it was about 90 degrees outside. Stayed right in the middle. giving light throttle, car was very smooth and responsive, turbo just trying to sing...

Then i hear a noise. Sounded like a wrench or a socket that was riding on the subframe fell out and went bouncing under the car. Flipped a Uey and went to look for it. didnt see anything. So i continied. The next stop sign the car dies. fires back up no problem, so i started heading back to the shop. Next stop sign dies again. about a block from the shop now. restarts and i take off. The low coolant light starts blinking, and i look in the rear view and see a trail so i shut it off and coasted into the shop parking lot. coasted into the shade.

Pop the hood to find the connection on the back of the block for the heater core had popped off. the clamp was regrettably not very tight. luckily there was a sprinkler right there next to the car so i hurredly put water in it to make sure it started to cool off. Got it topped off, hopped in to take it back to shop, and CLICK CLICK starter is hard clicking but not turning over. Put it in third gear and rocked the car, engine is locked up..... sit on the curb for a while. let it cool off almost completely. Nothing still locked up. Tow it to the shop and park it. Cant believe it, so i drive back to the shop at 930 that night, hoping that maybe it was just a headgasket and hydro locked. Pulled the plugs and its dry as a bone. Devastated.

Tail between the legs, next day i head to the shop to yank the heart.


Get the think about 90% out and i go to pull the starter, bolts out, and it wont come out. I had to use a prybar to jar it free. Thought to myself maybe the starter locked up or whatever. Put a wrench on the crank bolt, still seized. Then i see the end of the starter and my heart skips a beat.


Nice stamping of threads in the snout. so i look into the starter hole and see that something has been going for the spin cycle in there.


Pull the engine out and find my culprit.


Now im pretty methodical and careful, i have no idea how this fucker made its way in there. but the car been running for weeks. its not a pressure plate bolt, too long. all the hardware inside the bell is accounted for. just a rogue accident. Put a wrench on the crank, free as a bird baby. WHEW.....

Throw it all back in the car, get it all hooked up enough to start. Cranks good but doesnt catch, then it finally starts but have to stay in the throttle to keep it going. and the timing seems advanced as the turbo is really singing.... Consult a friend, and he gives me the no brainer idea to check the timing pinnnnnnnn. didnt even think to check it with engine out. so i pull the sensor bracket and roll the crank around, no pin.... but i also find the sensor has taken a shot too.




Here how she sat, when i was about to give up all hope....
 
#67 ·
So, i pulled the starter and sure enough pin snapped clean off. Instead of drilling etc. i had the urs4 pressure plate in my garage. so i took a hammer and smacked the square style pin and it broke clean off. so i cleaned it up and tac welded it on 3 sides to the 3b flywheel. Didnt get i pic of the new one.



Drove it home with no issues. Then later to DQ for some cream. the line was suuuper long. its near 90 degrees outside and the car never got hot. It just stayed right in the middle. Fan cycled every 3-4 minutes for about 2 minutes run time


So for now, here is the almost final engine bay. I have to say, alot of times running the AAN intake looks pretty messy. I wasnt in a place to spend big money on the intake. i definately didnt want to run the 3B/ABY style. i like the spread across the bay look. so i was just methodical with my placement of things, and i think it looks like a pretty damn clean setup! and i was also able to use alot of the URS4 intercooler rubbers. sure they had to be trimmed a bit but i used both the intake side hose, and the one right off the turbo.

 
#69 ·
varia said:
seems like your radiator hose connected backwards, should go to the bottom of the radiator.
I think all water manifolds feed the top of the radiator, which would make this correct.

Beautiful car (love the paint) and awesome progress, it's good inspiration for the B3 AAN swap I'm starting in on.
 
#70 ·
vt10vt said:
varia said:
seems like your radiator hose connected backwards, should go to the bottom of the radiator.
I think all water manifolds feed the top of the radiator, which would make this correct.

Beautiful car (love the paint) and awesome progress, it's good inspiration for the B3 AAN swap I'm starting in on.
ahh thats an AAN water manifold....

But than, how is it router from the thermostat to the bottom of the radiator?
 
#72 ·
varia said:
vt10vt said:
varia said:
seems like your radiator hose connected backwards, should go to the bottom of the radiator.
I think all water manifolds feed the top of the radiator, which would make this correct.

Beautiful car (love the paint) and awesome progress, it's good inspiration for the B3 AAN swap I'm starting in on.
ahh thats an AAN water manifold....

But than, how is it router from the thermostat to the bottom of the radiator?
Here is a pic, i just made a hose. this pic is just mock up, its fits better after it was finallized, no kink at the tstat housing. It probably looks wierd because i had the top port of the radiator cut out of the rear, and resoldered into the front of the radiator.

 
#75 ·
kompressorgolf said:
Honestly there is enough room, i could probably put the AC back in and not have it look hacked together....hmmmm
I'm planning on keeping A/C, it won't all be there initially, but probably after I drive it through this winter I'll go back and add it in. I cut up my intake manifold so I'll keep the stock radiator/condenser/fan setup, although your setup looks so spacious and clean it's tempting.
 
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