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It's still sunk down WAY more than Dad's '98 with 'bags. Granted, I think the 4WD version is lower to begin with, and it definitely weighs more.

Also looks like you could stand to load your cars a couple feet back more. May as well try to get them more over the top of your trailer axles and remove some of the weight off of the trailer tongue. Or, try moving your weight dist chains one more link.

BTW, we had the 'bags installed in maybe 45min. They require an external air source, so it was greatly simplified.

Anyhoo, greatly interested in where the V8q project heads!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
OK so today I planed ongetting a few jobs done, A) Swap out RPM sensors in teh V8 to cure the rev issue, then put the new rear suspension in the TQA, then get the MIata put back into street mode :)

What actually hapened was I remembered somethign I had forgotten....Aude development engineers are sadists :bashtard: .

Swithcing the sensors was not actully too bad, the worst part was getting the damned plugs to plug back in. Didnt solve my not revving past 2.5k issue though...hmmmmm.. so what next? I blinked the codes again, and did all the output tests as well.

The RPM sensor still read as bad, the ISV also read bad. All the motor outputs were fine except for the ISV was a bit odd. Closer inspection revealed that there was no plug inside the boot on the ISV, someone had taken the insides of the plug and badly hacked them on. So I put a new plug on it (the joy of having lots of spare parts), and ran teh test again, still sounded a bit flakey so I pulled it off. It was gummed up so a good celan and it seems fine now. put it back on and fired up again - still wouldnt rev. When I pull the plug off the ISV and rev the car it stutters badly at 2.5K but will rev roughly up past there. Put the pug back on and its stuck at 2.5K again - so definatley part of the issue there somewhere. I flashed the codes again after clearing the memory and this time got the same codes plus a few more.

RMP sensor, ISV, Knock 1 and O2 sensor.

So I thought I would replace the O2, It was tough to get out and when I pulled it the threads were mashed in teh bung - doh. Fired it up again just to check and it still wont rev. Figured maybe the cats are blocked and I would have to pull the x-pipe anyway to fix the bung so 3 hours later i got the thing off :x what sort of retarded engineer would put bolts where you cant get anythign on them...an Audi one. Anyway, X-Pipe is off now and Damn those V8's are loud with just the manifolds :) ....... Still wont rev though so its not the cats.

So heres teh question - what are the chances of the used sensors I borrowed form mark being bad and being the root cause of my rev problem? I have a known good pair in my 5K motor that I pulled out but it was too late to swap them in tonight.

Could it be the O2?

I pulled all the plugs and they look OK, a bit black but nothing oily or anything odd.

Any pointers or Ideas form all you V8 experts would be appreciated.

Ill get the xpipe fixed this week and a new O2 to rule that out.

H
 
you should check the wiring diagrams to see if those sensors that are reading on the fault codes have a bad ground? There's a chance they all use the same grounding point which might be bad.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
a4kquattro said:
what about the sensors being flipped? I guess that would cause a no-start...
Yeah thats what I thought, not tried yet though. I replaced both of mine with 2 of yours figuring it was a good test, no change so I am thinking its not actually the rpm sensor. What does the RPM sensor read? a pin or teeth?

One evening this week I will probably try with my 2 from the 10VT just to be sure

H
 
timmmy said:
a4kquattro said:
what about the sensors being flipped? I guess that would cause a no-start...
Yeah thats what I thought, not tried yet though. I replaced both of mine with 2 of yours figuring it was a good test, no change so I am thinking its not actually the rpm sensor. What does the RPM sensor read? a pin or teeth?
Teeth.

The pin is to reference TDC (or a fixed number of degrees before it)

One evening this week I will probably try with my 2 from the 10VT just to be sure
Sounds like a plan, but I'd be surprised if the ones I lent you were bad..
 
look here: it says that the ignition controls all those faults. Well to some degree...
 
timmmy said:
a4kquattro said:
what about the sensors being flipped? I guess that would cause a no-start...
Yeah thats what I thought, not tried yet though. I replaced both of mine with 2 of yours figuring it was a good test, no change so I am thinking its not actually the rpm sensor. What does the RPM sensor read? a pin or teeth?

One evening this week I will probably try with my 2 from the 10VT just to be sure

H
The sensore functions are as followed with a nice little story...

Have you ever had a hot-start problem with your V8? You drive home in traffic, stop into the grocery store that is a block away from your house, grab a gallon of milk, come back out and the car won't start? Do you notice that the Tach doesn't bounce as you are cranking it (stays at zero)? You have a failing RPM Sensor! Have you ever had a problem where your V8 is driving along just fine, but when it warms up the engine dies? If you let it cool down it fires right back up and then dies again after you drive a few miles? You have a failing Ignition Timing Sensor!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Josh said:
look here: it says that the ignition controls all those faults. Well to some degree...
Nice image, not sure I follow though (dont have manuals yet).

I have a pair of spare ignition modules I could swap out too although I think it is probable something in the RPM sensor circuit, maybe the ground as you suggested previously.

H
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Ronald G Wainwright+ said:
timmmy said:
a4kquattro said:
what about the sensors being flipped? I guess that would cause a no-start...
Yeah thats what I thought, not tried yet though. I replaced both of mine with 2 of yours figuring it was a good test, no change so I am thinking its not actually the rpm sensor. What does the RPM sensor read? a pin or teeth?

One evening this week I will probably try with my 2 from the 10VT just to be sure

H
The sensore functions are as followed with a nice little story...

Have you ever had a hot-start problem with your V8? You drive home in traffic, stop into the grocery store that is a block away from your house, grab a gallon of milk, come back out and the car won't start? Do you notice that the Tach doesn't bounce as you are cranking it (stays at zero)? You have a failing RPM Sensor! Have you ever had a problem where your V8 is driving along just fine, but when it warms up the engine dies? If you let it cool down it fires right back up and then dies again after you drive a few miles? You have a failing Ignition Timing Sensor!
Hey Ron,

I seem to have the same problem hot or cold, its pretty constant really whihc makes me think its something electronic in the RPM or ignition circuit, although I suppose it could be a fuel pressure issue too. I did check the relays and pump function and all seems fine.

I would be surprised if 4 sensors would all be bad, maybe its something wrong with the teeth the sensor is reading?

H
 
Hayden, Pull the starter & manually turn the crank & check the flywheel teeth.

You know I new this sounded familiar but couldn't for the life of me find the knowledge in my mental Rolodex..but asking a few friends Jarred my recollection. Your good e-bay deal turns out to be a not so good deal.
You have some missing flywheel teeth for sure.
Now I got a suggestion. & I don't know if Marc used it or tossed it or what but the same symptoms were on the V8 that the motor came from that Marc has now. So I replaced the flywheel(ring gear) on it & all was fine. So if Marc still has the flywheel it's practically brand new.
Motor has to come out to change it.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Ronald G Wainwright+ said:
Hayden, Pull the starter & manually turn the crank & check the flywheel teeth.

You know I new this sounded familiar but couldn't for the life of me find the knowledge in my mental Rolodex..but asking a few friends Jarred my recollection. Your good e-bay deal turns out to be a not so good deal.
You have some missing flywheel teeth for sure.
Now I got a suggestion. & I don't know if Marc used it or tossed it or what but the same symptoms were on the V8 that the motor came from that Marc has now. So I replaced the flywheel(ring gear) on it & all was fine. So if Marc still has the flywheel it's practically brand new.
Motor has to come out to change it.
Thats one of my current fears :( , My blue wagon displayed lots of odd symptoms for a while and it turned out to be a bent, and then missing flywheel trigger.

I will continue to dig into it and one night this week I will get to my shop and do a few more tests, including the one you suggested.

If it does turn out to be flywheel related thats no big deal as I dont mind pulling the motor. Its not my daily driver after all :) and it will give me the chance to check things out in there.
 
Ron thanks for the nice little story about RPM sensor, I think that's what's going bad on my CQ...

Timmmy - nice BIG audi... :)
 
WAUG0806 said:
Ron thanks for the nice little story about RPM sensor, I think that's what's going bad on my CQ...
Yeah, the only thing I could have additionally added was..if your wife/girlfriend/mistress was in the car when the get a gallon of milk thing happened & she whines & complains about why you keep buying Audis cause there unpredictable bla bla bla... :frustrated: :lol:
 
Ronald G Wainwright+ said:
WAUG0806 said:
Ron thanks for the ................................ she whines & complains about why you keep buying Audis cause there unpredictable bla bla bla... :frustrated: :lol:
I tell her my next hobby is going to be strippers and crack when she gets tired of the Audi thing... :D
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
What .... you mean you dont do both already :slap:

No wonder I am so damned skint the whole time. Ill have to give up Audi's I suppose

:lol:
 
timmmy said:
What .... you mean you dont do both already :slap:

No wonder I am so damned skint the whole time. Ill have to give up Audi's I suppose

:lol:
Or do what I do..part out Audis on the side for that extra $$. Pleanty of $$ for whatever then :bashtard:
 
Ronald G Wainwright+ said:
timmmy said:
What .... you mean you dont do both already :slap:

No wonder I am so damned skint the whole time. Ill have to give up Audi's I suppose

:lol:
Or do what I do..part out Audis on the side for that extra $$. Pleanty of $$ for whatever then :bashtard:
Been thinkin' a little pimp action could help pay for new audi parts... then I'd need a V8 and one of them jewel encrusted chalises to drink my starbucks out of!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Hey get your own Ideas - that was mine :)
 
I thought the TDC sens. read the pin and the RPM sens. read the teeth? Is the car off when you get the RPM code? I have heard that it will give a RPM sens. faulty code when off, even if they are good, if that is true or makes any sense, I don't know :wtf: .

And oh ya, isn't there a hall snsor in the ign. dist.? IIRC mine had that with the little 3 pin plug dealie thats sometimes break and/or the wires break and come loose (on 5 cyls). Would that cause it to not rev like that?

Also I've heard some of the 16v vw's have a seal in the ign. dist. that fails and lets oil in.

*EDIT* sorry, I didn't see this second page...

I may have one of those ring gears if Marc doesn't. I'll have a look tomorrow.
 
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