As long as the trw or moog in this case control arms you got have the clear urethane boots I would keep them. The $35 moog's are not the same as the ones with the clear boots which are made in spain that are getting to be NLA.
MOOG K90697 and MOOG K90698 are what you want you do not want the moog RK series RK90697/8
FYI partsgeek only shows one side in stock for lemforder probably some old stock or something.
Yes Meyle is junk. You want real oem quality buy them at the dealer.

 

As long as the trw or moog in this case control arms you got have the clear urethane boots I would keep them. The $35 moog's are not the same as the ones with the clear boots which are made in spain that are getting to be NLA.
MOOG K90697 and MOOG K90698 are what you want you do not want the moog RK series RK90697/8
FYI partsgeek only shows one side in stock for lemforder probably some old stock or something.
Yes Meyle is junk. You want real oem quality buy them at the dealer.

Thank you for the response, no the try ones were not clear.

Do you by chance have the part numbers for audi control arms? I looked on jimellisaudiparts, and they don't show them. Last time I gave my dealer my VIN the parts guy claimed that it does not exist.

 

Hello,

TRW & Lemfoerder have deleted the 19mm control arm with part numbers 441 407 151A & 152A about a year ago, so almost no chance to get them anymore. Both were OE suppliers to Audi and had the best arms on the market (in case of quality and design).
Moog 19mm are ok regarding the casting, geometry, correct size of the ball from the knuckle (30mm), etc.
Moog 18mm ones are complete bullshit, as you will get two completely different parts left and right.
Meyle 19mm ones are too long, so you would ruin the the driveshaft´s CV joints and camber
Meyle 18mm ones (with clear boot) are correct in size & geometry

However, since you own a V8, all the above are incorrect, as the V8 has 441 407 151C & 152C.
You can use the ones with the "A" suffix, but the casting is slightly different at inner round shape half of the arm.
In fact on the "C" the diameter there ist about 22-23mm, whereas the other 18 & 19mm arms from the Type 44 will only have some 19-20mm - meaning the V8 arm is slightly thicker and more solid.

The point is, no aftermarket supplier is actually making a difference there and almost all of them only offer the "A" arm, but not the correct V8 arm ("C").
As far as i know, the V8 arm is only available at/from Audi directly, so be alarmed, when someone offers one arm for both vehicles with only one part number.

Picture shows the difference between Type 44 "A" arm with 19mm bolt (above) and V8 arm "C" with 19mm bolt.

Why not try to restore the OE control arms and renew the boot & inner bushing, instead of buying (incorrect) aftermarket parts?

Cheers,
Olli

 

What was the pn# on the moog boxes? Did the control arms say moog or trw? If they say TRW they should be just as good. But if they are the moog RK series probably not worth keeping since you can get those much cheaper.

441407151A or 441407151C and 441407152A or 441407152C just so you know there are cheaper online dealers than the one you mentioned.

 

What was the pn# on the moog boxes? Did the control arms say moog or trw? If they say TRW they should be just as good. But if they are the moog RK series probably not worth keeping since you can get those much cheaper.

441407151A or 441407151C and 441407152A or 441407152C just so you know there are cheaper online dealers than the one you mentioned.

Boxes were moog, but had TRW part numbers on them. AU-TC-7163 and AU-TC-7164
According to the site, these are for audi "A" part numbers. So these will not work for my audi?

Where do you guys source your online part? also, I searched both the A and C part numbers, they all appear to be around 450 a side, however, both letters are showing up as V8 and 200 compatible.

As I am switching to coilovers, I ended up taking the uprights off with the control arms attached, as I didn't want to damage them. Ended up having to cut the tie rod ends off, as I could not bang them out.

 

I probably would just keep the ones you got unless you already returned them. If you still have them post some pics I'd like to see what they look like.The ones ending in A will work you really have nothing to worry about.

 

I probably would just keep the ones you got unless you already returned them. If you still have them post some pics I'd like to see what they look like.The ones ending in A will work you really have nothing to worry about.

Thank you for the help!

FCP has i think the worlds best return policy, so I returned them, but will call them monday morning, and ask their technical person to take a look at them.
I don't want to be a dick, and order them again, only to return them.

I am a little disappointed in lemfoerder, they seem to still make the tie rods, but I can't seem to find them anywhere. And just when I thought it could not get any more expensive than Mercedes, all one must do is walk into an Audi dealership.

Looking at the moog website, the K90697 and K90698 will be replaced with CK.

oh so tempting, viewtopic.php?f=4&t=49060, yet so much

 

For tie rod ends I'd get trw's partsgeek has them. If you really want lemforder tie rod ends napa may be able to get them they are listed on their website.

 

Why not try to restore the OE control arms and renew the boot & inner bushing, instead of buying (incorrect) aftermarket parts?

Cheers,
Olli

Do you know a part # or source for just the boots?

thanks..

 

Why not try to restore the OE control arms and renew the boot & inner bushing, instead of buying (incorrect) aftermarket parts?

Cheers,
Olli

Do you know a part # or source for just the boots?

thanks..

You talking about the ball joint? I thought those were not rebuildable.

 

As long as the ball joint is free of play and no rust inside the housing or at the ball itself, you´ll be fine by just replacing the boot together with it´s snap rings.
If the grooved part of the joint (where the bolt goes along) has any rust build up, carefully removed it with some fine grid sandpaper.
Radius there is 10mm in order to match with the bolt.

Part numbers (only availabale at Audi directly here in Germany, no aftermarket supllier, though boot is made by TRW).

- boot = 431407377A
- upper ring = 431407384A
- lower ring = 431407383A

Will fit 18 & 19mm control arm for Type 44, V8 & C4 (though not listed for C4 in the ETKA).

Add some 5-6gr of black CV joint grease inside each boot, as stated in the factory drawing.

Did this with my control arms and several others and it worked fine.

Use "upgraded" M10 bolt to fasten the joint at the wheel housing -> part number N 0347784 (instead of N 0104457) + nut N 0211955. This will fit Audi 4000, 80/90, 100/200/5000/V8 & C4 - see also -> http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24392.phtml" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

New inner bushing:
Only part number 431407183A - 441407183 (V8 1992 >> NLA), both are the same anyway.
Clean any rust, repaint, then press new bushing in and you´ll be fine.

Cheers,
Olli

 

As long as the ball joint is free of play and no rust inside the housing or at the ball itself, you´ll be fine by just replacing the boot together with it´s snap rings.
If the grooved part of the joint (where the bolt goes along) has any rust build up, carefully removed it with some fine grid sandpaper.
Radius there is 10mm in order to match with the bolt.

Part numbers (only availabale at Audi directly here in Germany, no aftermarket supllier, though boot is made by TRW).

- boot = 431407377A
- upper ring = 431407384A
- lower ring = 431407383A

Got them loose from the suspension uprights.

Drivers side is oem, has Audi, VW, and ECO logo stamped on the back of the ball joint, black boot, but a meyle inner bushing, that is cracked. The ball joint moves freely.
Passenger side has no markings, but seems to be thinner than the drivers side. The boot is also of a clear material. A little notch when moving the ball around.

not sure if its worth the hassle rebuilding them when they are different, or just getting replacements, going to call FPC have them look to see if they sent me moog or trw arms

 

not sure if its worth the hassle rebuilding them when they are different

Not a good idea to use two different parts left and right as each manufacturer has it´s variation in size and geometry.
If the balls are loose, replacing both arms with parts from one manufacturer seems to be the only way to go.

Some aftermarket brands play a dirty trick as they make the ball joint smaller than the factory 30mm and use some non-hardened material and furthermore... found some balls with only 25mm or even less, plus restricted angle movement(!).
Asolutely a no-go when the knuckle hits the housing on the control arm. Factory arms allow angles of some 20-22° in any direction - aftermarket often 5 degrees less, which often results in fast wear of the ball joint.