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Audi UR Quattro Rally Build

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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 9:58 pm 
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I really enjoy your updates and solutions!!

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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 7:25 am 
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Fbatwork wrote:
I really enjoy your updates and solutions!!


Thanks you. That's great to hear :)

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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2021 9:08 am 
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Solid modeling was the major CAD advancement made in the 1980s. Significant software offerings included the well-known 2D system known as “AutoCAD.” We’ve been doing a lot of Auto-CAD ourselves lately but the more grassroots Cardboard Aided Design versus the Computer Aided Design you might be more familiar with. Most of what we are cadding is to make templates for a bunch of parts we need to fabricate most of which involve welding.

We started with the simple stuff; the foot rests. Yes, you can buy generic ones which work just fine but, you know, we saw that Group B restoration build and now we want those, or as near as we can “reasonably” make.

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And the driver’s dead pedal:

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We may yet find something from Rennline’s catalog that’s fits the bill. For instance, this is our Rennline 911 footrest. Pretty close, eh?

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Regardless, we’ll need a bracket. So we made a template:

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Creature comforts next. Door cards.

Unfortunately, there are no real precedents for door cards for a Group B Quattro as they used molded Kevlar doors that were essentially hollowed out. We’re not doing that. So, what to do? Fortunately, the stock Quattro door is pretty flat, apart from a small gap we made a patch panel for, so it looks like a flat panel of some sort will attach easily enough. We just have to come up with a shape, a material, some way to attach them and cut outs for door handles, window winders and door pulls. How hard could it be?

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First we covered one door in masking tape. Then we drew around the periphery with a Sharpie and marked all the holes. Next, after a mug of proper tea and some Hobnobs to steady our nerves, we carefully peeled it off the door and stuck it onto a sheet of corrugated cardboard scavenged from a Corbeau seat box. Yep, same as our skid plate. Good stuff.

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Then cut it out and cut it up.

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Surprisingly, it actually fit so we dug out the door handle bezels and temporary held it in place with some M8 bolts pushed into the original plastic fasteners that miraculously are still mostly present. Just needs some sort of door pull. We’ll get back to you on that.

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Now full of confidence with our auto-CAD prowess we decided to take on a much more challenging project: Mud flaps! You’re probably thinking “who welds on their mud flaps?”. Well, not us, but the ones on our role model had quite substantial brackets welded to the body and we thought we could mimic those pretty closely. Plus, brackets!

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The fronts seemed the most straightforward so we started there. Break out the template gauge.

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Fortunately, the car sits very level on its pin stands thanks to TRF, so we just used a small spirit level to make sure the bottom of the bracket is level and parallel to the ground. In our experience this is critically important with mud flaps as if they are even slightly off it will ruin the whole look of the car. Rally cars are principally mud flap display devices after all. OK, we may have lost the plot a bit but it makes us happy.

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Now for the tricky bit; the rears. Still easy to keep level but, because they don’t line up with the end of the rocker panel like the fronts, a little harder to keep the same distance from the wheel arch and perpendicular to the centerline of the car. We tried though, really hard

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A bit more profile gauge and scissor action and we had one side done. Unfortunately, both sides are not the same on the rear so we had twice as much work to do at this end of the car.

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Bet you can’t wait to see what other auto cadding shenanigans we get up to next. And what about those door pulls?

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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2021 7:19 am 
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Time For Proper Mud Flaps - With the mud flap brackets cadded, it was all we could do to resist cadding the mud flaps themselves. Actually, we couldn’t resist. Well, who could?

First, we started with something that isn’t present on the Group B resto we now seem to be trying to emulate in infinite detail: mid-rocker mud flaps (MRMFs), for want of a better term. What are those and why are you installing them? You may ask, Well, here’s an example that seems to only have been used on some of the David Sutton built cars in the UK.

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It looks like it was used to mask a dodgy transition from the wide rear fenders to the rocker panel (sill in the UK). Well, that’s what we’re going to use ours for anyway as we have this going on due to, well, we’re not sure why. Maybe because we bought the cheap body kit.

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Looks like it was almost designed for a mid-mud-flap (MMF?), don’t you think? So this is what we came up with. Of course, we also cadded a bracket for it. More welding required.

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This gave us the confidence to tackle the proper mud flaps (PMFs). Incidentally, we think we are going to use Sparco mud flaps in white as they look to be about the same size as the works ones at about 11” x 19” (that’s 0.002 x 0.004 football fields in American units), are available in white, are cheap and thin enough to fit between the door and the front fender. We also use them on our rally 911 but in portrait orientation. On this car they will be in landscape orientation which is why we measure them in football fields. On the 911 they are 0.09x0.16 stories. We are not using aircraft carriers as a unit of measurement on this car; that would be ridiculous. First attempt seemed too wide.

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So we lopped off 2”.

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And are now much happier. They are now sitting about an inch inboard from the widest part of the fender (top) whereas before they were about an inch outboard. One could argue, on technical grounds, that they should be level with the widest part of the fender but we are happy with this result. Incidentally, it was quite difficult to get them lined up front to back. Like being level, we think it will be an important detail once the car is finished and took quite a bit of measuring and back and forth to achieve so we hope we are right.

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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2021 9:26 am 
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I sprinkle rubber on my Cherios

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Great update, based on your results, vs mine I am using an older version of CAD!! May need to upgrade my cardboard, sharpen my pencil and get better tape!!

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1991 Audi Quattro Coupe eS2


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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2021 10:01 am 
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Fbatwork wrote:
Great update, based on your results, vs mine I am using an older version of CAD!! May need to upgrade my cardboard, sharpen my pencil and get better tape!!


Good tape is key. LOL

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TIM Team Illuminata Motorsport
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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2021 11:41 am 
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I sprinkle rubber on my Cherios

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Blue tape it is then! All kidding aside, great update!


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2003 Audi RS6
1991 Audi Quattro Coupe eS2


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 Post subject: Re: Audi UR Quattro Rally Build
PostPosted: Thu May 13, 2021 6:16 am 
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We took a break from cardboard engineering and decided it was time to grill, or attach the grill. This concoction of aluminium slats has been on and off the car for a while but, until now has never really been fully integrated into the front of the car. Sadly, we’ve just been wedging in in there and taking pictures of it. Ultimately it needs to be attached to the upper intercooler support in such a way that the two components can be removed as one. It also needs to be black eventually and we are thinking of having it anodized. Any thoughts on that? Also, part of this project is to attach the intercooler to the intercooler support bar. That way it will, er, support it.

The first thing to do was make it fit. Right now, the top plate is just wedged between the intercooler and the upper support bar but it didn’t go in far enough and was the wrong height. It also wasn’t parallel with the bumper, didn’t line up with headlight bezels and didn’t seem level! And we thought this would be simple.

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So, the first thing we did was remove some excess material from the back of the top plate.

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And then clamped it to the upper support bar and asses what we had to play with. The bolt head will be to attach the intercooler later. Stop getting ahead of yourself.

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With a little bit of measuring, we determined that the bumper was level but a little warped and that the right side (left in the pics) headlight bezel was a little inboard. Otherwise, it looked good. We could have riveted the bar to the grill at this point but are not sure if we want the bar to also be anodized black so clamps will suffice for now. So how to fix the uneven bumper? We’ll tell you next time. (unless we fail)

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