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SteveAngry said:
audibeans said:
BTW, I found out the you need copper crush washers on both fittings on the fuel rail, otherwise.... spray city...:)
Did you use any thread sealer on the NPT side of the NPT/AN fitting to the rail?

Steve
Teflon tape, but I don't think it works well with fuel...anyway didn't seal it.
Also tried a rubber o-ring,....and the copper washer worked best.
 
My spring break is now actually. Ive been busy with other crap and am waiting for a few things for my car. Nate (Berserker) is gonna swing by on Saturday to help me with a few things, as well as tinker with the Urq.
Oh, also been helping my friend install a turbo kit on his Cavalier (lame).
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
More progress today:

Installed fuel pressure gauge:
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Powder coated the KH IM I got from DereK with Jim Bush's home kit . Thanks Derek and Jim.

Before:
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After:
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Wired the injectors:
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KH IM in. A little too glossy but it'll work:
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Assembled and ran the DB-37 cable from the engine bay to the passenger compartment:
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I also redid the banjo fitting at the fuel filter and ran some Firesleeve on some of the fuel lines near the exhaust manifold:
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That's it for now.

Steve
 
looks good! i saw a pic of a relay board in there somewhere, you really don't need it. on these cars that already have so many of the hook ups you need, it's a waste of time. you should be able to sell it for $80 assembled to someone on the MS forums.
 
Wow Man.

I lreally like the way you did the fuel rail, with the return line so it'd go between the IM and head instead of around the IM. I doubt you care much... but nice to see... I'll look to changing that next time around.

Project looks sweet. I love that car. :D
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
Thanks for all the positive comments guys.

Anyone have any info on where I can tap into 12v switched, tach, etc to power the Megasquirt ECU?

I'm already too far involved to ditch the relay board so I'm gonna use that.

I got the relay board mounted under the cowl so any sources for switched 12v, tach, etc that would be easily acessed from various sources in the engine compartment would be ideal.

Can I get the tach signal from the coil or hall sender? It can't be as easy as tapping into the negative side of the coil?

I really do not want to splice into the OEM ECU wiring harness unless I have too.

Thanks.

Steve
 
i was gonna suggest the oem wiring, cuz that's where i've done all of mine. you should be able to tap the neg side of the coil, but be sure that signal wire is well shielded.

12v switched, just use a test light and start testing all the old wires you're not using, or try any of the open terminals on the coil module. there should be two of them.

be sure your ECU is fused, injectors also and that the switched side of the relay for the injectors is on during cranking, actually that goes for powering the ecu. or...just power the ECU off the same relay as the injectors. get a 5 pin relay...or wire your existing relay to power/switch another relay....there's all kidns of ways to do it......

oh yeah, have you installed any mods to the board? any of the capacitor mods? if not, you need to run "the dave cap". a search on MS will find what you need. this cleans up the tach signal greatly, otherwise you'll have a miss under load that shows up in MS as tach spikes reading much as 10k rpm and the according flood of the engine.......
 
If you're doing squirt'n'spark the tach can be run from the negative lead on the coil....shouldn't need to be shielded or anything. Shielded wire from the DIYAutotune.com harness goes to the middle wire on the hall, then +12v switched to the positive side of coil and the fidle trigger wire or whatever you're using goes from pin 36 to negative side of coil.

Sam
 
SeStone said:
If you're doing squirt'n'spark the tach can be run from the negative lead on the coil....shouldn't need to be shielded or anything. Shielded wire from the DIYAutotune.com harness goes to the middle wire on the hall, then +12v switched to the positive side of coil and the fidle trigger wire or whatever you're using goes from pin 36 to negative side of coil.

Sam
he's doin fuel only buddy. :wink:
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Well, I had a small setback this weekend.

The BAD:

We primed the fuel system to check for leaks and I had 2 of them. One on a 45 degree AN fitting and the other at the fuel rail connection.

Meh. The AN fitting is actually leaking at the top of the swivel seal when you wiggle it. Nice. It wasn't even overtightend. Oh well, I'll order another fitting.

The fuel rail was seeping out the connection at the rail to the AN to NPT fitting. I used some sealant on there but it wasn't tight enough on one side.

Earlier while initially setting up the rail I looked at the AN to NPT fitting and it didn't appear flush with the rail end so I tightened it some more. It still wouldn't set flush like the other end. So I tightened it some more until it was flush.

Well that wasn't a good idea...

The UGLY:

After finding it leaking I tried to remove the fitting to reseal it.

Long story short: I stripped the pipe threads right off the AN to NPT fitting. Sigh. So after some fiddling Jim got the stripped threads out of the fuel rail.

The threads of the rail itself are chewed up a bit. We also noticed that the threads on the fuel rail didn't seem to be tapped deep enough. I assume that is why the NPT fitting wouldn't sit flush like the other side...?

So anyways, it looks like I need to drill out one side of the rail and retap it 3/8. There shouldn't be a problem with doing that?

The GOOD;

Got my TB linkage all set up. We modified a couple things and then Jim welded it up. So at least thats done.

I was hoping to get into the wiring aspect of MS last Saturday but got sidetracked by the fuel leak fiasco.

Stay tuned...

Steve
 
SteveAngry said:
Long story short: I stripped the pipe threads right off the AN to NPT fitting. Sigh. So after some fiddling Jim got the stripped threads out of the fuel rail.

The threads of the rail itself are chewed up a bit. We also noticed that the threads on the fuel rail didn't seem to be tapped deep enough. I assume that is why the NPT fitting wouldn't sit flush like the other side...?
i've seen this happen on a couple occasions now. we were able to rethread them and used lots of thread sealer. just don't tap it too far!!
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
And now for something completely different, I got some new brakes...

I found these on Audifans for $350...

A8 rotors:
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TT calipers with carriers:
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I know it's not the greatest upgrade out there but I needed new rotors anyways.

For $350 I got new Calipers, Carriers, Pagid pads, lines,and 312mm A8 rotors. I think it's a good deal.

I'll get them on after the MS project is finished.

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
birdmanmt said:
i've seen this happen on a couple occasions now. we were able to rethread them and used lots of thread sealer. just don't tap it too far!!
Cool, cool. Hopefully it goes well.

Otherwise it's another $115 drop in the bucket. :(

Steve
 
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