Automobiles Forum banner

JBD's Project CQ - She's Alive!

108K views 442 replies 59 participants last post by  jbrentd 
#1 ·
Well, after a couple of years of mostly lurking here on MG, I thought I would introduce myself now that I have a project to add to the site. I have owned two Audis prior to this one (a '96 A4 12v and my current daily driver which is an '01 A4 Avant).

CQs are hard to come by locally here in Oklahoma. So, the wife and I went to Chicago last weekend and we met up with the previous owner of this '91 CQ. It's rough, needs lots of work, but it was cheap. My plan, in time, is to fix it up and do a 20vt swap, but it won't happen overnight that's for sure. I'll be moving slow as time, space and money permit. Now, on with the pics.









While on the way home, it hit a milestone.

 
See less See more
5
#303 ·


DAMN! is that really rust!! :eek: :eek:

I saw the picture on facebook and thought it was what was left of the underlay/under carpet stuff. Out of the 50+ cars i've had I have yet to see any of this year/model coupe's with that much rust.

Where was the car from originally? I wonder if the matrix had gone and water sat in the footwell?

Hopefully it is just surface rust, if so that will be easier to sort.
 
#304 ·
Pete82 said:


DAMN! is that really rust!! :eek: :eek:

I saw the picture on facebook and thought it was what was left of the underlay/under carpet stuff. Out of the 50+ cars i've had I have yet to see any of this year/model coupe's with that much rust.

Where was the car from originally? I wonder if the matrix had gone and water sat in the footwell?

Hopefully it is just surface rust, if so that will be easier to sort.
Yeah, that picture on Facebook was before I removed the carpet pad. I've always had a suspicion there was a water issue, based on some rust around the floor mat pegs. But I was shocked to see how widespread it is. Seems to be limited to the driver's side footwell. The heater duct that runs to the rear footwell has a rust colored water mark on it. I'd estimated it had an inch or two sitting for a while.

Car is from Milwaukee, but has little to no rust on it externally. Most I've seen has been on the rear subframe.

I plan to hit it with a flapper disk to see if I can get to some good metal. If it is all the way through, would it be best to make my own floor pan and weld it in?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#305 ·
Holy crap! I thought mine was rough! I would scrape it, wire wheel it, then use a good converter and paint on it. As long as it's not through, you should be fine.
 
#306 ·
DE80q said:
Holy crap! I thought mine was rough! I would scrape it, wire wheel it, then use a good converter and paint on it. As long as it's not through, you should be fine.
Agree, hopefully its just surface rust.

Good luck with it, I found some rust on my white cq and ended up switching to a black 7a turbo cq instead but even that needs work :frustrated:
 
#307 ·
I've come this far with this car, not gonna let this stop me.

I had very little time today to work in the garage, but I did manage to hit a small spot of the floor pan with a 60 grit flapper disk. I need to get some wire wheels for my grinder. With just some light grinding, bare metal started to peak through. Granted, this was a higher spot, but hopefully the rest will clean up.

I do know of at least one hole. It presented itself while just scraping off the flaky stuff. Weird thing is the underbody coating looks perfect from underneath, even where the hole is.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#309 ·
Pete82 said:
Hmm strange, at least looking at that it looks like some reasonable metal under the surface.

Whats your plans for the running gear once done? full s2 rep 5 stud?
Probably not the most popular choice, but I am sticking with stock brakes. Maybe I'll do the 5 lug and bigger brakes down the road. A lot people do it for more wheel choices, but I like the TSWs a lot.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#311 ·
Like I said on the other site, please use a wire wheel in a drill. If you've seen my coupe thread, than you've seen the damage you can do even with that. I went from a dime sized hole, to Swiss cheese with a little scraping and a wire wheel in a drill.

Also, you can out me in the list for those wheels too haha
 
#312 ·
DE80q said:
Like I said on the other site, please use a wire wheel in a drill. If you've seen my coupe thread, than you've seen the damage you can do even with that. I went from a dime sized hole, to Swiss cheese with a little scraping and a wire wheel in a drill.

Also, you can out me in the list for those wheels too haha
Glad to hear other like the TSWs as much as I do.

Thanks everyone for the advice. This is new to me, so you won't insult me at all by offering even the most basic of tips.

Considering that I would be applying a rust correction product like POR15, am I looking to just knock down the high spots?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#313 ·
jbrentd said:
DE80q said:
Like I said on the other site, please use a wire wheel in a drill. If you've seen my coupe thread, than you've seen the damage you can do even with that. I went from a dime sized hole, to Swiss cheese with a little scraping and a wire wheel in a drill.

Also, you can out me in the list for those wheels too haha
Glad to hear other like the TSWs as much as I do.

Thanks everyone for the advice. This is new to me, so you won't insult me at all by offering even the most basic of tips.

Considering that I would be applying a rust correction product like POR15, am I looking to just knock down the high spots?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Definitely don't want to remove any metal, just the loose stuff. You'll want to pick your wire wheel wisely, and not get one that is super stiff.
 
#315 ·
I have wrapped all of the wire bundles in new cloth tap and I'm crossing my fingers that I have not disturbed them too much. I have not seen any sections where the wire insulation has flaked off.

Last weekend I managed to scrape all of the original sound proofing material off. Driver's side rear floor had more rust than I thought it would, but not nearly as bad as the front. I also was able to remove the sticky residue left behind in the areas where the metal was in good shape, but failed to snap a pic afterwards.

Next up is to find all the holes and thin spots and start prepping for POR15. I plan to use a combo of mesh and several coats of POR15 on those areas. I think I am going to coat the entire area under the carpets in it. It'll be black, but it's all covered up by carpet and trim.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#317 ·
Pete82 said:
I'm sure i've seen some paint on products that will kill the rust that you can paint over with por15. Would be worth giving it a go over with that stuff then por15 it before doing new under carpet material.
I do plan on using the POR15 metal prep that etches the metal and leaves a zinc phosphate coating behind for the POR15 to adhere to.

Anyone have a recommendation on what to use for jute between the carpet and sound deadening material (I plan to use KilMat)?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#319 ·
nribs said:
DE80q said:
Like I said on the other site, please use a wire wheel in a drill. If you've seen my coupe thread, than you've seen the damage you can do even with that. I went from a dime sized hole, to Swiss cheese with a little scraping and a wire wheel in a drill.
Can you share a link to your coupe thread? TIA
Here's a link to Dave's CQ thread on MG

https://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php ... 520fb2828d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
#322 ·
I'm still curious what might have caused that, i've not seen a floor pan on any car like that. Do you know if the heater matrix ever went on the car?

Dry ice is also good for removing glues/sound deadning from what i've heard. I've yet to give it a go myself.
 
#323 ·
Pete82 said:
I'm still curious what might have caused that, i've not seen a floor pan on any car like that. Do you know if the heater matrix ever went on the car?

Dry ice is also good for removing glues/sound deadning from what i've heard. I've yet to give it a go myself.
Heater core never had issues in the 10 years since I bought it. My guess is that it sat outside and the cowl or sunroof drains were clogged. There are stains on the air ducting that show a couple inches of water stood on the driver's side for a long time.

Heat gun and scraper seemed to work pretty well on the sound mat.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#324 ·
I had a little time in the garage tonight, but not enough to really get much done. So, I started to look at the clearance issues I am going to have with my euro non-S2/V6 front bumper and the S2 intercooler. I've heard mixed opinions on whether it can be done and most say go with an S2/V6 bumper and it'll fit without issues. But that's easier said than done. Supplies are short and prices are really high, when you include shipping.

If (and it's a big if) I were to try and trim my current bumper, it looks like I would have to remove 3 of the 6 lower grill support braces and a whole bunch of the parts of the bumper that surrounds the lower grills. And I would have to make the middle section of the lower grills much thinner (front to back depth). Does anyone have pics of this bumper after trimming to fit in front of the S2 intercooler?

I really hate the thought of cutting up a euro bumper that is in pretty good shape. What would you guys do?



 
Top