I found this, referencing p/n N0202621 for that hose. Looks like ECS has it.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/169945.phtml

 

For the turbo coolant return hose, it's just a straight piece, so rather than the dealer for another rubber one, I think it should be possible to find a length of generic silicone hose.

Best to use the dealer hose it is special high temp rubber hose.

Would you have the part number for that hose? I just got Vagcat to finally work for me, but it only shows the MC hose.

 

For the turbo coolant return hose, it's just a straight piece, so rather than the dealer for another rubber one, I think it should be possible to find a length of generic silicone hose.

Best to use the dealer hose it is special high temp rubber hose.

 

The hoses you are comparing silicone to oem both silicone versions are for a 10v car. Picture on the 034 website for the 20v hose kit shows the 10v versions too but as you found they are not the same. Hose under the intake is the turbo coolant return and is not part the 034 kit best to get the OEM stuff from the dealer when it comes to that.

You're saying that the 034 kit has the 10v hose in the 20v kit by mistake? I just compared the photos between the 10v and 20v kit and they do look like all the same hoses with the exception that the 20v kit includes the auxiliary radiator hoses. Hopefully they do have the correct hose and will fix me up as well as update their 20v kit and website photo.

It's a sonofabitch to get all the hoses swapped. Aside from having to disassemble almost the whole car (front end, wiper cowl, wheelwell liner, pull a tranny bolt for the heater pipe, etc), the silicone hoses are thicker-walled than the rubber ones, so feeding them through the radiator air shroud and firewall is a very Audi-esque challenge. That's not even including not being able to get the small heater valve hoses on at all.

I had to call it a day without getting the heater valve plumbed in, and I couldn't get the U-shaped hose from the radiator to the thermostat housing on either. My hands are raw and I'm starting to ache. I did get all the rest of the hoses installed, but my bumper/grill/intercooler is still off for the time being. I have the PS pump unbolted to give room, and the pivot bolt needs the IC out of the way to be installed.

For the turbo coolant return hose, it's just a straight piece, so rather than the dealer for another rubber one, I think it should be possible to find a length of generic silicone hose.

 

The hoses you are comparing silicone to oem both silicone versions are for a 10v car. Picture on the 034 website for the 20v hose kit shows the 10v versions too but as you found they are not the same. Hose under the intake is the turbo coolant return and is not part the 034 kit best to get the OEM stuff from the dealer when it comes to that.

 

I'm in the process of installing the rest of my 034 silicone coolant hose kit and ran into some snags so I have some questions.

1. The hose from the afterrun coolant pump to the metal pipe is very different. The one I have pictured here next to the original one is what I assume might be the intended replacement, by process of elimination.

2. The hose that appears to be for the connection between the heater valve and the flange at the back of the block is impossible to get on. The I.D. is way too tight for me to slip it over the nipple. It seems like it's undersized.

3. In my kit I didn't find a hose to replace the narrow one that goes from the barbed banjo fitting on the water manifold to the pipe that goes around the front of the head to the turbo. I don't know if that how is missing or for some reason it's not included in the kit even though it's a coolant hose.

 

Normal turbo chatter from running a cone filter.

 

It's the above-pictured APR R1 bypass valve, plumbed in as stock, but I have a cone filter on the MAF sensor in lieu of the airbox, so it's bypassing just after the MAF and cone in front of the turbo. It's no doubt louder than it would be if the airbox was in.

 

seems like DV to me.

 

Here's an impromptu cell phone video my buddy took that shows how the bypass valve sounds at the higher boost levels.

The vid isn't the greatest, but it's a bit better than me trying to describe the sound in words.

 

I was having a stumble under load, so I started installing some of the silicone hoses I got from 034. I replaced the breather hose, which was in pieces, the hoses for the throttle body, michelin man at IC outlet, and upper radiator hose.

Took it for a drive and it pulls solidly. My bypass valve is making a completely different sound than it ever has before. When shifting under high boost, it has a chattery-sounding noise that almost sounds like the Group B Quattros did. (Kinda like this, but not exactly.) Before, and even now when it's only around 10-12psi, it was more of a woosh sound with a bit of a whistle, but no chatter at all.

I didn't notice my clutch slipping tonight, but what I did notice is that I need to tighten up my driveline, like the diff/trans/motor mounts and exhaust hangers. Another thing I'd like to get around to is changing the trans fluid.

 

I considered the H valve and almost ordered it, but ultimately since I didn't have enough info about which valve my chipset expected, but believe it was supposedly set up with the 3B valve in mind, I went with the J. My concern was that when the 1.8t guys change valves for increases in boost, the H valve would sometimes cause limp home mode, while the J would not. I felt that by going with the J instead of the H, I could avoid the potential for similar limp home / overboost issues.

My J valve is oriented with the connector to the passenger fender, and is secured by the intake boot like the one I took out. I believe it to be stock orientation and stock valve.

Do the Motronic ECUs adapt to things like N75 sensor response time? Or just ECU PT map readings?

 

I assume you have the WGFV oriented correctly? Personally I would choose the H valve over the stock J valve as it's the fastest responding out all the N75's note the H valve mounts 180* of the stock J valve on the 3B and is no longer secured by the intake boot. ECS sells their "race" valve which is an H valve but I checked the price on it recently and it has nearly doubled from when I ordered one over last summer it was only $75 then now it's $140 I'm sure it'll be on sale again at some point.

 

Your current RS2 chipset is for 3B? You didn't switch over to AAN parts?

Yes, I'm running the normal 3B stuff in that regard, so 3B ECU (no overboost table), physical ignition distributor, stock 3B fuel pressure regulator, etc.

My ECU mods less common than the typical 3B mods, because it's running a 3.0bar PT instead of the 2.5bar to which 3B's are usually upgraded (stock is 2.0bar, you probably know).

"Upgrading" to AAN engine management is a possibility as well, such as swapping the ECU and some other stuff that may be involved, perhaps short of a harness swap. But for the trouble/money, I think I'd rather pursue the possibility of a RIP Chip.

 

Your current RS2 chipset is for 3B? You didn't switch over to AAN parts?

 

Also, I was a little disappointed when I first got the car to start making bigger boost, when I realized the clutch was slipping, at least in fifth gear. So I may be looking at replacing the clutch. I don't think I'll necessarily be going much bigger in the mods on this car (different turbo/EM, etc.), but could possibly put in stronger rods and do mild head port job "if" my stock rods would be at risk by maxing out whatever potential exists with the other hardware I have.

I'm also interested in the possibility of getting an 034 RIP Chip, which has been mentioned is something that could be developed for the 3B. I understand there may be some form factor issues with that application, such as not having room in the original ECU case or something of that nature for the necessary mods, but it is otherwise possible.

 

My current focus on the car, aside from reassembling my driver door panel after replacing the window regulator and maybe changing the tranny fluid, is to make sure I'm not overboosting.

I just replaced my N75 WGFV and I'm finally feeling extra boost, but I need to make sure my setup is compatible with itself, meaning my fueling is ample and I'm not overspinning the turbo, etc.

What I'm seeing is that my boost spikes to like 28psi or so, maybe even more, and then maybe settles down to the 22psi range or so, maybe more. It's a bit hard to really nail down what's happening, because I'm on the street and not really able to open it up, plus I'm scare to push it without knowing my air/fuel ratio and such. I'm probably going to be trying to get a wideband O2 sensor sooner than later to see where I'm at, most recently a bit interested in the Zeitonix stuff.

I don't know that I'm all that comfortable seeing the boost gauge spike up near 30psi as it is like that, and I don't know if that's the intent of the chipset I'm running. I don't know much about it, other than my particular injectors and turbo were in mind when it was mapped independently from my car.

What I'm thinking is that I ought to go back to the stock WG spring, because the mapping may not be expecting the boost to come on so quickly from the stronger spring I've got in it. It's not clear to me whether the mapped boost of the Motronic is a combination of expected duty cycle and feedback via the PT or just pure closed loop with no target duty cycle for the N75 valve. By the way, the N75 valve that I just put in is a "J" version, like what was supposedly original to the 3B.

So I'm going to swap in the standard WG spring and see if that has any effect on the boost characteristics.

 

Hey, switching gears from my pearl 200q20v to the gray one that I was at one time offering for sale, I've decided to keep the gray one and put my various parts on it that I have picked up over the years. I still have the pearl 200q20v, it still doesn't run, and I'll keep it as a spare or if I ever get around to it before I die I'll sort it as another working car in the stable. It has a black interior with urS6 front seats and 3-spoke sport steering wheel that aren't installed, and is sitting on Audi OEM BBS CH's on stock suspension.

Here's what's on or will be on the gray car at this time:
RS2 factory EM, ceramic coated
RS2 turbo
37 or 38 lb/hr Racetronix injectors (I don't remember which)
Iroz Motorsport downpipe w/extra bungs for wideband O2 and EGT
Stromung current gen
7A cams, intake and exhaust
1.8bar WG spring
modded ECU chipset w/3.0bar PT
APR R1 bypass valve, cone filter
034 silicone boost/coolant/breather hoses (not yet installed)
AAN windage tray (not yet installed)

19" ADR M-Classics on 225/35R19 Nitto NT555s
H&R 29800 springs
Bilstein struts
2Bennett camber plates
Apikol RSB (not yet installed)
Billzcat1 Turn 9 big red brake kit (not yet installed, can't find one bracket yet, need some rotor hat mounting hardware)
V8 torsen rear diff (not yet installed)

European headlights, smoked turn signals and side markers
urS4 instrument cluster (not yet installed)
3-spoke sport steering wheel (not yet installed)
short shifter (not yet installed, can't remember the MFG)
V8 taillights (not yet installed)

Issue/to-do list (everything I can thing of):
rear sway bar
rear speakers
antenna adapter
oil leak
silicone hose install
tint
rear view mirror
urS4 gauges
sport steering wheel
rear brake cables
big brakes
V8 taillights
V8 diff
subwoofers
short shifter
fix sunroof
relay fuel pump
resolder defroster lead
reattach c-pillar trim

 

whats the red thing in the back ground? cool color. red i know, but cool non the less.

Through the open 200q20v doors? That's one of the two Coupe GTs I have providing shade for the weeds. The visible one is a bit of a basket case that I took in as a orphan.

The one just past it is my neglected former daily driver from a while back. It's on H&R/Boge with 17" TSW Revos, a rear disc conversion, drilled front rotors, H4/H1 eurolights, Schrick 272 cam and Borla muffler with stainless oval Passat tip. I never installed the 4kq 5-3-1 exhaust manifold that I had a cracked welded in, or the larger 4kq sway bar.

My "plan" for those two is to put into the nicer one the 10vt I originally had planned for my 4kq (not pictured, lol) before I changed the plan to a homemade 20vt, before I changed the plan to a 3B I bought, before I changed the recipient to a CQ I bought, before I got distracted by the 200q20v^4.

That 10vt is an MC-1 with a new OEM 2-piece em, cryo treated and Jet-Hot 2k ceramic coated in blue and cryo treated and ceramic coated K24, with a Natrix-chipped MAC-11 running ignition and a Natrix-assembled Megasquirt for fuel, with a Saab APC providing parallel boost control limitation. I have a 5kt fwd 5 speed for the Coupe GT if it ever comes together, but being an open diff I would want to get a Phantom Grip for it, or maybe do the mods to install one of the V8 diffs I got from Scottmandu (which aren't for sale, btw, so don't feel bad).

If I put the 10vt into the nicer Coupe GT, then I can take the 10v n/a motor from that one and get the crappier one running so I can sell it for a few hundred bucks and spare it from the wrecking yard. OR, maybe I can put in the displaced 7A motor from my CQ, which will give me something to put the impulse-bought H4/H1 eurolights that I don't need into. I have another rear disc axle I could install and build a different CGT variant. I've got more imagination than energy. I won't say the other comparison that seems appropriate, knock on wood that it is.

I could "unwind" the project scope creep and go back to putting the 10vt into the 4kq, and then 7A the nicer CGT, but I have a complete 3B motor/harness/ecu, an AAN harness/ecu, and the complete 7A that I could build a 20vt out of, so I may as well lean toward more 20vt's since they're available.

 

whats the red thing in the back ground? cool color. red i know, but cool non the less.

 

Im glad to see you have begun the ressurection Kenneth....and glad I could help in some way by getting that rear diff off you

Yes, ditto for sure. I'm glad the diff could go to someone who could use it. :drive: Lord knows I don't need any extra dormant car parts laying around!

It's funny but when I got the Samcos on and realized that I had no good BPV since I took it off to use on the gray car, I did a little search to see what was on the market and the diaphragm-based APR R1 seemed like a good alternative to the many piston-based ones.

Unfortunately it was two weeks after every the spring APR sale at every dealer that was archived in all the forums, so I felt like I missed the boat. Full retail is anathema to me, and so is buying replacement stock stuff instead of upgrading, so I just set that obstacle aside for the time being.

Then last night I came across a Craiglist post from a guy just a few miles from here with one for sale that was only used for a month before he went with a Eurojet Grenade one, so I was able to pick it up for about $40 cheaper than I could find anywhere. It looks huge in all the pics online, but in real life it's the same size as a Bosch valve.

The grenade one is pretty cool looking, but ultimately I think it's just another piston valve and I am buying into the R1 hype.

On the one hand I thought I need to be saving money with all this recession business (rather than buying a mod for a current yard ornament), but then I realized that selling the diff pretty much covered the upgrade cost compared to a stock BPV. Sweet!

I didn't mention the rest of what this car will be getting. Either before or after it runs, because IT WILL run, I have the following to put on:

The H&R 29800s and Bilstein struts in G60-based strut housings (has UFOs on it now) w/996tt calipers and 993tt rotor rings and Billzcat1 hats and brackets, V8 rear diff, cryo-treated and Jet-Hot ceramic coated RS2 EM and RS2 turbo, 38lb/hr injectors, custom chipset, and either the same 18" OZs or OEM 17" Boleros or maybe 19" ADR M-Classics if my buddy falls through on buying the gray 200q20v package we discussed.

Down the road I would like to put a rear sway bar on it, a Stromung or similar 3" exhaust, and some nice in car entertainment. At that point I will have fulfilled whatever to-do list I had conceived for the car, and it would change from a project car to just a car for comfortable longer trips. Well, maybe I would upgrade the IC, but only after the other cars are "complete." If I got really bored I would try an HID conversion and experiment with led taillights, but probably not.

 

Im glad to see you have begun the ressurection Kenneth....and glad I could help in some way by getting that rear diff off you