JBD's Project CQ - Merging the 7A & 3B Harnesses :: motorgeek.com

varia · **Posted:** Mon Feb 15, 2021 6:31 pm

jbrentd wrote:

Just to clarify, I’m using the original wiring as a trigger for the 70amp relay. Using new, heavier gauge wiring for the high speed between the battery/fuse/relay/fan.

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that will do it.

jbrentd · **Posted:** Sat Feb 27, 2021 3:42 pm

Dealing with more BS not related to the swap...rust on the door sills this time. I forgot to take pics before I started. The before pictures are from 2014, so it had gotten worse since then.

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sun Feb 28, 2021 6:02 pm

There used to be a guy on the S2Forum who made carbon fiber door sills. Does anyone know if those are still an option?

Spent some time today to continue cleaning the engine bay. Gonna hit it with a fresh coat of pearl before the 3B goes in.

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varia · **Posted:** Sun Feb 28, 2021 9:24 pm

Aron used to make it, but not anymore

Speedyurs4 · **Joined:** Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:48 am **Posts:** 582

jbrentd wrote:

There used to be a guy on the S2Forum who made carbon fiber door sills. Does anyone know if those are still an option?

Spent some time today to continue cleaning the engine bay. Gonna hit it with a fresh coat of pearl before the 3B goes in.

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Looks great.

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Mon Mar 01, 2021 9:00 am

varia wrote:

Aron used to make it, but not anymore

I knew I should have pulled the trigger way back then.

Speedyurs4 wrote:

Looks great.

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Thanks!

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Fbatwork · **Joined:** Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:42 am **Posts:** 281

Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don’t think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I’ve used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Tue Mar 02, 2021 8:56 am

Fbatwork wrote:

Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don’t think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I’ve used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks for that...I will look into using them. I would think a custom cut sheet of 12x36 would be sufficient for both sides. When you cut the sheets, is there anything special to do to the edges?

Fbatwork · **Joined:** Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:42 am **Posts:** 281

jbrentd wrote:

Fbatwork wrote:

Engine bay looks great!! Unfortunately I don’t think anyone is making the carbon door sills anymore.

I’ve used these guys for Carbon fiber quite a bit - Their veneer is nice and I think that it would work very well for sills (this is what I will likely do if I ever ding my current carbon door sills...

The adhesive is good - would likely be a two person job and may actually want to remove the doors but it will roll quite tightly.

https://dragonplate.com/Twill-Weave-Car ... er-48-x-96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks for that...I will look into using them. I would think a custom cut sheet of 12x36 would be sufficient for both sides. When you cut the sheets, is there anything special to do to the edges?

For a thinner veneer you can use a good pair of scissors or a razor / utility knife. For frays I trim any outlier strands and then use a clear lacquer to reseal the edge.

Size would depend on how much you want to cover - my sills cover the entire opening so they are 48” long.

jbrentd · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2021 2:35 pm

Decided to make a run to a local junkyard that had a cabriolet, just to see if there was anything worth grabbing. Glad I did because it had a good belly pan and a few other things I brought home. Didn’t really need the B4 hood stuff, but figured it was worth the effort since it was “all you can fit on a wheel barrel for $80” day.

I should have grabbed the window regulators, brake booster and few other things.

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varia · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2021 10:25 pm

nice score especially for that price !!!

jbrentd · **Posted:** Fri Mar 19, 2021 1:10 pm

Engine bay touch up is done. Man, that was a tone of work...do not want to do that again.

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 04, 2021 1:36 pm

Got some time today to put some parts back on. Was good to get some garage therapy time.

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:28 am

Yeaterday, I bled the new master cylinder, connected the hardlines, ABS pump, booster, rack, stabilizer, and tie rods. Also spent way too long fumbling with the battery cable grommet.

I’m trying to figure out where to cut the fuel tank vent line that goes to the evap canister. I am switching to an evap canister that goes in the fender. I think I might just cut it down low where it turns up in to the engine bay and run a rubber fuel hose to the evap.

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varia · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:27 am

You can go straight up a bit with the hard line and make the connection then go out to the fender-well

Attachment:

carbon.jpg [ 223.6 KiB | Viewed 272 times ]

jbrentd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2021 4:41 pm

varia wrote:

You can go straight up a bit with the hard line and make the connection then go out to the fender-well

Attachment:

carbon.jpg

Thanks Chris!

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:23 pm

More stuff making its way back on today. 3B wiring harness and what’s left of the 7A wiring harness, coil, bomb, washer tank, hydraulic fluid reservoir, new hood release cable.

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sun Apr 18, 2021 2:11 pm

Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

I also attempted to make a set of rubber flaps that go in the fender well around the tie rods. I think they turned out okay.

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Fbatwork · **Joined:** Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:42 am **Posts:** 281

Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 19, 2021 6:57 am

Fbatwork wrote:

Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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Thanks. I used this stuff, along with hole punches, rivets, and some plastic retainers.

NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/16" (.062") Thick x 11.8" Wide x 47" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G5211B6/re ... UTF8&psc=1

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Berserker · **Posted:** Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:13 am

jbrentd wrote:

Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

Positive post on the fan is the one with the big honking insulator on it. The one that's in contact with the body of the fan is ground/negative.

jbrentd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:37 am

Berserker wrote:

jbrentd wrote:

Made a bracket for and mounted my fan resistor pack. Also got most of the fan wiring done. Does anyone know which post on the 500W fan motor is positive?

Positive post on the fan is the one with the big honking insulator on it. The one that's in contact with the body of the fan is ground/negative.

Thanks, that’s what I thought, but didn’t want to assume.

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Fbatwork · **Joined:** Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:42 am **Posts:** 281

jbrentd wrote:

Fbatwork wrote:

Flaps look great, what did you use for material?

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Thanks. I used this stuff, along with hole punches, rivets, and some plastic retainers.

NABOWAN Solid Rubber Sheets,Strips,Rolls 1/16" (.062") Thick x 11.8" Wide x 47" Long Neoprene Rubber Mat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G5211B6/re ... UTF8&psc=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

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Thanks

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jbrentd · **Posted:** Sat Apr 24, 2021 8:35 am

Anybody see an issue with using this for my chassis ground on my battery relocation? It’s an m12 to m10 stud screwed in to captive nut on the frame rail for where the old procon10 bracket be used to be. I would shorten the m10 side so that it doesn’t stick out so far.

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Fbatwork · **Joined:** Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:42 am **Posts:** 281

Looks like it should work well.

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JBD's Project CQ - Merging the 7A & 3B Harnesses

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